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Hanne, my Burgundrot M-Tech 1 build - M-Tech 1 parts are all here!
I was going to do a rear seat delete (just google E30 rear seat delete, they look great) and a custom bolt in half cage. That way, I can still put stuff (like my school bag and such) back there, and your not just looking at a bare bulkhead. Plus with it being a bolt in, everything is reversible.
I have thought about doing exactly that. I do have my dedicated track car already, and she has a weld-in cage. Plus I am building an E30 Endurance racer for WRL. I may get bolt-in cage for her, and she could run either setup...
Thanks for the thoughts!
Originally posted by LJ851
kingston is the play by play announcer for this thread.
I haven't had much time to work on Hanne lately, but I did pull the trigger on a new set of Recaros LX-C seats. Heated, black leather. Not recovered, but still in REALLY good shape, with soft, supple leather :D
I think these bring the interior together SO well!
I have also continued to collect M52 parts. I just got in the upper end gasket set, oil check valve for the head, new timing chain and timing chain guides. I still need to buy the piston rings, and pay for the head work at Noland Head. I am hoping to have the rest of the parts by the 20th of January!
Closer!
Originally posted by LJ851
kingston is the play by play announcer for this thread.
I love the LX's in my car. I had to reupholster the bolster on the driver side. And it is one big piece including the back of the seats and both bolsters. But yours are still in nicer shape than mine. They are so comfortable to sit in when driving. Completely different than sport seats in my opinion.
I love the LX's in my car. I had to reupholster the bolster on the driver side. And it is one big piece including the back of the seats and both bolsters. But yours are still in nicer shape than mine. They are so comfortable to sit in when driving. Completely different than sport seats in my opinion.
I think they are the most comfortable seats in which I have ever sat! This set was assembled from a couple of sets to come up with 2 good seats. The leather is soooo soft and supple still!
Originally posted by LJ851
kingston is the play by play announcer for this thread.
Piston rings ordered! Now I can get the bottom end bolted together. Still have to pay for the head work, buy a water pump and get an Achilles Motorsports oil pump.
The one crack in the head has been repaired, the head skimmed and a valve spring replaced. Looks SO purdy!
The block and timing cover were decked 0.015, and the pistons cleaned.
New timing chain and guides installed.
The water pump, thermostat, metal thermostat housing, spark plugs and copper exhaust header studs nuts showed up today. I still have to order the Achilles Motorsports oil pump, but she is getting closer...and I am getting excited!!!!!!
Originally posted by LJ851
kingston is the play by play announcer for this thread.
Be careful with the metal thermostat housing. I bought one and it must have been porous when it came out of the mold because after a couple of months it start leaking out of the top of it. Out of the housing not where it bolts to the block. Afterwards I read that this is fairly common. So now I plan on swapping it back out for a new OE plastic one. It wound up being a big waste of money.
Crazy! I have the metal one on my S52 car, and the M50NV that is coming out of this car. Never had an issue with either. I wonder if it is a particular supplier. Thanks for the heads up!
Originally posted by LJ851
kingston is the play by play announcer for this thread.
Wow, I am way overdue to have updated the build thread. Most of the year, she sat in waiting while I tracked Siobhan, my S52-swapped E3o track car. Unfortunately, the S52 on my track car ate a rod bearing and threw a rod. On top of that, when a friend of mine was towing the car back from the track, he lost control of the trailer, and rolled his truck, trailer and my car down an embankment, writing everything off entirely. Thankfully he was OK.
Since I was not working on Siobhan anymore, or getting to track her, I did a little more work on Hanne.
The M52 has been totally rebuilt, with new Achilles Motorsports oil pump, timing chain & guides, main and rod bearings and bolts, piston rings, gaskets, etc. The reworked head was torqued on and rebuilt VANOS installed.
The transmission went back on with new input and output shaft seals, a new pilot bearing and a new throwout bearing. The clutch disk still measured out almost brand new! I also replaced the shift selector fork and transmission pivot ball pin and spring for good measure. New delrin shifter bushings were installed as well. Nice & tight!
Once that was done, it was time to yank the dead M50NV lump out.
The swap worked well, but was not as tidy as I wanted it to be, with aftermarket alarm, one-touch windows and radio wiring installed...poorly. I set to work cleaning all that up. Before...
...After.
The engine bay was rough, too...
Wires everywhere, the PS pump mounted up high, etc...
After cleaning that mess up some, it was time to drop the M52 in the engine bay.
I still need to clean some things up, and get a powder coated valve cover.
Hanne had a 2.93 open diff when I got her. I had always meant to upgrade to a shorter limited slip diff. As luck would have it, I had JUST resealed the 3.25 LSD on my track car right before her untimely demise, with new o-rings, seals, dust caps and a rear gasket, with new Redline fluid. Remembering how much of a PITA it was to install the diff, I invested in a diff stud mounting kit from Condor Speed Shop, which is a really nicely engineered kit, with clear instructions. That was in stark contrast to the poorly designed one I initially bought from Garagsitic. That kit had 4 very short studs with no stops machined into them. The idea was that you put red Loctite on the studs, then thread them in a couple of turns. The upshot of that was that the studs don't get torqued down with the Garagastic kit, and they are ONLY held in place with the Loctite. Needless to say, that kit was not used!
I also installed an AKG poly diff bushing for good measure.
Diff installed.
With the exception of the added on L-shaped bracket by the diff, there is NO rust on the underside of this car :D
Most recently, I bought a red label 413 DME for the car.
Next step is to get the driveshaft and rear stub axles reinstalled to the diff, and get the transmission brace reinstalled. Then run the wiring so I can fire up the car!
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