Rust removal recommendations?

[Slinkface]

I'm new to the e30 scene, I just bought a 85 325e with 78k on the clock! Car was in decent shape but running rough, it had been downed for transmission issues for about a decade from the original owner that died in 2014 and his son sold it to the guy I bought it from. The last owner never had the car road legal he replaced the tranny, clutch, radiator, fan, distributer, brakes, leads, and kept up with the regular maintenance items like plugs, oil, etc. it's running decently enough now to drive but will definitely need work. the compression checks out and the valves have been adjusted but need adjusted again because I'm waiting on new motor mounts since the 32 y.o. Ones are shot and the engine moves quite a bit with torque, one of the things I'm not completely sure of is rust removal because body work is completely foreign to me. What do you recommend for the factory lift points under the frame, the little bent tabs? Beside that rusted on both sides the only real rust on the car is on the driver side rear wheel well which isn't very much, and the hood has very minor surface rust which I'm assuming just sanding will fix that. Any help at all would be appreciated, I'm wondering if it is just ok to use a cut off wheel and completely remove the tabs below the frame and seal the cuts with a clear coat or whatever to prevent further rusting? Also need recommendations on interior, the tach displays low on rpms or it least it seems like it does. It idles at 5-600 rpms and 2k is the highest I have seen is 2.9 gearing just THAT tall? Also the odometer is not working nor the coolant temp since I have gotten it and the MPG only sweeps when the car is started then stays at 0. Any help with that and how to potentially fix the dash would be a lot of help

[c0rbin9]

I have the same issue with my tach, interested in answers.

[Split_S]

Those tabs are NOT lift points. They were used by BMW to move the chassis during production. The front lift points are the rails just further in that run along the transmission tunnel. For the rear use the diff or the suspension crossmember.

As for light rust use a rust stopper. Rust-Stopper is one, there are a few. Use this to neutralize rust before filling/painting. Anything with pitting will require replacing metal - if you want to do it right.

As for your Center cluster there may be multiple issues. If you can, swap another in. The solder joints get old and cause issues.
The speedo issue may be the wiring from the speed sensor mounted on the rear of the diff. Check the two wires running from the unit.

[rturbo 930]

[Slinkface]

Ok, and thank you I have seen that post of the lift points everywhere, as if you really needed to worry about me putting load on a area that is possibly rotted out. It rained very hard yesterday and to my dismay I have a leaking windshield seal, turns out it had been bad for a while because I peeled back the driver side carpet and under the dead pedal there is about a 3"x3" hole there I need to patch now so thankfully I found my weakest spot since after finding that gem I thoroughly inspected everything else and it seems to be the only hole I have. Would you recommend just priming the metal after I remove the rust to prevent it from rusting again?

[Slinkface]

And don't get your beaver in a twist guys, I realize the whole tab isn't a lift point like anyone with common sense I was just trying To explain what I was talking about, even though right behind the fronts tires and just in front of the backs is a factory lift point for an emergency spare change, maybe I should have said the folded tab along the jack stand points? Either way my description gave you an idea of what I was talking about, so it was relevant to my cause. The things I mentioned are the only things I really am not sure about as or yet, as well as my rough idle I don't have an opportunity to test it on the road very much til I get it licensed but I think my AFM may be dirty, or need replaced. Going to check to see if the injectors are spraying when I have time later in the week because there is a misfire but I'm 90% sure it's just a lean mixture at low idle causing it.