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M30 OEM Turbo project

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    I always love OEM clamps. One thing I try to save from parts cars. They just plain work the best.
    1974.5 Jensen Healey : 2003 330i/5

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      Nice and tight. Have you tapped into the oil pan for turbo oil return lin?
      Projects Hartge,Alpina & AC Schnitzer Builds.http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=280601
      http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=227993
      http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=289362

      DSC04926 by Raul Salinas, on FlickrDSC03413 by Raul Salinas, on Flickr

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        Originally posted by e30m3s54turbo View Post
        Nice and tight. Have you tapped into the oil pan for turbo oil return lin?
        No, and honestly I may not do it that way. There is a gang blank on the block where the turbo drains on m106 motors. All I would need to do is pull the pan and drill out that gang, and I could run the stock 3"-long rubber tube right in to the block. I think it might be easier and a bit cheaper.

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          Its coming along nicely!
          Simon
          Current Cars:
          -1999 996.1 911 4/98 3.8L 6-Speed, 21st Century Beetle

          Make R3V Great Again -2020

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            I'm finally getting a bit closer on the boost controller mock-up. The problem I've been having is how to route the pressure hose from the intake (pre-throttle), through the boost controller, and on to the wastegate. The port I installed on the intake pipe has a 10-24 thread pitch, and the port on the wastegate is m8x1.0. Neither of those are common, and it's impossible to find barbed fittings that will plug straight in. So I've have to spend $50 with McMaster on some crazy expensive little adapters to make it all work. I love them for their selection but hate them for their prices (I also tried Fastenal, Tacoma Screw, MSC, etc but nobody had all the parts I needed)

            So it will look like this when done:

            intake tube -> threaded 10-24 insert - drilled out 10-24 to 10-32 thread adapter - 10-32 to 3/16" barbed hose fitting -> 3/16" hose -> manual boost controller -> 3/16" hose -> 3/16" barbed hose to 1/8NPT hose fitting -> 1/8NPT to m8x1.0 drilled out thread adapter

            Not the easiest route. If I could have bought the OEM tube, I could have cut off the end connections and just ran 3/16" hose everywhere I needed. Probably would have been cheaper too :/
            Last edited by CorvallisBMW; 01-28-2015, 08:39 AM.

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              Originally posted by slammin.e28 View Post
              I always love OEM clamps. One thing I try to save from parts cars. They just plain work the best.
              Seriously. It's nice to have a bucket of them sitting around.

              Originally posted by SpasticDwarf;n6449866
              Honestly I built it just to have a place to sit and listen to Hotline Bling on repeat.

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                I've never parted a car so I don't have a bunch laying around, but I should have a good supply now :) I think I ordered 20 in total.

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                  Had some time last night so I started stripping the old paint off the inter cooler

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                    M30 OEM Turbo project

                    I also got a replacement rear ashtray to replace the one that's been missing for the better part of 4 years haha



                    Additional things that were done: adding a bit of clearance to the radiator core support for my air filter. Quick hit with the angle grinder and touch-up paint gave me another 1" or so.

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                    After

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                      FUCK FUCK FUCK. I was putting the thread adapter for the oil temp sender in to the engine, and this happened:


                      It broke of clean, with the threads stuck in the head


                      It's probably because I'm an idiot and threaded the sensor in to the adapter before putting the adapter in to the head. Since the sensor is tapered thread, it probably put extra stress on the adapter and may have caused it to fail. So, what the fuck do I do? I'm stumped. I really, really don't want to pull the head to get it out, but I don't have many other ideas. Maybe a screw extractor?

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                        Originally posted by CorvallisBMW View Post
                        FUCK FUCK FUCK. I was putting the thread adapter for the oil temp sender in to the engine, and this happened:


                        It broke of clean, with the threads stuck in the head


                        It's probably because I'm an idiot and threaded the sensor in to the adapter before putting the adapter in to the head. Since the sensor is tapered thread, it probably put extra stress on the adapter and may have caused it to fail. So, what the fuck do I do? I'm stumped. I really, really don't want to pull the head to get it out, but I don't have many other ideas. Maybe a screw extractor?
                        would be my best guess is a screw extractor. can you get a pair of needle nose on it to spin it loose


                        1989 325is l 1984 euro 320i l 1970 2002 Racecar
                        1991 318i 4dr slick top


                        Euro spec 320i/Alpina B6 3.5 project(the never ending saga)
                        Vintage race car revival (2002 content)
                        Mtech 2 turbo restoration
                        Brilliantrot slick top "build"

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                          Try JB welding a bolt that's the same size as the inner diameter of the brass part that broke off and see if it'll come out that way?
                          '72 2002 pickup | '88 M5 | '89 330is | '89 M3 | '01 Z3M | '11 328xi-t

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                            you should be able to hammer a LARGE flat head that can wedge in there and turn out.

                            I've had this happen several times with aircompressor fittings and pliers never worked, but hammering a flat head in there always did the trick.


                            7speedshop.com

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                              or if no room-nipple extractor
                              http://www.plumbersurplus.com/Prod/P...tractor/229167


                              7speedshop.com

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                                Originally posted by ThatOneEuroE30 View Post
                                would be my best guess is a screw extractor. can you get a pair of needle nose on it to spin it loose
                                I've had a nice set of screw extractors on my Amazon wish list for several months now... I guess now is as good a time as any to order them.

                                Originally posted by Austin! View Post
                                Try JB welding a bolt that's the same size as the inner diameter of the brass part that broke off and see if it'll come out that way?
                                Not a bad idea. Hopefully I can find one that's a close fit.

                                Originally posted by kamotors View Post
                                you should be able to hammer a LARGE flat head that can wedge in there and turn out.

                                I've had this happen several times with aircompressor fittings and pliers never worked, but hammering a flat head in there always did the trick.
                                That might also work, if I have enough room. As you know it's tight back there against the firewall with the engine harness in the way.

                                Originally posted by kamotors View Post
                                Yes basically the same as a screw extractor. That will be my first method to try, if it doesn't work I'll go with the JB-welded bolt.

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