e30 316 build x2 (m52/m50, turbo, 3pcs bottle caps etc)

[econti]

Ok. I just have tyre repair spray in my trunk for flats. It has worked for me.

I wish that was an option, but it's not worth the risk.

The good part is that I may be able to fit surge tank and external pump in under the spare wheel :)

I think you wouldn't actually lose a lot of volume from stock E30 tank if you slice 5 centimeters off from the rear and replace it with straight plate. It would have to be the newer, (60 l?) tank without the joining tube, though. Also, have a good welder do it and preferably use a new, unused tank.

Also: Sounds good on the video!

The volume of the tank doesn't bother me hugely if it's a few litres off original capacity, so yes modifying a stock tank has occurred to me.

I really just have to get mine in the air, hold a 34 rear end under it and see what'll fit

[Skarpa]

Ah right, thanks big time.
Perhaps twin under floor fuel cells with a crossover pipe? Perhaps E30 tank with modifications?

I really just need to have a look at mine once it's time to rebuild.

I think you wouldn't actually lose a lot of volume from stock E30 tank if you slice 5 centimeters off from the rear and replace it with straight plate. It would have to be the newer, (60 l?) tank without the joining tube, though. Also, have a good welder do it and preferably use a new, unused tank.

Also: Sounds good on the video!

[pazi88]

I need a spare wheel and a useable boot, because street car. Had 2 flats recently and a spare was 100% necessary

Ok. I just have tyre repair spray in my trunk for flats. It has worked for me.

[econti]

Or just sink the fuel cell in the space where spare wheel should be?

I need a spare wheel and a useable boot, because street car. Had 2 flats recently and a spare was 100% necessary

[pazi88]

Ah right, thanks big time.
Perhaps twin under floor fuel cells with a crossover pipe? Perhaps E30 tank with modifications?

I really just need to have a look at mine once it's time to rebuild.

Or just sink the fuel cell in the space where spare wheel should be?

[econti]

The e34 rear axle comes 5-7 cm cm further than the e30 rear axle so there is no room for stock tank.

e30:


e34:

Ah right, thanks big time.
Perhaps twin under floor fuel cells with a crossover pipe? Perhaps E30 tank with modifications?

I really just need to have a look at mine once it's time to rebuild.

[pazi88]

It's almost winter in Finland so I took my e30 for last drive before putting it to garage. Here's video about that so you could get an idea how it sounds and feels:

[pazi88]

I forgot you'd done that!

I read back to the install, do you recall why the E30 fuel tank won't fit with the E34 axle?
Thinking about doing something similar with my car but I want a useable boot so no fuel cell unfortunately

The e34 rear axle comes 5-7 cm cm further than the e30 rear axle so there is no room for stock tank.

e30:


e34:

[econti]

That may be the case :D But luckily we have the whole e34 rear axle. It's beefier than e30 original. And if it fails, the m5/540 parts can be swapped in no time.

I forgot you'd done that!

I read back to the install, do you recall why the E30 fuel tank won't fit with the E34 axle?
Thinking about doing something similar with my car but I want a useable boot so no fuel cell unfortunately

[pazi88]

I predict a lot of broken driveshafts in your future.

This is totally where I wanted it to go :)

That may be the case :D But luckily we have the whole e34 rear axle. It's beefier than e30 original. And if it fails, the m5/540 parts can be swapped in no time.

[econti]

I predict a lot of broken driveshafts in your future.

This is totally where I wanted it to go :)

[pazi88]

As promised, complete video of our 2016 bimmerparty:


But then:


Yes. My brother bought holset hx40 because he didn't want to lose me every time.




That doesn't have integrated wastegate so we needed one:


And then we remembered that the engine in the ONE has m52 connecting rods which I managed to bend even with hx35 so he bought these:


Then we thought that HX40 can probably provide more than 1.5bar or 20psi boost without problems and that starts to be problem for the stock head bolts. And because we have aluminium block and there is no ARP studs for that so he bought also this:


And then things started to get out of hands:




So yes we are going to build completely new engine with forged internals and let's see what 1/4 mile times we can get with that and using slicks.

[econti]

So good to see them being used hard

[pazi88]

And after I got the driveshaft and boost control sorted it was time for the main event of the summer. Bimmerparty! I will make complete video of that to YouTube but before that some written story:

All started with drifting competition at Friday. I changed some shitty tires and set the boost control maximum boost. And what a mistake it was. it started raining just minutes before my turn and those tires were the worst tires at rain what I had ever driven. They had absolutely zero traction and the high boost levels didn't help at all. And in addition to that my fuel cap started leaking again so the drifting was total failure. Here is short video how that chaos looked like:

https://youtu.be/V08btwthl7Q

So naturally I was last at the competition. My brother drove the white ONE and he had little bit better tires. So he was eventually fifth in the overall scores.





There should have been speed competition also at the Friday but it was cancelled because of heavy rain so I was going to focus the 1/4 mile next day.


I started early on the morning so I had time to lower the rear end of the car. That's because last year I had tire hopping problem and it was solved by lowering the back. And because of early start I was almost first in the line for 1/4 mile but that wasn't very good. thing because they had problems with the equipment and I had to wait long time at the start line. The tires had time to cool down and combine that to full boost settings, I lost all the traction on the second and third gear. The first gear was also total failure because I had serious problems with rear tires hopping. The time was 13.6 and 194 km/h. To compare my last year best was 13.5 and 188 km/h so the bigger hp number is clearly shown at the end speed.

For the second run I lowered boost levels on low RPM and took some air out of the tires. It didn't help on the tire hopping but I got lot more traction. The time was 13.4 and 195 km/h. I was happy that I at least beat my time from last year. But soon after that my brother made 13.0 pass with the ONE at 180 km/h end speed. So I had to make 12 second pass to beat my little brother with lot less power.



For the third pull I lowered the boost even more on low RPM, added more on the top and I tried to leave very carefully. But I managed to almost shut down the car on the line and with higher boost at the top, the AFR numbers went crazy so that pull was failure again.

It seemed like that the fourth time will be my last chance to beat my brother. So I lowered the tire pressures even more and put back the boost map from second pull. Heated the tires really good and when leaving I just shortly used first gear to prevent the tire hopping. Now the time was 12.8 with 195km/h end speed. Finally! The 60ft time was 0.6 second slower than my brother with the ONE so when I get rid of that tire hopping, i should be close to the 11s times. But here is that last pull: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4GuGqHsHbXE





Last thing I was going to attend was Autoslalom. Or is the Autocross more familiar name :D In that I had two attempts and the first wasn't very good because I tried to drive too fast and I lost in the middle of the route. On second attempt I drove more slowly and made sure that I will drive the route without mistakes.





It felt much better and eventually the time was so good that I was on the third place:


So that was the short story about the bimmerparty. Even with all that hooning with the cars. Neither of those broke and the still work just fine.

To the end some ramdon pics I found:






I have also finished two more episodes of my m52 turbo build videos on YouTube so check those out if you haven't already:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C4m6hWTCYdY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mz9JQt93gA4

[pazi88]

Updates. Finally got the shaking problem solved in my m52 turbo. The problems was in driveshaft. I had installed the center bearing wrong way around and that had jammed the front u-joint. It wasn't completely locked but only little bit stiff. But that was enough to cause serious shaking when getting the car moving.

With "new" driveshaft and new center bearing right way around, everything was solved.


Now when I could leave hard on first gear. The slow spooling of the turbo started to be annoying. I didn't had any boost control before and I was only running wastegate pressure. So the boost was basically on lowest setting possible with my setup. Because of my not so good wastegate location, the max boost was still 1 bar but it creeps up very slowly. I tried bleeder valve with 1 bar boost and with that the turbo spooled up faster but the 1 bar of boost seemed to be too much for lower rpm, because it broke traction very easily. And the power output was all or nothing. So not very usable setup. For better boost control I bought Volkswagen N75 boost controller which is used for example in 1.8T engines.


With that I could control the boost from megasquirt without any restrictions. The megasquirt ms2 is capable of controlling that out of the box using IAC1 and IAC2 outputs. Those could drive up to 2A of load but unfortunately in my KDFI unit the IAC1 is used for tacho output. The IAC2 is then used for VANOS control. The third option for boost control is js11 which is basically ignition D output. In KDFI it looks like that the js11 is connected to pin19 through sot23 w1p transistor. So that output could controll the fan relay if that would be possible in megasquirt software. I could connect the n75 to that fan relay output but the problem is that the output could drive only 100mA of load. And the n75 pulls about 400mA. To solve the problem I just connected the n75 to the engine lamda 1 connector (the connector is in good location in engine bay, unused and it can provide +12v when ignition on and there is already signal cable to the ecu). Then I soldered tip122 darlington transistor to the IGN-D output and connected it to grond and that lamda 1 signal output wire:


And with that I had the n75 electronic boost controller working. In tunerstudio I used the 19,5 hz frequnecy for the solenoid and open loop control for that which seemed to work fine on first try.

This is for example the log from my dyno pull:


So in fifth gear I have 0,2 bar boost at 2800 RPM. In practice I didn't had any boost at second gear in that point.

And this is second gear with the n75 in use:


Now I have 0,6 bar of boost at 2800 RPM which is quite good for my use. I could have more but as I said, the full boost at low RPM isn't very drive able. The open loop boost map has TPS and RPM axis so now the boost depends on the TPS position and the car is is VERY easy to control.