91 318is Field Rat

[fresh_TD]

Those 2 wires are for the euro cars (not catalytic converter) and cause the 'hot start' issue if connected. Leave them disconnected.

What he said

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

[downforce22]

Those 2 wires are for the euro cars (not catalytic converter) and cause the 'hot start' issue if connected. Leave them disconnected.

[captain awesome]

I'm back from vacation. I took an extra day off to tinker in the garage before going back to work though, and it was rather productive.

Trans fluid changed
Diff fluid changed
Oil filter, housing gasket, and o-ring to get rid of the leak
Exhaust stud welded in
New header nuts torqued
Slave cylinder line

Then I dropped the engine/trans in, installed all the shifter linkage with new delrin bushing up front, poly bushing at the rear, z4? shifter, shifter cup, selector joint, driveshaft with new giubo and csb. I took a break for a while and then started connecting the engine wiring harness and rear coolant lines, dropped in the new radiator, e-fan, and that's where I'm at now. I've still got to cut some new rubber fuel lines in the engine bay, connect the air box, wire the COP kit, hang the exhaust, and buy a new fuel pump.

I did have one question on the engine harness, for some reason these two wires were disconnected on mine(I think), but it seems odd. Anyone know if they remain disconnected?

[captain awesome]

Not much of an update, but I stumbled on a couple good deals that just couldn't be ignored. It's been too hot to do much lately, but I'm hoping to get back into things when I get back from vacation.

Brandy new Nissens rad for $90 shipped:





And a AEM wideband/AFR gauge for $80. Originally I was going to get an Innovate LC2 but with this being so cheap I figure it's worth a shot:

[captain awesome]

So I did some math today and it was kinda depressing how much cash I'll still need to get the turbo going. I've got a handful of items left to just drive it N/A so I've set a new goal. BMW CCA has a driver school in mid October called No Excuses 10. I'd like to make it out there, and I know it's possible if I put aside my boost plans. I'll hopefully order a few parts Friday to get me running real quick like.

Tonight I managed to JB Weld the horn nub I broke a couple months ago. I also finally fit the cheap peace of shit Boss hub steering wheel hub adapter and OEM horn ring JB welded on to it. It cancels signals properly now, and with a little effort I should be able to get the horn wired up. The wheel you see in the pics was a cheap $25 wheel I got on ebay to see if I needed a wheel with a deep dish or just a flat one before dropping big bucks to find out the hard way. As soon as I get some test miles in I'll know which way to go.









I'm not a fan of the gap left by the crappy Boss hub. Seriously don't buy the piece of crap, just spring for the Momo and be done with it. I'll be getting one before too long when funds allow.



I also messed around with the exhaust manifold studs cleaning up the threads. The studs for the collector were all broken off my "good" motor, so I pulled the field rat manifold to use instead. It only happened to have one broken stud, so I Dremeled off the spot welds so I can tack in a new one.

[captain awesome]

Last night I snapped a couple pics of turbo location. I'm getting worried that I don't have enough space to connect cold side without possibly clocking the housing. Luckily the wastegate is independent of it, so it won't require too much effort to do so. I've decided to drop the motor/trans back in the car and start test fitting to really see where problems arise before I get ahead of myself. Also it's hard to tell if the oil drain will be uphill from where I'd like to tap the oil pan.

[captain awesome]

I finally got to try the first test fitting in the low mount position. It "should" work with the stock motormount arm from what I can tell. There are a couple things that will need to be addressed though, first being the motor mount heat shield. I removed it for the test fitting, but I believe it can be trimmed or bent to continue it's shielding job.

Worst bit of trimming however is the bellhousing clearance with the wastegate arm. It looks fairly straight forward, and really the only option other than switching to external. I tried to swap the manifold as a top mount and unless I make a different mid-piece to orient the turbo and still clear the valve cover/head it's just going to be more work. I'll fiddle with the oil drain height to see if it will require a scavenge pump. I would assume it would have been mentioned in some of the older install info I found, but don't believe it was ever mentioned.

[captain awesome]

Got the turbo and manifold delivered in person by Dgerry and he didn't disappoint. We had quite a chat about options, components, etc. and he graciously offered assistance along the way. I've also sent some Pm's to SSSquid about getting a PNP Megasquirt setup that should help me get going quicker, just need to save up for a few weeks.

[fresh_TD]

Good work!

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

[captain awesome]

I'm trying to stay busy, so yesterday I scrubbed as much sludge as I could off the front of the motor.







And after an hour or so of scrubbing.

[cheffy30]

very impressive. would love to find a car to build with my son...

[captain awesome]

I have an old T25 that is just taking up space, not sure of specs but if you want it to potentially use or rebuild into something else, lmk. Its yours for the cost of shipping

I appreciate the offer, but I'm not sure if it will be needed at this point, as the one I bought with the manifold has been professionally rebuilt and upgraded to a billet compressor wheel, along with ceramic/powder coating.

[2mAn]

I have an old T25 that is just taking up space, not sure of specs but if you want it to potentially use or rebuild into something else, lmk. Its yours for the cost of shipping

[captain awesome]

I'm putting together a list of parts needed for the turbo install, and figure I'll lay it all out and see if anyone has suggestions or comments that may push me in the right direction.

I'll start with what appears to be the most important choice for FI. PNP ECU, Megasquirt 2, or chip from SSSquid? My gut says spend the $1200 on the PNP setup and save myself some tuning headaches since it would have some sort of base tune to start with. My wallet says to buy an assembled MS2(I don't have the patience for soldering something like this) and do my best to figure it all out. I don't know squat about tuning other than some light reading, but I would like to give it a shot I think.

Also, I'll assume a manual boost controller would be a good start. I'll also assume that a BOV in this application is needed? Please forgive my ignorance.

From what I can tell a high mount 27x7.5x2.5 intercooler should be plenty for the boost/power level I'll be running at.



I've been told 30-32lb injectors should be enough to support the boost range I'm in, however from seeing other builds on here it appears a lot of them are 42lb or higher. Am I going to be limited with the 30-32 range? Part number 0280155831 should work, but I'm going to dig around for any alternatives.



Innovate LC-2 seems to be the wideband go-to for everyone, but I'd really like to keep everything analog if possible. I found an analog gauge from Innovate that I think is compatible, just need to verify first as all the photos I see for the kit show LC-1 on the harness.

[Sirotto]

Very cool.