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1995 e34 540i/6 *m60b44* - Return to Some Kind of Glory

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    #31
    you need the holder that goes with the fan wrench. the one that goes over the two nuts on the front of the pulley. even with a non-seized clutch, i still can't break the fan nut loose with the wrench alone. everyone says 'just wack it with a hammer' - doesnt ever work.

    Comment


      #32
      Originally posted by straight6pwr View Post
      you need the holder that goes with the fan wrench. the one that goes over the two nuts on the front of the pulley. even with a non-seized clutch, i still can't break the fan nut loose with the wrench alone. everyone says 'just wack it with a hammer' - doesnt ever work.
      Yeah, I have had lots of luck just whacking it with a hammer. But this time, no dice. Already ordered up a new pulley so the one on the car is trashed anyway.

      While I was there, I found some plugs that are just sitting loose in the engine bay.



      But I found the attached file on the web explaining what is what with the m60 harness. Shouldn't be too much of a mystery to figure out.

      Also, ECS had URO Parts drop ship something to me and that marked the rest of the order I had with ECS as shipped, so they didn't send me a bunch of parts I had ordered up. DOH! They are shipping everything else out though and will be here Saturday.

      EDIT: I have tried to translate all the German into English. Gnarly.
      • Lichtmaschine – Alternator
      • Ölniveausensor – Oil level sensor
      • Tankentlüftungventil – Ventilation tank?
      • Anlasser – Starter
      • Drosselklappenschalter – Throttle position sensor
      • Öldruck – Oil pressure sensor
      • Leerlaufsteller – Idle actuator
      • Luftmengenmesser – Airflow sensor
      • Geber schwungrad – flywheel position sensor
      • Klopfsensoren – Knock sensor
      • Zündspulen – Coil pack connector
      • Lambdasonen – O2 Sensor (lambda)
      • Rückwärtsgang – Reverse
      • Temperaturfühler – Temperature sensor
      • Ferntermometer – Remote thermometer connector
      • Diagnosestecker – Diagnostic connector
      • Steuergerat – Control unit
      • Stecker Klima – Air plug (probably climate control)
      • Tankentlüftungsrelasis – Ventilation tank relay?
      • Benzinpumpe relais – Fuel pump relay
      • DME relais – DME relay
      • Schnittstelle ABS ACS – ABS ACS interface


      Probably close enough to make some sense of what is going on.
      Attached Files
      Last edited by marshallnoise; 08-16-2017, 02:04 PM.
      Si vis pacem, para bellum.

      New Hawtness: 1995 540i/6 Claptrap
      Defunct too: Cirrusblau m30 Project
      Defunct (sold): Alta Vista

      79 Bronco SHTF Build

      Comment


        #33
        Finally got that clutch fan off.





        Proof that the previous owner (one of 5) took a punch to it.


        Finally clear!
        Last edited by marshallnoise; 08-16-2017, 02:05 PM.
        Si vis pacem, para bellum.

        New Hawtness: 1995 540i/6 Claptrap
        Defunct too: Cirrusblau m30 Project
        Defunct (sold): Alta Vista

        79 Bronco SHTF Build

        Comment


          #34
          Tomorrow is a big day and I hope I am not jinxing myself by typing about it before it actually happens.

          The goal is to attack the following items over the weekend.
          • Reseal the whole intake system, PCV, etc
          • Redo the valley pan gasket just in case
          • Tape up the harness where wires are exposed
          • Replace all belt drive idler pulleys
          • New drive belts
          • Valve cover gaskets
          • Power wash the front of the engine and radiator area
          • Install Taurus Fan set up
          • Install new hoses
          • Get the correct washers and nylon nuts for the throttle cable
          • Diagnose power-steering leak


          A lot of this hinges on ECS Tuning to get my already delayed order here on Saturday. I know I have a lot of stuff to do, but I already got a jump on it by getting my pop tent out and covering the front of the car and also began pulling the harness away.

          So far everything is pretty logical in terms of removing the harness. Some of the lower plugs still need to be pulled but that's what realoem is for and I'll be sure to study that.

          I do have an appointment smack in the middle of the day tomorrow and also have church in the morning on Sunday. Depending on how trashed I feel Sunday morning, I may just blow off finishing it up until some evening in the week.

          In other news, the Rheumatologist told me I have to stop taking Alieve along with Mobic. Both are anti-inflammatories and both can jack up my liver if taken together. So I feel like shit now. However, he did get me on Methotrexate which is a drug used for chemotherapy in leukemia treatment. However, it is supposed to be very helpful in treating Psoriatic Arthritis. I am hopeful though. It just takes 4-6 weeks to become effective.

          C'est la vie!
          Si vis pacem, para bellum.

          New Hawtness: 1995 540i/6 Claptrap
          Defunct too: Cirrusblau m30 Project
          Defunct (sold): Alta Vista

          79 Bronco SHTF Build

          Comment


            #35
            Stymied

            Yesterday, I got the radiator out and removed the clutch fan as well as partially removed the harness from the engine.

            Things were kicking major ass this morning! I finished pulling the harness out of the way, I just had to pull some vacuum hoses and the fuel lines off the injector rail and bam, the intake was ready to come off.





            From the other side.


            I had to remove the pipes that run from the front to the back of the car so up Next was to pull the water pump.



            And I'll be damned if there wasn't a metal water pump impeller. Good sign.


            With a gentle tug I was able to remove the coolant pipes and inspect the o-rings. They were shot. Good thing I had ordered a new set. When I was cleaning them it looked like they had sealing problems before so they used black RTV. It seemed to work.

            Once the pipes were out of the way, I was able to get to the valley pan and pull it. Piece of cake.




            What you'll notice is the absence of the knock sensors. They were all broken up. I am sure they were operating fine, but everything I read said that if the wires were exposed and or huge cracks were visible, its best to replace them. BMW wanted $110 a piece and it took 7 days ($440), O'Reilly wanted $88 a piece and another 7 days, Vatozone wanted $75 a piece and another 7 days. One google search and FCP Euro had them for $46 each. I was gonna have to wait anyway so I ordered them from FCP Euro.

            The only progress I could make from this point until the knock sensors show up is reseal the valley pan gasket as a preventative measure. I used my favorite gasket maker, "The Right Stuff", and reused the valley pan.



            So here is how it sits until the knock sensors arrive.


            Decided to give the intake a good clean. The injectors were VERY clean. No crud at all. Pleased to see that.


            In the mean time I was able to pull off the throttle body with great difficulty. People were not joking about those stupid torx bits stripping out. I wound up using a sawzall cutting the heads off the bolts. This allowed me to pull the TB off and unscrew remaining part of the torx bolt. I replaced them with just standard M6x25mm hex head bolts. Much better.



            I also replaced the PCV valve with a new unit and those torx bolts were stupid tight. But they gave way fine. I used them again when reinstalling the PCV valve but a couple of them will get replaced with hex head bolts before being put back on the car.

            I still had some daylight so I taped up the wiring harness that was getting fragile in spots. I also polished up the coolant pipes, cleaned up the water pump mating surfaces, and replaced a block off plug off the water pump that I think goes to the automatic transmission. I also replaced what I think was allowing vacuum leak in the first place. There was another plug put on the end of the PCV valve that had been broken off at the tip that is an unused vacuum port.

            All in all, a good solid day. Its a good thing, in retrospect, that I was able to slow down and not bum rush reinstalling stuff.

            Here are the trashed knock sensors.
            Last edited by marshallnoise; 08-16-2017, 02:09 PM.
            Si vis pacem, para bellum.

            New Hawtness: 1995 540i/6 Claptrap
            Defunct too: Cirrusblau m30 Project
            Defunct (sold): Alta Vista

            79 Bronco SHTF Build

            Comment


              #36
              Since I am waiting on more expensive parts (knock sensors, mainly), I decided to get out to the car and try and repair the window regulator on the driver's door and take the clear tint off. Fixing the window regulator with the new plastic slides was a piece of cake. Removing ancient tint...not so much a piece of cake. But I did get it done.

              Tried reinstalling the door card but managed to misalign some of the clip holders on the door card and couldn't get it installed right. The black plastic pieces that accept the white door card clips come off these door cards after 20 years, even when being very careful. I had one of them epoxied in the wrong spot. Had to switch two of them and this evening I will give it another go now that I have them in the right order.

              Similar story on the driver's rear door: The tint is way worse and haven't even begun to get rid of it. But I pulled the door card off and 4 of the black plastic pieces came off the door card so I am going to have to epoxy them back in place. The regulator plastic slides were gummed up with what appears to be hardened cheese-wiz. No idea what that crap is about. Also, the regulator is making the typical "click, click, click" sound.

              The sound is emblematic of what this page discusses: BMW E34 Window Gear.

              I will be trying this first though.


              If it works, I may just do it to all 4 of them and be done with it. Seems a logical solution.

              Edit: Oh yeah!
              The rear door didn't have a vapor barrier at all! Someone was obviously in the door and just chucked the old one. Fortunately, it doesn't rain a ton here so I doubt there were any ill-effects from it not being there. I will stop by Home Depot on the way home and grab some Visqueen, foam and some adhesive and attempt to make my own vapor barrier. I do know that the front one is torn to bits too. It works, but I don't like it. If I have success, I may just make all four.
              Si vis pacem, para bellum.

              New Hawtness: 1995 540i/6 Claptrap
              Defunct too: Cirrusblau m30 Project
              Defunct (sold): Alta Vista

              79 Bronco SHTF Build

              Comment


                #37
                DIY Vapor Barrier & Left Rear Regulator Fix

                Swung by Home De-Pot yesterday after work and picked up some 4mil Visqueen, spray adhesive and some #8 sheet metal screws.



                I had some music studio foam laying around and decided to try and cut it to a thinner profile and use it for the sound deadening material. It was a hack job. Plus, I got the sizing all wrong on the door. Fortunately this stuff was cheap so I can have another go at it.

                Here is the front driver's vapor barrier for a reference.


                Pics below are the abortion of a Vapor Barrier I attempted to assemble.










                I will redo the vapor barrier and get some 1/2" foam to lay over it. Cutting the sound deadening material was too difficult.

                Had to glue back some of the black plastic clip holders in. I tried the spray adhesive for giggles rather than epoxy. Will let it dry overnight.


                Here is the window regulator motor that was making the click, click, click noise. It worked great after I sunk in the #8 screws. I used a sawzall to cut off the heads. That was a dumb idea. I didn't tear anything up too much, but yeah, not the best or cleanest. Will have to get a dremel-like tool eventually.












                Video of it working.


                Here is a picture of the crud that was in the window slide. Cheesewhiz.


                I do have another problem though. The window regulator is sliding the window up on the back side just fine. This is the arm that is directly attached to the motor mechanism. However, the front part of the window is not sliding up correctly. I believe it has to do with the plastic wheel that acts as a lever. It was popping out on it's own prior to me getting new clips installed, but it isn't moving well in the slide that is built into the regulator.

                I lifted this picture from the web to show the part I am working with.


                EDIT: Found a good link for what I think the issue is. Except I have binding.
                http://www.bmwforums.com.au/showthre...indow-Problems
                Last edited by marshallnoise; 08-16-2017, 02:20 PM.
                Si vis pacem, para bellum.

                New Hawtness: 1995 540i/6 Claptrap
                Defunct too: Cirrusblau m30 Project
                Defunct (sold): Alta Vista

                79 Bronco SHTF Build

                Comment


                  #38
                  Fuuuuuu!!!!

                  Installed these.


                  Reason why:


                  Should move like this and yeah, my fark up.


                  FUUUUUU!!!!

                  Snapped a bolt off in where one of the idler pulleys goes.

                  Gave up on that after installing the new pulley for the water pump. Drew my attention back to figuring out what is wrong with my left rear regulator.

                  Disconnected the piece that I thought was causing the issue.


                  Sho-nuff.


                  I need to source one of these wheel things to go into the sliding track. With no weight on it, the arm moves the way it should as evidenced in the video I posted yesterday. Add weight of the window and I am SOL. I think I found a solution. For $7.95 shipped, I hope this works. The OD is 26mm, ID is 13mm and width is 5mm. Should last a lot longer.

                  Moved on to starting a new improved vapor barrier. I just stuck some of the Visqueen up on the door and traced around the area where the stick-um was. This would give me a much more accurate piece to work with. Pardon the artwork. Its my car, gonna be for a while.

                  20151007_191821

                  Then ran over to Joann and got some high-density foam. Expensive crap man! Cut out my new vapor barrier, then glued it down.



                  And here is where it will rest until dry tomorrow.


                  I'll trim it out and be done with it.

                  Now to figure out how to back out that damn bolt.....
                  Last edited by marshallnoise; 08-16-2017, 02:22 PM.
                  Si vis pacem, para bellum.

                  New Hawtness: 1995 540i/6 Claptrap
                  Defunct too: Cirrusblau m30 Project
                  Defunct (sold): Alta Vista

                  79 Bronco SHTF Build

                  Comment


                    #39
                    Originally posted by marshallnoise View Post
                    Since I am waiting on more expensive parts (knock sensors, mainly), I decided to get out to the car and try and repair the window regulator on the driver's door and take the clear tint off. Fixing the window regulator with the new plastic slides was a piece of cake. Removing ancient tint...not so much a piece of cake. But I did get it done.

                    Tried reinstalling the door card but managed to misalign some of the clip holders on the door card and couldn't get it installed right. The black plastic pieces that accept the white door card clips come off these door cards after 20 years, even when being very careful. I had one of them epoxied in the wrong spot. Had to switch two of them and this evening I will give it another go now that I have them in the right order.

                    Similar story on the driver's rear door: The tint is way worse and haven't even begun to get rid of it. But I pulled the door card off and 4 of the black plastic pieces came off the door card so I am going to have to epoxy them back in place. The regulator plastic slides were gummed up with what appears to be hardened cheese-wiz. No idea what that crap is about. Also, the regulator is making the typical "click, click, click" sound.

                    The sound is emblematic of what this page discusses: BMW E34 Window Gear.

                    I will be trying this first though.


                    If it works, I may just do it to all 4 of them and be done with it. Seems a logical solution.

                    Edit: Oh yeah!
                    The rear door didn't have a vapor barrier at all! Someone was obviously in the door and just chucked the old one. Fortunately, it doesn't rain a ton here so I doubt there were any ill-effects from it not being there. I will stop by Home Depot on the way home and grab some Visqueen, foam and some adhesive and attempt to make my own vapor barrier. I do know that the front one is torn to bits too. It works, but I don't like it. If I have success, I may just make all four.
                    Lol that's my video! It lasted for a few months for me then started slipping again. No adjustment or lubing of the worm gear motor worked for me. I ended up replacing the regulator and it worked again.
                    Turbo M50 4 Door Build thread here 4 Sale thread

                    Comment


                      #40
                      Originally posted by eduTechnic View Post
                      Lol that's my video! It lasted for a few months for me then started slipping again. No adjustment or lubing of the worm gear motor worked for me. I ended up replacing the regulator and it worked again.
                      Rad! Yeah, it will suffice for now. I am just trying to get the car back into daily driver status. Hate bleeding money out for parts.
                      Si vis pacem, para bellum.

                      New Hawtness: 1995 540i/6 Claptrap
                      Defunct too: Cirrusblau m30 Project
                      Defunct (sold): Alta Vista

                      79 Bronco SHTF Build

                      Comment


                        #41
                        I miss my e34. Best DD ever.
                        Turbo M50 4 Door Build thread here 4 Sale thread

                        Comment


                          #42
                          Originally posted by eduTechnic View Post
                          I miss my e34. Best DD ever.
                          I am hoping that to be the case!

                          Found this thread about fixing the rollers in the rear window regulators: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ight=regulator.

                          Knock sensors arrive tomorrow, finally.

                          Planning on trying to get that broken bolt out of the block today...:(
                          Si vis pacem, para bellum.

                          New Hawtness: 1995 540i/6 Claptrap
                          Defunct too: Cirrusblau m30 Project
                          Defunct (sold): Alta Vista

                          79 Bronco SHTF Build

                          Comment


                            #43
                            Remove the tint? Steam or how ya do it?
                            ACS S3 Build / Dinan 5 E34

                            Comment


                              #44
                              Originally posted by TimeMachinE30 View Post
                              Remove the tint? Steam or how ya do it?
                              I did it the hard way. The stuff is really freaking old. I used windex and a heat gun. I only got the driver's window done though. It had a clear tint (probably UV) that was marred up by the regulator arm.

                              The rear seems to have had tint placed over the factory window tint. The window was purplish looking before, but when I pulled off the first layer, it revealed a smoke color. Need to research what is factory or not.
                              Si vis pacem, para bellum.

                              New Hawtness: 1995 540i/6 Claptrap
                              Defunct too: Cirrusblau m30 Project
                              Defunct (sold): Alta Vista

                              79 Bronco SHTF Build

                              Comment


                                #45
                                Same thing happened to me with the water pump AND the timing belt. It was like new.
                                Our RestoMod Diary!

                                El Mustache De La Resistance!

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