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Originally posted by nando View PostThere is no ews delete. There is an ews4 emulator that might work, but otherwise you have to do it the same way as the imitator. That mean full harness swap and all neccesary modules.
Deleting dtcs is easy, you just zero out the type code (requires a dme flash). But your first and main problem is getting around EWS.
Thanks
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Originally posted by j4jo View PostNando, can you please tell me more about this ews4 emulator ...
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The proper ways to go about this is with either a true EWS bypass/delete; Or
Use the OEM harness. When an ews solution is found, it will definitely save you a few hours of time with wiring, and you dont have to tear apart your dash to install the OEM wiring and modules.
I like the OEM body harness because I plan to use the abs/dsc, also not to forget about are the wheel sensors, and stuff for creature comforts..
Different goals, different paths, which is awesome.
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Originally posted by nando View PostI might have a way to do it on ews4, but you still need the emulator. It basically acts like a cas that doesnt need a key or anything else. But you need a way to read the isn and secret key.
A software delete means full program disassembly - not a light task...
This sounds great since I dont have intention to install the OEM wiring. Only get the engine runing, upgrade brakes, stearing and supension.
@imitator ineed different ways are always good ;)... when build will start I will open new thread to show progress
@nando can you please provide me some links where to buy everything... if that is not a secret and explain what exactly needs to be done so that I can talk with my mechanic and car electrician friend. If this wont work than only way is to wait for EWS delete for this engine like we did it for s54...
Thanks
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Sub'd. Hope your project gets off the ground. Using the OEM wiring harness is the right way to start. It will be a lot easier to reduce the number of modules once they have been coded out. CAS and FRM store the vehicle order (FA) which is key to coding out unnecesasary modules, I doub't you will want to get rid of either.Alpina B3 Flash/BMS OCC/ER CP/ETS 5/HKS BOV/M3 Control Arms/OFT
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Originally posted by j4jo View PostThis sounds great since I dont have intention to install the OEM wiring. Only get the engine runing, upgrade brakes, stearing and supension.
@imitator ineed different ways are always good ;)... when build will start I will open new thread to show progress
@nando can you please provide me some links where to buy everything... if that is not a secret and explain what exactly needs to be done so that I can talk with my mechanic and car electrician friend. If this wont work than only way is to wait for EWS delete for this engine like we did it for s54...
Thanks
Here's some information straight out Rheingold Regarding the EWS4, and how it works. I surely wish I had this program sooner, there's a lot more than just the EWS in regards to a delete.
This section is the same for every E9X model, seems like there is a bit more work to be done, than initially thought. Latest reviews on Emulators show hit or miss on bricking the FRM.
The electronic immobiliser (EWS) of BMW vehicles is integrated in the CAS/FEM/BDC.
Function:
Data transfer between CAS/FEM/BDC and engine control unit
CAS/FEM/BDC interface to the engine control unit:
A secret key, protected against manipulation, is stored in the CAS/FEM/BDC control unit and in the engine control unit.
From this point onwards, engine control units and CAS/FEM/BDC control units can only be replaced with control units specifically ordered for each vehicle. An EWS adjustment in the vehicle is not possible.
Important
Trial exchange of the engine control units and the CAS/FEM/BDC control units is not possible!
Key identification and starting operation:
The following procedure takes place after identification of the vehicle key:
- The vehicle key transmits the key data to the CAS/FEM/BDC control unit.
- The CAS/FEM/BDC control unit checks the correctness of the key data and only then enables activation of the starter motor by the engine control unit.
- The engine control unit calculates a request from a random number and the secret key. The engine control unit transmits this request to the CAS/FEM/BDC.
- The CAS/FEM/BDC uses the request and the secret key to calculate the confirmation. The confirmation is transmitted from the CAS/FEM/BDC to the engine control unit.
- The engine control unit itself also calculates the confirmation that the CAS/FEM/BDC expects. The engine control unit then checks that the confirmation it receives from the CAS/FEM/BDC matches the confirmation it has calculated itself.
- If the confirmations match, the engine start is enabled.
Fault recognition in engine control unit
The following faults are monitored in the engine control unit:
- The engine control unit monitors both the signal transmission and the signals themselves.
Engine start is blocked if a fault is detected.
Originally posted by 808AWD325xi View PostSub'd. Hope your project gets off the ground. Using the OEM wiring harness is the right way to start. It will be a lot easier to reduce the number of modules once they have been coded out. CAS and FRM store the vehicle order (FA) which is key to coding out unnecesasary modules, I doub't you will want to get rid of either.
Originally posted by Yellow13 View PostSub'd to this as I am almost done doing my E30/S62 Swap. I am staying 100% CANbus and I have a good idea of what I need and don't need. I am interested in how you wire everything up. I understand though, these are two different CAN systems but they work virtually the same.
SO MANY WIRES!!
Everything was easy to identify after it was spread out..
As Nando said you should have an easier time if you're looking for a delete of some sort, or looking to sort wires.
Originally posted by nando View PostS62 should be cake. the only real CAN connections are to the DSC system and the instrument cluster. but you really don't need either of those on an S62..Last edited by the imitator; 02-16-2016, 09:44 PM.
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Sorry for the slight delay folks, I'm an insurance adjuster for Homeowners, and the Dallas/Plano area was hit quite hard, I'll be returning home mid April. Then I must relocate my swap as I have moved from the currently location in resides.
That's pretty much the bad news, just some more delays due to work and relocation.
Good news:
Relocating to a bigger garage with better lighting, in the country, with drill presses, oxy torch etc, but still using basic tools.
Back to the swap for just a few seconds here..
This is an obvious... although it appears at this point the arc asylum S54 subframe will clear the stock oil pan given a massage of the firewall, similar to that of an m30 swap; The downpipes pose an issue if we are talking about STOCK fitment.
Choices are pushing your firewall in similar to what HakenTT has documented, go single turbo, or make a new product involving stock fitment to move us forward into new generation swap.
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