Jeep Grand Wagoneer LSx Swap (not e30...but like to share)

[jakeb]

More done today....

Got the 96 Jimmy fuel pump and it has the correct 0-90ohm fuel level sender. That is installed in the tank but tank isn't in the jeep yet.

Shifter linkage pulled out, painted, and reinstalled with new hardware and adjusted. The detent for Drive will let you go to 4th or 3rd. Did a but of adjusting and it just wasn't possible to be able to get Drive to sit in the right detent and still be able to get it into Park. I am guessing I would need a different detent in the column to make it perfect.

The rest of the day was spent working on wiring.

Below are the Jeep wires/colors all coming out of the multi pin connector at the drivers side firewall.

Hope these help others.
Start wire..there is a splice in this where it went to the ignition box. This wire normally connects to the starter solenoid on the passenger side inner fender. This will now hook to the GM starter.


Yellow wire, 12v in RUN and START. I ran this to a relay that powers the GM main relay, my speedo drive box, and the transfer case stuff.


Orange wire, 12v in RUN only. I am not using this....I MIGHT end up running this to one of the transfer case connections that was in RUN only in the silverado.


Blue is the coolant gauge wire


Oil PSI is mentioned above in the thread.

Reading the PCM with HP tuners.




Wiring still needs to be cleaned up a little bit but I want to make sure everything is working before I wrap it up. But here is a pic of the new fuse blocks, relays, and GM PCM mounted on the drivers side inner fender.



The transfer case reacts when I push 2wd, 4wd, and auto modes. The lights are not coming on the switch showing that each mode is engaged but all seems to be doing when it should. I don't have the "dash lights" wire hooked up to the switch which I thought was just for the back light but that might not be the case. Planning to hook that up tomorrow and see what happens. If still no lights I'll just get it running and give it a test in some gravel. I can always take it and have the transfer case module scanned if needed.

Should be running tomorrow.

[w140]

You really are going to LS all the cars. Good work Jake, keep it up

[jakeb]

Tank is in for good now. I ended up welding the Jimmy vent and fill up and installing some ports that matched the Jeep hose size and also in a bit better location.

Don't mind the running paint. I wanted to spray something on the raw metal to stop any rust.


This was before I changed the inlet and vent but you can see the hose rouing. Added foam on the top of the tank to keep everything tight and from rubbing.


I've said multple times but I sure wish I would have bought a radiator with a inlet on the passenger side....but either way I had to use what I had. If this radiator every leaks I will be going a different route. But here is the upper radiator hose and intake piping.



trans cooler lines and vent line hooked up.


Taurus 2 speed puller fan. Trimmed down on the top when I thought I needed more room. Ended up not needing but don't affect anything.


All hooked up.

[DER E30]

Looks like its ready to rumble! How much longer?

[jakeb]

It will be running tomorrow.
List is very short to fire it.

02 sensors, a little bit of exhaust, starter relay wiring, fuel

[jakeb]

Exhaust is the Y pipe into a 3" cat then into this huge muffler from a P series van.



Still needs piping to get it out from under the GW.

Got the starter relay wired up. THe PRND switch connector is a bit gunked up so reverse lights are not working but got it to the point it could be started!

Video of the 2ndish start...this was after the first fire where it had to build fuel pressure. It seems louder than I was expecting but it is running inside and with no hood they always seem a little louder.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EZ0K_cFOYdo

Replaced both rear brake cylinders today and the lines from the rubber line on the axle to the cylinders. Took forever to get them to bleed but seems to be good.... Might need another bleed after being driven some. Should be able to drive it in a day or so.

[ST1G]

Well damn, that was quick.

[KSanchez]

subscribed.
my mom had a grand wagoneer when I was really little. I have always been madly in love with them and hope to be able to restore one at some point in my life.
can't wait to see this all finished!!

[jakeb]

Oil Pressure Switch is, PS133, OP24731

then using the 16mm to 1/8 npt adapter from autometer. part number 2268

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-2268

Water temp is TU154


I used the autometer m12 to 1/8npt adapter (part 2277 - ) and drilled the center out to 7.4mm or .291 inch.
Turned out like this


I actually had to do this twice as the first adapter I broke...drilled it out to big and when I tightened it I snapped it off. If I did it again I would do two different things. I would first try this adapter ( Equus 9848 ) and see if the sensor fit in without drilling it out. Or if I did have to drill it out I would have drilled it one step smaller and then froze the sensor and heated the adapter then screwed them together so they fit very tight. The entire reason I had to drill it out was because the sensor part itself was a bigger diameter than the inside of the adapter.


Video of the tcase control working. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jkf4tAAOeio

gauges all working


And a couple pics of it out of the shop.






exhaust tip