Subscribed! Keep up the good work. Loving the Lagunitas box ;D
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Bronzit E30 - OBDII S52 shaved bay - weekend/autox toy - Journey
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Originally posted by mattjewell View PostSubscribed! Keep up the good work. Loving the Lagunitas box ;D
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Nice work man! Awesome to see the progress! Keep it up.
1991 LS1 Swapped 318is
Instagram:
https://instagram.com/saltybeast/
LS Build Thread:
https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...s-e30-ls1-swap
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Originally posted by efficient View PostNice build. What are you using to hold up your motor when you took off the subframe?
And when I get tired (after 2 hours or so) I use an engine support bar ;)
like THIS it's very handy to have, I've used it a bunch of times on both cars. Even if you're just doing the oil pan gasket once, totally worth it
Originally posted by ian e30 318is View PostNice work man! Awesome to see the progress! Keep it up.
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Disassembled the oil pump to inspect it and replace the spring and o-ring. It has a very small score on the housing. Decided to use it anyway and if the oil pressure wasn't right, I would replace it (spoiler - oil pressure is fine).
Here you see the scoring on the housing
Parts arrive!!
Ready to start assembling
Crank is in, clearances are all good (verified with plastigauge)
Pistons ready
Making progress
"test fitting" parts to see what it will look like
Tack welded the oil pump nut
Timing cover installed
O-rings installed
It looks good!!
VAC baffle installed
DISASTER STRIKES
one of these little trouble makers decided to snap while I was tightening it. No I was not over torquing, I have a very good torque wrench for the low range torque values (like on that bolt). It never got even slightly tight, just snapped. Seemed like they had been removed and over tightened and weakened before...
It's the one in the center-left. I had to pull the head off and I got VERY lucky. It snapped flush with the timing cover (S**T). I VERY carefully was able to drill the end where it snapped flat. Then starting with a tiny drill bit drilled a tiny hole into it and used a small screw/bolt extractor and got it out. Then bought a set of brand new timing cover bolts, head bolts, head gasket and re o-ringed the block. I would highly suggest anyone rebuilding a motor to just replace those bolts - I don't know why I've never seen anyone mention that before.
Moving on. Recovered from the "fumble" and started installing cam trays and cams.
DONE
Used the n54 exhaust studs. Much easier to install and remove, plus they're a little shorter allowing for some much needed extra space for header install/disassembly
Got up early on a Saturday to attack the M20. Funny coincidence, after I posted a picture, facebook reminded me that on that exact date one year ago, I bought the e30 and took pictures of it in my driveway. It has come a long way since then!! (and spiraled WAY out of control - I don't mind)
More to come
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Originally posted by acolella76 View PostHell yah! Keep up the good work
Originally posted by marek|steezkal View PostThe paint color of the block looks so good. What color is it?
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Originally posted by pandaboo911 View PostWelding shirtless like a boss.
I like your covered work area, looks a lot more cozy than my garage. Did you use ARPs? Just wondering why you o-ringed the block.
Didn't use ARPs. I o-ringed it because I had the tool available, the motor out on a stand which makes it very easy, and I'll probably add boost at some point in time. I figured I can sneak the ARPs in there without pulling the head when the time comes.
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Originally posted by SmallDave View PostVery enjoyable read, I just got my e30 a month ago and am weighing my options of where to start first... Is the 36 steering rack worth the switch? I think my tie rod ends are going anyway.
I also deleted the steering linkage guibo.
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Originally posted by SmallDave View PostWhere did you find your rack? Did you follow a particular diy thread?
Deleting the Guido makes stiffer and more direct right?
Yes, deleting the guibo gives a more direct feel.
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