the Black Spot... a euro bumper '87 325is with track mods

[paynemw]

Another little update. I got the crank case vent tube o-rings and washer in from BMW, and went ahead and installed them. Here's a trick, use two small zip ties to compress the spring without having to hold it while manipulating the tube into place. PS, I snagged this pick from a dude's build on bimmerforums. Just using this as a reference:

I took the car for a drive and it idles SIGNIFICANTLY better, but it's not perfect. It still dies after a minute or two, and I want to say I'm chalking that up to five (5) month old gas. However, at the end of my small drive around the block I experienced a terrible idle issue. All of the sudden as I pulled out of a parking lot onto a 30mph street I started getting idle spikes, not surges. Like half a second long spikes, and when I went to press on the gas, it would bog down. I turned the car off during my roll then restarted. So I'm guessing this is an electrical issue. Maybe the TPS. It's probably a 200k old TPS.

back to the hustle of getting this thing road worthy again. Oh and definitely working on the damn power steering tomorrow.

[paynemw]

A little update:

Got the e30 running! However, it's running rough. I am 95% sure it's the 3-4 month old gas. So I've been looking at what to do... buy a $1200 OEM Gas tank, buy a $150 OE replacement gas tank or take the current tank down, clean the shit out of it and try to get the dents out.

I read this article, which has been pretty damn'ed helpful: https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/pr...l-tank-frenzy/

I also found this article which is quite informative on replacing the tank:

http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=97139

Also found a good early model tank (BM1A) for a decent price:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/WIGGLEYS-BM1A-FUEL-GAS-TANK-for-BMW-318i-325E-325i-325ic-325is-M3-/382042143828?hash=item58f37c7c54:g:vSwAAOSwRZBZyr7f&vxp=mtr

[pisana]

do a fuel cell in the boot

[paynemw]

do a fuel cell in the boot

I actually purchased a replacement tank. My e30 is way too clean to cut up and I want to make sure I can easily return the car to SPECE30.

I got the tank and the fuel line I ordered. It took me about 1 1/2 days to do everything - maybe 10 hours total.

Here's the tank...


I sanded it down a bit, threw on a coat of black primer and then threw on a couple coats of hammered black paint to make it look OEM


I was thinking about replacing the primer pump - but both pumps and fuel pressure regulators work just fine. Just snapped a picture of the access panel and replaced the old rubber.

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probably the original pump... still "firing on all cylinders"


I put new gas in with a new filter in the new tank and the car started without issue and it idles around 500-600 RPM, but I'm still having a "rough" idle and there is some surging. NOT dramatic, but it's there. And the car still throws a check engine light from time to time and it does die.

Here's a list of things I've done or need to check:
1. Vacuum leak down test using visual inspection AND a dope smoke test. As previously posted, I am fairly confident I rectified my vacuum leaks.
2. My ICV is functioning without issue.
3. My Throttle Position Sensor clicks (it's not a variable sensor), I think it has three positions.
4. My Crank position sensor was new before I blew the engine, but it MIGHT be too far... the mount was painted so maybe it's not sitting flush?!
5. my AFM was tested on another car and it doesn't seem to be the issue, however, this is still untested and might be the issue
6. My DME might be going, so I'll need to swap it out, just need to find a local with a 173 or the earlier DME to test
7. I only have one grounding strap on the engine now that I think about it. I need to put one on the valve cover and the one on the alternator.
8. I need to replace the coolant temperature sensor because it was reading slightly out of the threshold for operating temperature - so that might help it out.

I can't really think of anything else other than did I mess up my wiring harness when I re-installed my engine?! Fuck I hate this part of BMWs...

Any advice?!

[Garage30]

Measure all sensors at the DME connector. There is a chart somewhere on the net with all pin numbers and sensor resistances. Easy way to diagnose.

The DME almost never goes bad. Idles issues/running crap in general can be a host of things, but mostly vacuum leaks and cps issues. So check and correct cps clearance.
It can also be a simple mistake like switched gas lines.

[paynemw]

Measure all sensors at the DME connector. There is a chart somewhere on the net with all pin numbers and sensor resistances. Easy way to diagnose.

The DME almost never goes bad. Idles issues/running crap in general can be a host of things, but mostly vacuum leaks and cps issues. So check and correct cps clearance.
It can also be a simple mistake like switched gas lines.

Good to note. I did measure my coolant temperature sensor, which is not within threshold at operating temperature. Any advice on where to find the resistance readings for the pre 88 M20b25 in one location? I know they have some resistance thresholds in the Bentley manual.



On a side note... who wants some Pearlbeige Premium rear speakers? Have them listed on the facebook group.

[paynemw]

Super awesome update: I found the issues!

A little homework for you guys trying to really trouble shoot poor idle (talking small bumps between 500-600 rpm). This dude Ted has an awesome E30 Idle Frequently Asked Questions page.

I also read deep into the Crank Position Sensor, what Bentley calls the Pulse Sensor...

So anyways, onto my day. I about 6 hours with another e30 local wrencher troubleshooting the ugly duckling. At first I thought my CPS was causes issues - nope. It was the AFM. Which is weird because I helped out Stonea on his '89 325i and his car ran fine with my AFM while I was having my engine built.

To start out the morning we gapped the valves, glad I did that. We brought them into spec, they were originally way too tight. Then, I grabbed some NGK 5077 plugs. After that we went to test the AFM and the TPS. The TPS was sending bad signals, then we adjusted the throttle stop, which brought the TPS back into it's correct settings. Then I had another Stonea come over with a mint BavRest Bosch AFM. We threw that AFM into my car... - car ran like a champ. Well SIGNIFICANTLY better.

So now that I have all of that tested, I'm going to look around locally for a decent AFM, then if I can't find it I'm going to bite the bullet and snag a BavRest AFM $250!! Well with an $80 core charge.

OH! I snagged another fuel sending unit, which I believe is functional - so I swapped mine out. I'll go through the paces and see if it actually sends the correct message once I let the fuel level go down.

I also snagged super decent door rubber from this parts car AND a set of 15x8ET0 Enkei 92s... everything for about $200 Which I'd say is a deal. They do have some curb rash, but I honestly don't give a shit.



tires are shot though...



I made a ground strap for the back of the head, and I put on a ground strap for the hood. So I'm back up to 3 grounding straps (I don't need one on my alternator because I have metal to metal mounts). I also made a plug for my oil level sensor connection to get rid of the red light on my check panel. Thank you crank scraper and baffle.

[paynemw]

Err... I didn't find ALL of the issues...

So, a borrowed AFM significantly improved the idle conditions. And I got a newly restored BavRest AFM. Man look at this shiny clean thing!



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And and it's new home.... a complete e30 M20b25 airbox...


The only thing I need to complete my intake is the intake boot from the box to the headlight plastic... BMW PN 13 71 1 713 128



I also realized that my fuel gauge is reading incorrectly because it's a 55L tank with a 63L gauge. Err I hate the Previous Owner SOOO much!

Lastly, to the issue at hand. I have a new OEM Bosch Pulse Sensor (aka Crank Position Sensor), I have a new (refurbished) OEM Bosch Air Flow Meter, I have a new Bosch O2 sensor, but I don't have a new OEM Bosch TPS. However, I've read a few sites that say that the TPS does not produce a variable signal, only 3 signals; closed, open, WOT. I didn't have issues with the closed and open, I haven't tested for WOT.

The problem is the car feels like it's getting broken sensors - which would make sense. I did an engine replacement many years ago on my 2000 Toyota 4Runner and I unknowingly damaged my engine harness during the install. Given that this car is 30 years old, I'm fairly certain that I'm having a resistance issue from one of the wires that's causing a haywire signal flare to the ECU from one of the sensors. The idle only becomes erratic once the car has reached operating temperature. The car also dies from time to time after reaching operating temperature. Turning the car off completely then starting it back up seems to temporarily fix the issue.

I did install a ground strap on the hood, another from the valve cover to the OEM grounding point on the passenger shock tower, and of course the grounding strap from the oil pan to the frame is installed. They are clean too.

Measure all sensors at the DME connector. There is a chart somewhere on the net with all pin numbers and sensor resistances. Easy way to diagnose.

The DME almost never goes bad. Idles issues/running crap in general can be a host of things, but mostly vacuum leaks and cps issues. So check and correct cps clearance.
It can also be a simple mistake like switched gas lines.

I also found this badass diagram, thanks Garage30.


ECU Pinout and Electrical tests E30

[VBe30]

I see you tested the blue coolant temperature sensor, but have you replaced it yet?

[htseng]

I had an 87. Loved that truck unfortunately somehow it caught on fire when i loaned it out one night


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[paynemw]

I see you tested the blue coolant temperature sensor, but have you replaced it yet?

I replaced it with a newer "looking" sensor I had from a parts car I snagged recently. However, I found this sweet way to test it again with the new one....

I put in an order for a OEM Bosch Throttle Position Sensor, a new brake pad sensor and an ABS relay. My attempt to fix it didn't go so well. Unless there is something else I need to do to fix it.

Lastly, I put the E30 to the test today by taking it to the last AutoX event of the season in the local SCCA chapter. Surprisingly, I didn't really have issues with the idle, however I had other electrical issues.

I walked outside this AM to hearing a weird sound, from what I thought was the car, then it didn't sound like the car. It was the power mirrors just "powering" all on their own. I remembered from when I did my door skins that the previous owner ran a bypassed power wire to the switch. I pulled the driver's side kick panel off, pulled the speaker and realized that one of the jerry-rigged wires from the center of the dash looked like it went into the door. In order to get to the AutoX event in time, I cut the power wire to the power mirror switch. and drove to the event to get into the line for tech with 15 minutes to spare.

While waiting in line, I taped off the wires, tucked them away, and put my door skin back on while I pushed it up to tech.

I also ran 5 strong runs. A high 43second run to start down to a 41.5second run. WHICH was only 5 seconds slower than a highly built e46 (trailered on slicks with tons of aero) and a highly built e36 (also trailered on slicks with more aero). So, the issue didn't really rear it's ugly head but once while waiting to start.

RUN 1 43.230 +1
RUN 2 42.964 +1
RUN 3 41.853
RUN 4 41.928
RUN 5 41.597

I need more Aero! I can't wait to hack up the extra Trunk Lid and the Hood to get head vents and throw on a HUGE duckbill spoiler.

First I'll replace the TPS, then I'll try to test the resistance to each end of the harness.

[paynemw]

Small update over the holidays.

I didn't have a ton of free time to work on the car, but I did at least do some reading in the Bentley and online to find these gremlins. I also had my dad drive around in the car with me for a while. We determined it has to be a signal issue associated with either coolant temperature sensor or something that sends the control signals to the ICV. The

Next, I worked on my intermittent driver's side window functionality. That was quite painful. The PO cut the power wire that runs through the door plug to the connection to the window motor. Of course, he used crimps... and they weren't done very well. So I spent an hour soldering a new wire in. It didn't actually fix anything. I think I'm having an issue at the relay or somewhere in the harness to the switch. It's not the switch, I have a bag of them and have tested a handful.

I replaced the ABS relay, but it's clearly not the ABS relay. After re-reading the ABS Problems page from e30zone.net and it sounds like I might have a sensor issue or a wire issue. It's never ending man...

Here's the replacement ABS relay I put back in the car. Of course my fix was still good, but now I know it's something else...


I did more research and found some interesting stuff.

So, I'm guessing this has been created before, but I wanted to put it together for myself to better understand all the modes of operation. This is a first pass, so I'm sure there's things wrong, so let me know and I can fix it.

This is how I understand it, btw. Obviously it has the "semi open" idea in there, too -- which may or may not be correct.

Hopefully it's fairly self-explanatory, but basically I took the 5 related engine sensors and tried to identify 1) how do these factor in to the DME's map-choosing logic, and 2) which sensors are actually used as inputs in the maps.

For sensors that are "Not used" under certain situations, I put the reason(s) in parentheses afterward.



Probably one thing I see I can clear up already is the last column, as that sort of applies to everything, not just WOT situations. Also, regarding this, I've only seen Scott's (Ranger) mention that there's a degradation of performance after about 205 degrees.

Of particular note here is that, and something that may be contested, is that it seems to me that the AFM is NEVER used as a source of input to dictate a fuel map change. Instead, at 4500 RPM and WOT, the DME ceases to use the actual input and makes assumptions from that point on. That said, it's possible at >4500 RPM the DME will NEVER use the AFM input (regardless of WOT) -- in which case I need to fix the "High RPM w/o WOT" column to *not* use the AFM. Edit: For this same column, I imagine another question would be: is the O2 sensor used at high RPM if there's no WOT signal coming through?

Som

I also found this cool article that discusses the differences between Motronic 1.1 and 1.3

BUT back to working on the damn car!

I purchased a Bosch "Throttle Position Sensor" which is really an Idle On Off Switch, or an Idle Switch. You have to remove the Throttle Body to properly install the part and of course my Throttle plate was not set to spec using the "set screw" which is really to prevent damage to the plate. After setting that set screw, the plate is now set correctly, and you can install the new Idle switch. While reading through the Bentley manual, I couldn't successfully get continuity from prongs 2 and 18 so we had to open up the slots a little to get more adjustability out of the part. You can see the ever so slight amount of grinding we did to get more adjustability:

That adjustability gave me continuity at the idle position and .004 in from the set screw. Then I got the continuity from 15* to WOT. I couldn't achieve the prescribed 10* as per the Bentley manual. So when looking at part numbers, realOEM provides you BMW PN 13631710559. When searching for this PN, you return Bosch PN 0 280 120 321 which is the most commonly found Idle Switch. It's approximately $50. However, the switch that came off my car was Bosch PN 0 280 120 310. I've only found this once or twice while searching, which is $100. Mechanically, my OEM Idle switch did not require any manipulation or modification to work, but because it didn't produce continuity when required, I used the new idle switch.

[paynemw]

So, the other day i was poking around the internets looking for research about aerodynamics and such as it applies to the e30 chassis. After realizing that the SPECE30 guys don't mess with it because they can't, I figured only a few people really look into it. Chump and lemon guys, and any HPDE or TT folks.

So, the first question I had was, where to do the choppin?! As a kid I never knew why the cowl induction hood worked so well, but this picture helps explain that. All of the pressure at the cowl plus probable low pressure under the hood sucked it right on in.

but I know that's probably not the most efficient way of doing business given that we don't have a V8 and we our airbox is way up front.

Another r3v member posted this picture that made me think about heat extraction AND encouraging air movement through the driver's side headlight area.


So when I saw suggestions, I thought about that this was probably the smartest application of science, but I might adjust it to just the driver's side and center.

Here's how he did it:

And underside of the hood:

And given this probably has a significant amount of money in it, I'll use this as confirmation that the center vents are proven:

And this is just science!

Now, what say you?! I tell you what, but I'm stoked to start choppin' on my hood and build some aero for the trunk lid.

[paynemw]

Stomp Test works... I get a 1444 code, no faults

I am SO freakin' heated with this issue. I get 700 RPM when cold, but then after running for a while at operating temperature, it goes down to 500-400 RPMs... then it'll die. I've tested EVERYTHING and or replaced everything.

So I'm down to thinking about building a new harness. A buddy whose been posting on the r3v Facebook page and I have been talking about building new M1.1 harnesses. Let's see if I pull the trigger.

Check out my buddy's harness work!











My hope is that I can first, fix this harness, than possibly build a 2nd harness and replace it one day.

[sampayne]

I've always thought about doing a custom harness too. Seems very daunting though... Definitely interested to see it come together if you go for it. sub'd