e30 316 build x2 (m52/m50, turbo, 3pcs bottle caps etc)

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  • pazi88
    replied
    Originally posted by Garage30
    Great work on everything. That was some rust horror alright!
    Yeah it was most horrible amount of rust I have ever seen :D

    But now the pictures that were missing from last post. The turbo at our garage and laser cut flanges for exhaust manifold:


    Right away we tear apart the turbo:


    The wastegate hole was very small so I grined it bigger and alos port matched the exhaust housing with the manifold flange:


    The compressor housing was panted black:




    And if you want to see more detailed process, here is next part in youtube:


    The next part should be out in about two weeks and it's about the turbo oil lines and coolant hoses:

    But to make the oil lines we took apart the front of the car:


    Intercoorel is mouned in the same way as in my turbo:


    For the turbo oil return we had to take off the engine front cover. And to do that part of the chain drive had to disassembled.




    The oil return in front cover is 1 inch hydraulic fitting:


    I drilled the hole in that bigger, because there was lot of extra material to do that.

    The return "hose" is flex peace from hydraulic store. Should hold up to 10 bar pressure:


    Installed:


    Here is turbo oil feed and some coolant hoses:


    We also got the injectors. These are 600 something cc siemens deka injectors:


    And also some tube and bends for exhaust manifold:

    Leave a comment:


  • Garage30
    replied
    Great work on everything. That was some rust horror alright!

    Leave a comment:


  • pazi88
    replied
    And continue with the build. My SD-card in camera just corrupted and I don't have any pictures of the process. Although nothing special hasn't happened :D Only thing I have are few videos which I moved from card earlier and videos I recorded with phone. So I only have videos to show.

    For the brown turbo I got new engine block with pistons so I can fix the damage caused by bent rod. Before doing anything to it I decided to time-sert the threads for future proofing. Here's video about that:



    And also we have started the turbo project for the ONE. Here's first part of the project videos:

    Leave a comment:


  • econti
    replied
    I found I had some slightly inconsistent steering when I had my uni joints in line. Offset them and it was solved.
    Something to think about

    Leave a comment:


  • pazi88
    replied
    Originally posted by petrolhead
    Pasi, sorry about this rant :D

    -Jarno
    No problem. :)

    Leave a comment:


  • petrolhead
    replied
    Originally posted by NufnSus
    Top notch work you've done here! And an equally awesome job in documenting the build! Inspiration galore...

    I've got a RHD E30 with an E36 rack & lines fitted and I'm trying to work out the best solution for connecting the two ends, so I'm curious about the steering coupler you've made up for your car and the one on your brother's car.

    On your car, you went with a solid adapter to go between the splined uni-joints, which also puts the uni-joints at 90deg to each other;



    Yet on your brother's car, the couplers are welded and not offset to each other;



    Was there a specific reason for this design difference?
    I was under the impression that the uni-joints MUST be offset by 90deg to avoid binding issues?
    On a LHD E30 atleast, steering joint from a power assisted car is bolt-on..ish with an E36 rack. I can't imagine why this wouldn't apply to an E30 with steering on the wrong side.
    U-joints.. It's not about binding or anything like that, given that your angles aren't crazy. As they're not constant velocity joints, their phase and angle must be mirror image to one another. That way the change in angular velocity is zero across the two, ie. you get the same amount of rack movement per steering input from lock to lock. That's the theory. I suspect it's not worth many seconds around the Nordschleife either way. I've found that with E36 rack you get bump steer issues but on the other hand they're easier to resolve than with stock rack.
    ^hope that makes sense, my english tech vocabulary isn't so good.
    Pasi, sorry about this rant :D

    -Jarno
    Last edited by petrolhead; 12-02-2015, 01:12 PM.

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  • pazi88
    replied
    Originally posted by NufnSus
    Top notch work you've done here! And an equally awesome job in documenting the build! Inspiration galore...
    Thanks!

    Originally posted by NufnSus
    I've got a RHD E30 with an E36 rack & lines fitted and I'm trying to work out the best solution for connecting the two ends, so I'm curious about the steering coupler you've made up for your car and the one on your brother's car.

    On your car, you went with a solid adapter to go between the splined uni-joints, which also puts the uni-joints at 90deg to each other;

    Yet on your brother's car, the couplers are welded and not offset to each other;

    Was there a specific reason for this design difference?
    I was under the impression that the uni-joints MUST be offset by 90deg to avoid binding issues?
    The 90deg offset in my car was mistake. I have already fixed that so the joints are in the same way as in my brothers car. Even so I didn't notice much difference :D This video explains how the u-joints should be:

    Leave a comment:


  • BUDNUNTA
    replied
    Use the Holden Astra part it works perfect

    Leave a comment:


  • NufnSus
    replied
    Top notch work you've done here! And an equally awesome job in documenting the build! Inspiration galore...

    I've got a RHD E30 with an E36 rack & lines fitted and I'm trying to work out the best solution for connecting the two ends, so I'm curious about the steering coupler you've made up for your car and the one on your brother's car.

    On your car, you went with a solid adapter to go between the splined uni-joints, which also puts the uni-joints at 90deg to each other;

    Originally posted by pazi88
    To fit the 36 steering rack, I needed these:

    And the steering joint is a combination of two not power assisted e30 joints and that billet piece.
    Yet on your brother's car, the couplers are welded and not offset to each other;

    Originally posted by pazi88
    Next we needed to make the wheels turn. For that I used basic e30 steering u-joints and one e34 u-joint.


    And finished product:


    It even fits:
    Was there a specific reason for this design difference?
    I was under the impression that the uni-joints MUST be offset by 90deg to avoid binding issues?

    Leave a comment:


  • Mushi
    replied
    good job on this man

    Leave a comment:


  • pazi88
    replied
    The garage season has started in Finland but nothing big hasn't yet happened to these projects. Mostly we have gathered parts which we will need. For example for the white ONE we bought cheap eBay turbo for more power:


    Lets see which one gives up first. The engine with stock internals or that :D I'm starting YouTube series of this turbo project and also other BMW related project videos are coming. Currently I'm editing first two videos and I hope I can publishing those before christmas. So stay tuned! In the meantime here is video you may find interesting. I shot few 1/4 pulls in bimmerparty 2015 and featuring in this video is 1000+ hp 325ix e30. It's still running m20 and stock based AWD drivetrain pulling low tens with street tires. Sick machine and I love the sleeper look:

    Leave a comment:


  • pazi88
    replied
    Last video before winter. We already pushed the thing back to garage to receive upgrades, but first we had some fun:

    Leave a comment:


  • pazi88
    replied
    My brother took the white ONE to local Yka meet which is held at small airfield. There is no 1/4 mile, drifting or anything like that. Just having fun with the cars. I couldn't attempt but here's few photos I found from internet:











    And Youtube clip where you can see the ONE in action:

    Leave a comment:


  • pazi88
    replied
    Found old photos of the white ONE from internet. This was the look in 2011:





    The shaved BMW logo is from that time:


    After paint (this is the reason for the parts with yellow parts):


    And the look was Angry Birds themed in 2011 bimmerparty:




    After that, someone has painted it back to white and replaced the pfeba front spoiler with M-Tech bumper.

    And to this was the look two years after when we got it:


    And recap how it looks now:

    Leave a comment:


  • pazi88
    replied
    Last weekend I put this back to garage for winter. Before that I destroyed the new tires that I had so enjoy:

    I even did third gear burnouts easily You can even see the rear brakes glowing red hot because of that.

    After that I just washed the whole thing and it's now waiting for upgrades during winter:
    Last edited by pazi88; 09-10-2015, 03:39 AM.

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