I'm in for one set, please.
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[IMG]https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z.com-vbulletin/550x225/80-parkerbsig_5096690e71d912ec1addc4a84e99c374685fc03 8.jpg[/IMG
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Small update. Nothing exciting, but I finally got around to fixing my old broken sunroof. It was an electric unit and the gearbox on the motor was stripped out. I could have just picked up a new motor assembly, but I opted to convert it to a manual sunroof. Some might consider that to be somewhat of a downgrade, but here is my reasoning. First off, even if I get a new(used) motor, I'm not too confident in 30 year old electronics and its eventually bound to break/ stripped out again. I believe the manual unit is a little more robust. Additionally, the header panel in my car was in pretty bad shape, the vinyl was coming apart and the frame around the check panel was broken and would not longer hold it in place. I got a good deal on a complete manual swap from a friend with a pristine header panel.
The liner panel was in poor shape, so I recovered it.
Couldn't find an exact match to the original headliner material, but this was close.
Overall very pleased with the results and happy to have a functioning sunroof in the summer heat!
Originally posted by 2mAnComment
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Custom shift knob
I scavenged this ball knob off of a mill in an old abandoned power plant and thought it would make a really nice shifter. I've always liked the feel of a spherical type shift knob, so this is my take on making one. Since I don't have a lathe or aluminum welding capabilities, I improvised, making it more "modular" with all the parts threading together.
The threads in the ball are 3/8" NPT, so a 3/8" NPT aluminum pipe nipple will make up the arm. The bmw shift lever is 14mm(?) so drilling the pipe out to 9/16" makes it fit over nicely. Next, I simply tapped out the lock collar so the shaft would thread into it and drilled a whole in the pipe so the set screw can thread all the way through. I rigged up the pipe and lock collar in my drill press and cleaned them up with some sandpaper to give it a nice finish. Finally, assembled everything with a little loctite and its done.
Looks really nice for not using any legit machining equipment, in my opinion. I can also changed the length of the shifter by simply getting a longer or shorter pipe nipple and swapping it in, which is pretty cool.
Thats all for now.
Originally posted by 2mAnComment
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Really nice work so far. Looking good. Sub'd!1990 325iX - sterlingsilber metallic
1991 325i - lazurblau metallic
Originally posted by delamaizeComment
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I like that shifter setup! Definitely looks well done for the situation!My previous build (currently E30-less)
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=170390
A 2016 Toyota Tacoma TRD 4x4 Offroad in Inferno is my newest obsessionComment
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shifter setup is mint! I was dreading having to get a long dick shaped shift knob but this looks so much nicer I'll have to do it instead.Comment
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Thanks guys!
Thanks. Theres a few aftermarket knobs out there that look pretty slick, but none come close to what I'm willing to spend with my tight budget (basically non-existent lol). If you happen to already have a 3/8" npt tap and 9/16" bit, it would easily cost under $20 to make.
Originally posted by 2mAnComment
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*Overdue Update*
Finally getting around to using the garagistic bushings I bought 2 years ago on black friday haha.
I've been busy with school, but now I'm on holiday, so I hope to get it done soon!
You guys know the drill.....
Stunk up the neighborhood for a little while...
Going to be reinforcing as much as I can while I'm in there.
First made some CAD templates, and then transferred to 1/8" plate.
In addition to the usual diff reinforcements, I figured I'd throw some plate on the trailing arm tabs.
I'm pretty sure I've seen them out there before, maybe IE sells them?
Waiting to get a gas lens for my buddies welder so I can get in those tight corners on the tear drop bits.
Looking good. Trailing arms are next.. I still need to press out the flanges and bearings.
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....and heres a little teaser for whats to come in the future :devil:
More updates soon. ThanksLast edited by sampayne; 12-06-2017, 08:25 PM.
Originally posted by 2mAnComment
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I did not. The heat shield extends all the way down and sits on the frame rail and pushes up against the rad support next the radiator (All contacting surfaces protected by fuel hose). Additionally, there is a section of stainless tubing in-between the heat shield, which is sandwiched by the air filter and first elbow, which basically supports all the weight. I originally thought I would need a bracket to support the AFM, but everything is held in well with the heat shield. I can take some more pictures if you are interested.
Originally posted by 2mAnComment
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I'm curious about your ICV delete. How's that been working out? Details?1991 325i - "Scambles" The Daily Driven lightly modded.
1988 Mazda RX-7 TII "Mako" The Free Dorito
bacon by Jared Laabs, on FlickrComment
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