Project Armo "330i" M-tech 1

[Skarpa]

My plan was to use the M52B28 airbox for the engine. That posed a small problem because it's bigger than the original airbox of E30 and the ABS pump does not fit in it's original place. I propably wouldn't bother with the ABS but according to Finnish regulations I need to have it because the 325i's of the same year and month had them as stock.





One possible solution would be to relocate the ABS pump onto battery shelf but I decided not to do that. It would make the ABS pump the highest point in brake system and I wanted to avoid any possible bleeding problems. (even when I know that V8 guys often do that) I noticed that the pump doesn't actually need a lot of extra space. It fits in place when turned lengthwise. It just blocks the access to headlight adjustment screws and headlight connector so it needs to be moved about 70 mm down. I cut off the front corner of engine bay, there was some rust to be fixed anyway.






I needed to check that the tire doesn't hit the dropped front corner of engine bay when turned completely. Seems to be okay if I keep the same angle as in the wheel well above.



Then it was only a matter of welding the new side walls of the recess.




I made quick assembly of headlight, radiator and airbox to verify the correct level and check fitting. Everything seemed to be all right.




Didn't have the time to finish the recess on that session though.

[Skarpa]

All of that would be good if I actually was using M52 airbox but today I came across full intake assembly from Euro-spec S50B30 for a reasonable price. Propably the S50 airbox fits the same way as M52, though.




(Actually the ITBs are from B30 and the rest is from B32. B32 has a little longer intake runners for more low end torque.)

[kingston]

Great work!!!! Subscribed!

[Skarpa]

Great work!!!! Subscribed!

Thanks a lot!

[Skarpa]

I went to garage yesterday and got a little work done. I wanted to use the original panel for the bottom ABS recess to keep the original look and because I have no tools to create good-looking stiffening ribs. The panel had rust in the rear corner so I replaced it and filled one unnecessary hole as well. I also straightened the front corner to better match the shape I wanted.






Then I sanded all the seams so far and primered everything with weld through primer. There's no pic of that but I was quite happy with the seams once painted. They really don't stick out to your eye. Nice to notice there has been improvement in my bodywork skills.



Now that we are more or less up to date you may have noticed that my progress is not lightning fast. I try to get at least one night at the garage every week to keep things moving forward steadily.

[Skarpa]

Things have been a bit slow in this front for two reasons: 1. I've been busy and 2. It's been -20 to -30 centigrades in Finland and in that temperature my garage barely reaches above zero. Not too encouraging to work there but still some little progress. I glued and welded the front corner in place and started figuring out the brackets for the ABS pump.





There is a U-shaped (or possibly J) sheetmetal bracket in the ABS pump. My original idea was to discard that and mount the rubber cushions directly to the pump frame. Then I realized that would put one of the nuts in impossible location. I will use the original bracket or something similar. The bracket actually needs to be mirror image of the original. For mocking up purposes I just flipped the bracket over.



The fixing points would look something like this:


Some evolution is likely to go on still. I have 1mm sheet metal at garage that I use for bodywork but it might not be stiff enough for the brackets. I'll make mock-up brackets using that and remake them from thicker material if necessary. While I was using the angle grinder I got rid of the left front tow loop that will not be used with the M-tech 1 front apron.


Last week I ordered the front subframe reinforcement plates for myself and for some fellow hobbyists. I should have them latest in next week. Also, the engine and tranny mounts arrived and yesterday I had time to test them on. No surprises there. Looking forward to test-fitting the engine. I just need to borrow an engine hoist for that.

[petrolhead]

1. I've been busy and 2. It's been -20 to -30 centigrades in Finland and in that temperature my garage barely reaches above zero. Not too encouraging to work there but still some little progress.

I let let garage be quite cool when I'm not there, when I am I use this as needed:


Ayway that's no excuse! I was out sandblasting when it was ~-24 C. :D

[Skarpa]

I let let garage be quite cool when I'm not there, when I am I use this as needed:

[ThingForMakingPlacesWarm]

Ayway that's no excuse! I was out sandblasting when it was ~-24 C. :D

Yeah, one of those might be good. Even though I make excuses I still agree with you. A couple of days ago I was outside sawing panels for our kitchen cabinets. Oh god, the metal guides of the saw were cold when I needed to remove gloves to adjust them. But if you let the weather bother too much you never get anything done.

[Skarpa]

My brother picked up the ITBs since he lives close to the seller. My father was visiting him and brought them to me so I was finally able to lay my hands on them. They sure are nice even though there are a few points that need attention. Two of the intake runners have a cracks in the connection flange and one of the tabs for throttle cable has broken off so some gluing or plastic welding is required. The previous owner did not use these runners, he had a carbon airbox with built in runners. The fuel nozzle manifold is not the original one but seems to be well made.



The airbox is a hefty chunk of aluminum. It weighs about 5 kg's (11 lbs). The guy I bought the throttle bodies from had them installed on M52 head but the adapter was not part of the deal. I made a good deal on an un-used secondhand adapter. I tested it on and was happy with the way it fits. There's no step whatsoever between the adapter and the bodies.


Unlike the original M52 and M50 intake manifolds, the adapter does not have grooves machined for profiled O-rings so I need to make flat gaskets or use gasket sealant between the head and the adapter. Next time I'm in the garage I need to make sure the nozzles clear the head. I've read of a few cases of nozzles hitting the the head but I'm not expecting problems. The adapter appears to be tall enough.



Also the front subframe reinforcement plates arrived and on Wednesday I will take the engine hoist to garage so I'll have everything at hand to start fiddling with engine test fit. I ordered also blank plates so I can drill the hole where I want it and can install the engine mounts without flipping them. Last time at the garage I had a look and it seems the hole will likely be in the middle of the original hole and slot.

[Skarpa]

Yesterday I took engine hoist to garage and was finally able to move the engine around. After I bought the engine, I just shook it off of a trailer and haven't moved it since.

I wonder what has been glued here ;) Hope it comes off with rubbing alcohol or acetone.



When I had the engine lifted up I was able to test-fit the front subframe and check that the exhaust manifold clears it. I was a bit worried about that but seems to be fine.




While I was fiddling with the subframe I checked that my reinforcement plates fit ok and they are actually near perfect. I'll post the dwg files here. Anyone know any good file sharing site where I can just leave something for people to download? EDIT: Here are the templates





I also check to see that the ITBs fit okay. The nozzles pose no problem but the vanos solenoid, TPS and the breather connection are a different story.




In these pics the ITBs still need to go in another 10 mm. The intake manifold stud bolts are too long for the adapter. When in correct position the TPS will fit but the cable will not and there's no room for the breather hose. It seems that I can flip the syncing shaft and the sensor 180 degrees to point the cable upwards. I know that the valve cover is not weldable so I cannot modify the direction of the breather connection. I was thinking of cutting it off and tapping the hole to fit an elbow there. After some googling I noticed that other people have come to same conclusions. I guess the solutions are fairly obvious:

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?544874-Official-M50-Manifold-Swap-Thread&p=24564133#post24564133

[petrolhead]

Hope it comes off with rubbing alcohol or acetone.

I f....ing dare you to leave it!!

[Skarpa]

I f....ing dare you to leave it!!

I might if it was ugly cool but it's just plain fucking ugly :D

Here's a link to reinforcement plate drawings if anyone's interested.

http://1drv.ms/1PEhzfi

[Skarpa]

Today my plan was to make brackets for the radiator. I bought the 318is plastic top bracket and E36 bottom mounts but on my way to garage I managed to lose them. Now I cannot find them at the garage, at home or in my car, oh well. I ended up finishing the ABS pump brackets instead. For the pump I use OEM hardware. All three bushing cups are of removable type.



First bracket:


Second bracket coming along:


All three brackets finished:


And the pump fitted.:


I need to add one rib or gusset under the bottom of the pump recess. The front bracket is slightly too flexible and can bend a little forward. Otherwise I'm happy. Next to the pump there's space for the brake pipes.

[litu]

Awesome work...

[Skarpa]

Awesome work...

Thanks!


I tackled the ITB fitment issues. I needed to flip the TPS 180 degrees to point the cable away from vanos solenoid. It turned out to be easy. Once all the levers had been unscrewed from the synching shaft, it could be flipped and screwed back on along with the sensor.


Next I needed to move the connecting link of the first throttle pair out of the breather hoses way. There are axles for the link in the levers and I neede to point them in another direction.


One of the axles was riveted while the other one seemed to be welded. I ground off the rivet head and drilled away the weld and was able to pop out the exles. They are ribbed and required quite a lot of force to come off.




I flipped the axles to other side and pounded them back in. My workmate welded them on with tig. The axles are zinc plated and the welds ended up a bit porous but I have no doubt of them holding together.


Once I screwed the levers back on it turned out that one of them hit the side of the throttle body so a bit of modification was required also there. I shortened the axle, switched the nut into regular one and ground off the rib from the side of the throttle body. After that everything fit nicely.




I placed one washer under the ball joint to keep it from rubbin to the side of the lever.




Previous owner had made a fuel rail for the ITBs but I had a few issues with it. The throttle linkakes hit the rail. Rail has been ground to make space for the linkages but it's not quite enough.


I was wondering if I could use the B28 fuel rail. I comes with the pressure regulator so I would avoid having to buy one. However, it turns out there are a number of collisions, mostly with the ITB vacuum piping. It might be doable but would need some work. I guess I'll use the fuel rail provided. I just need to grind a bit more space for the throttle linkages and buy a separate fuel pressure regulator.


PS. I found the radiator mounts.