Northern's Sterlingsilber M52 Turbo 325is

[arch4ngel]

Awesome thread, great to see folks swapping the right way. Most seem to take short cuts or OBD1 swap needlessly.

Would you mind shedding some more light on the VSS correction?
I use the same flashing setup (ebay cable and chipster.no software) but my definition file must be outdated because I can't seem to find the VSS correction factor. I have a suspicion my vanos activation may be off and a couple of my readiness monitors aren't setting properly and I'm thinking they may be related.

Unfortunately romraider has been down for several days so I haven't been able to check.

[kensol20]

I haven't given any updates in a while...

I swapped out the TPS and it's still happening. I wiggled the TPS connector/wiring when the idle was freaking out and it stopped (I've done this multiple times now) so I think I have a TPS wiring issue.

I squeezed the female pins in the connector to make it grip better, but it didn't seem to make a difference, so I think there's an issue upstream somewhere.

I'm going to pull the ecu and check resistance on the TPS to ECU wires at some point to see what's going on, and try to snake a new wire through the harness and splice it in once I figure out what's wrong.

I made a new nylon bushing for the bottom of my ebay shifter to replace the worn chinese mystery plastic that came with it. I'll probably make a quick and dirty DSSR out of some square tube as well before I install them.

I bought $140+ worth of bulk dynamat to throw on the bulkhead behind the rear seat, trunk floor, and parcel shelf to try to cut down on drone in the cabin.

I also have a lead on a s2.79 and a 2.93 (maybe LSD, maybe not), and I'm going to try to grab both of them and build one to put in the car.


Last but not least, I sold the M3 shell, and now have no konis. Riding on bilsteins now and I hate it. The car doesn't go as low, and it bounces and handles bumps weird. Unfortunately, new konis end up being ~$950 to my door, or ~$1250 for koni race front dampers and TCK revalved mustang rears and I'm not that baller.

I'm surprised you don't like the ride with bilsteins. I'm running those and and h&rsprings

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[Northern]

I haven't given any updates in a while...

I swapped out the TPS and it's still happening. I wiggled the TPS connector/wiring when the idle was freaking out and it stopped (I've done this multiple times now) so I think I have a TPS wiring issue.

I squeezed the female pins in the connector to make it grip better, but it didn't seem to make a difference, so I think there's an issue upstream somewhere.

I'm going to pull the ecu and check resistance on the TPS to ECU wires at some point to see what's going on, and try to snake a new wire through the harness and splice it in once I figure out what's wrong.

I made a new nylon bushing for the bottom of my ebay shifter to replace the worn chinese mystery plastic that came with it. I'll probably make a quick and dirty DSSR out of some square tube as well before I install them.

I bought $140+ worth of bulk dynamat to throw on the bulkhead behind the rear seat, trunk floor, and parcel shelf to try to cut down on drone in the cabin.

I also have a lead on a s2.79 and a 2.93 (maybe LSD, maybe not), and I'm going to try to grab both of them and build one to put in the car.


Last but not least, I sold the M3 shell, and now have no konis. Riding on bilsteins now and I hate it. The car doesn't go as low, and it bounces and handles bumps weird. Unfortunately, new konis end up being ~$950 to my door, or ~$1250 for koni race front dampers and TCK revalved mustang rears and I'm not that baller.

[Northern]

How are you liking the clutch setup? I'm shopping for a new clutch and keep seeing good reviews for the fx (or f1) clutch but the price seems too good to be true.

If you're in 4th or 5th and come onto it down low(like 1500rpm or lower), it makes a little noise, and in neutral you'll definitely get some gear rattle (running ATF in the ZF, thicker fluid may lessen the rattle?)

The PP is just an E36 M3 Sachs HD plate, so the pedal is definitely heavier than stock, but I like it. The 6 puck disc isn't super on/off, there is a controllable friction zone, it's just smaller than the stock M20 was, so starting in first takes a while to re-learn.

100% buy a new OEM Throw out bearing and pilot bearing. The ones that come in the kit are complete trash. I had my pp/flywheel balanced at the machine shop and I think they took 1g off, they only drilled a ~1/4" hole maybe 1/4" deep before they were happy. I know people running them who didn't bother to have them balanced beforehand and they haven't had any issues either, so maybe I wasted my money.

[Gnarles]

How are you liking the clutch setup? I'm shopping for a new clutch and keep seeing good reviews for the fx (or f1) clutch but the price seems too good to be true.

[kensol20]

Nice looking good

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[Northern]

Some quick and dirty accel/decel with the gopro/internal mic. Everything for the external mic setup other than the skeleton case is here, hopefully it shows up before the car gets parked.

[Northern]

For the past few days I only seem to get TPS errors, and have really weird off-idle throttle control/response. It either wants to coast, or have enough throttle to accelerate. Going to swap out the TPS and see what happens.

Running M50 TB/Mani if that could somehow make a difference...

[328ijunkie]

I'm really not sure what types of signals ABS vs diff use. I don't know how you'd tap into the ABS to try to replicate what the E36 does, or if you'd need to condition that signal somehow. It's pretty easy to change the value in romraider to make up for the difference though, and I feel like they'll find the location of that value on the 328 ECU soon.

I just asked in the VSS thread on romraider, maybe someone already knows.

You basically have to put a 'conditioned' square wave into the ECU that has to be from *a cluster, E36/E30. Feeding directly from diff or ABS sensor will have erratic results.
OBD1 E36/and E30: Diff 9 tooth to cluster to ECU
OBD2 E36: 48 tooth ABS sensor to ABS computer to ECU.

Both have been converted to a square wave by their respective intermediaries.

:)

[Northern]

[Northern]

I also put my M3 shell up for sale, but I'm not going to bother posting it on r3v or anything because I'd rather a local sale.

It was imported from texas in the late 2000's and the PO installed a GC race kit on it, then rolled it coming off one of the bridges. He sold the S14/trans/ecu to pay to have the roof pulled out, and now the doors/windscreen fit like normal (but the roof is still very wrinkly forward of the B pillars.) Front end body parts are pretty rough, but salvagable. Very little rust on the chassis itself except surface rust in a few spots (dent puller spots, around the windscreen) I bought new tails, hood, gas door, mirrors, and a few other bits to replace stuff that was damaged.

It's outdoors on a concrete slab now with all the seams taped up so water can't get in.
I just don't have anywhere to put it, and I won't be able to touch it until other smaller projects are done and a garage is built, so we're talking 5+ years. In that time, I may not even be able to afford parts for it, and I have no idea of what to do for an engine.

I've also got 3 other cars, a decent sized home reno on the go, and a good amount of consumer debt. I would probably never get around to working on this car.

If I sold it (currently asking 6k, or 4k without GC kit or suspension) then I'd be able to pay off a lot of debt, stop looking like a hoarder with 2 cars in my back yard, and be able to build a deck/patio space.

One guy who seems interested just wrecked his e30 race car at the local track (He was punted into the woods and took a tree to the A pillar at ~140kph.) It seems like he'd take his engine (260whp M42 based race engine), driveline, and suspension from that car and install in this.

If that happens, I'm going to need to buy some new wheels for this car...

[Northern]

Apparently footage was usable, and not too bad for slapping the suction cup to the roof. I had everything set up for the thru-the-sunroof view that I've used in previous autox videos, but apparently that's no longer allowed.

[Northern]

Yeah the ticking is a 24v thing. Adding 1qt of oil above full seems to help some.

I was a little low on the first run(at the lower line). For some reason I never thought to check the oil level after the initial fill. With the smaller oil capacity of the AA oilpan, I probably should've made sure I was topped off or above.

It still made no difference for the lifter tick. Switching from a 10w40/20w50 blend of Castrol GTX to Liquimoly 5w40 next weekend. I wanted to run something cheap(AKA $10 jugs of M20 leftovers) through for ~500km to flush out any crud in the system.

I also really need to mount my dipstick, the tube comes out easier than the stick itself.


I didn't mention that part throttle was really messed up after each run. If I held the pedal at a certain spot, RPM would fluctuate a lot, and idle would stumble a bit. Maybe I'll go find an abandoned road to go flog the car a bit and see if I can replicate any of these codes again.

Edit: I still haven't been able to burn off the tank of 87 that was left over from last October, so maybe I really need to go for a drive and some 91.

[Gnarles]

Yeah the ticking is a 24v thing. Adding 1qt of oil above full seems to help some.

[Northern]

Forgot to mention, I pulled that M52/ZF/driveshaft with a semi-mangled harness and ECU from an e36 on Wednesday with the help of my buddy Scott. I went back thurs to throw everything in the mazda and then stripped it down to the long block on friday, so I have some more spare bits now if anything goes wrong...

And speaking of wrong, here's the most recent list of codes the car threw today during the first AutoX since the swap:

65 Cam Sensor - error not present, sporadic
12 TPS error present static error
83 CPS sporadic/not present
204 unknown error - "Idle speed not plausible" (had to look it up)
212 VANOS Jammed not present, sporadic

That's a nice array of weird codes, thanks.

I cleared them and we'll see if any come back. TPS was the only code actually present, the rest were just stored.

I also learned what lifter tick sounds like, apparently not so great, but at least it went away after ~10 mins of idling. Haven't really bothered to investigate it, but from what I hear, it's just a 24v thing.

Maybe videos incoming. I can't use the gopro app anymore, so I was shooting blind. hopefully my aim was decent.