Chapter 3 - 84 318i m-tech - M60 powered.

[Holland]

I am cutting off the round 20 pin C101 and turning the chassis side to 25pin C101. It was originally square plug c101 that I've cut off and turned into round 20 pin when I did my M30 swap. I don't see any reason to make an adapter, since I have to run some wires such as check engine, speed sensor separate as they aren't even part of the chassis harness on my car. Just want it to look clean and factory looking.

It looks like the DME end might just reach into the glovebox area...otherwise I'll probably just have to extend all 60+ DME wires or build some kind of box to sit where the battery was like it does on e32/e34 cars and add cooling for it.

I was thinking about doing this for my 24v swap to be honest.

Late welcome back though. Looks like we both had our cars sitting for quite some time.

I am curious, for brakes are you using all of the factory hard lines for the brakes? I'm debating whether I should use what I have or try and use the system off of a 325i?

[Jean]

Hey! Thanks for the welcome back :)

Yeah, all of the rear hard lines are oem and soft lines were replaced about 4 years ago. All the hard lines in the engine bay are brand new including soft lines. I had issues with calipers not releasing so I've swapped all those out for new/rebuilt units as well.

[Holland]

Hey! Thanks for the welcome back :)

Yeah, all of the rear hard lines are oem and soft lines were replaced about 4 years ago. All the hard lines in the engine bay are brand new including soft lines. I had issues with calipers not releasing so I've swapped all those out for new/rebuilt units as well.

I was always concerned with the proportioning on converted M10 cars, or the lack of the additional brake circuit like the six cylinder cars. so far it looks like I'll have to use the M10 master cylinder and see how it does with larger brakes.

[Jean]

Prior to this swap, when I had my m30 in there, I was using stock front valve and the rest was all 325 stuff front to rear and it worked just fine on the street and in autocross . The front inside (from what I remember ) would lock up first under very heavy braking even in r compound tires .
The 6 cylinder cars have the same single line going to the back of the car where it splits at the subframe to the left/right rear calipers . The difference is on our cars without abs the master had 3 lines coming out of it vs 2 on abs cars where the abs pump was in a way a splitter . With the current setup one master handles the front brakes and one handles the rear, proper way to get the brake bias is with the balance bar on the pedal box and also sizing the masters to the calipers from what I've read and learned after talking to guys who are way smarter than me in this area .

Now, what I did was removed the oem delay valve at the firewall area and replaced it with a wilwood 2in 3out valve that has adjustability to dial on/off rear brakes. It's not exactly the same as the prop valve or remote balance bar adjustment (there is no room to add one with the current wilwood / Garagistic pedal box setup , I tried ), but it should let me do some tuning of rear brakes in relation to the fronts.

I have no idea how well it's going to work, the masters and calipers / rotors are properly selected so will just have to see once I drive it and I'll report back.

My backup plan is to ditch the whole current pedal box and go with a floor mounted box for a couple of reasons . Easy of service/maintenance and adjustability , and proper pedal alignment . I really don't like how the gas pedal and clutch / brake pedals are currently setup in relation to each other .

[Holland]

Prior to this swap, when I had my m30 in there, I was using stock front valve and the rest was all 325 stuff front to rear and it worked just fine on the street and in autocross . The front inside (from what I remember ) would lock up first under very heavy braking even in r compound tires .
The 6 cylinder cars have the same single line going to the back of the car where it splits at the subframe to the left/right rear calipers . The difference is on our cars without abs the master had 3 lines coming out of it vs 2 on abs cars where the abs pump was in a way a splitter . With the current setup one master handles the front brakes and one handles the rear, proper way to get the brake bias is with the balance bar on the pedal box and also sizing the masters to the calipers from what I've read and learned after talking to guys who are way smarter than me in this area .

Now, what I did was removed the oem delay valve at the firewall area and replaced it with a wilwood 2in 3out valve that has adjustability to dial on/off rear brakes. It's not exactly the same as the prop valve or remote balance bar adjustment (there is no room to add one with the current wilwood / Garagistic pedal box setup , I tried ), but it should let me do some tuning of rear brakes in relation to the fronts.

I have no idea how well it's going to work, the masters and calipers / rotors are properly selected so will just have to see once I drive it and I'll report back.

My backup plan is to ditch the whole current pedal box and go with a floor mounted box for a couple of reasons . Easy of service/maintenance and adjustability , and proper pedal alignment . I really don't like how the gas pedal and clutch / brake pedals are currently setup in relation to each other .

The more you mention it, the more it makes me want to go the route you are going honestly.

[ArtFoodBMW]

It's great to see another proper v8 thread being built here. Keep it up Jean!

[Jean]

And she is alive :) Not everything is connected , but wanted to see it fire up . Open headers,
Will clean up the wiring and plug the rest of it and wire the cluster tomorrow.

First start after 4 years , starts right up after this initial start now that fuel pressure is there.

https://youtu.be/oFh0wxlEDz0

[flyboyx]

rockin'!!!!!!

[slum dog]

NYC watched your video, a good sign all your hard work has payed off. I was wondering if you have more pics of your manifolds cause I am also going to use my stock manifolds. Thanks

[Jean]

Thanks ! I'll take some photos of them now that they are on the car and painted . It's a very tight fit , especially around the steering shaft (plan on moving it over 1/4") and passenger footwell area and starter casing.

[Jean]

Pinned out and connected rest of the sensors, new o2 sensors installed and exhaust is on.
Blue coolant is in, but has a very small leak somewhere around water pump :( FML

Here is the idle video and walk around - https://youtu.be/RQ7bFhYAbBs
It's got a lifter tick, hopefully will go away with running .



I got these new exhaust doughnuts but they seem to be way different, I am guessing they will take the shape if you squeeze them enough or did I get the wrong ones?

Old one, and new one.




13522 sensors is what I ended up using on both sides, shortest leads.

[Jean]

Since I haven't seen anyone post some good clear shots of the exhaust using 4-2-1 manifolds I tried to capture these.

[Jean]

Last few, engine bay shot...got some work to do with wiring clean up.

And shot of the stupid coolant leak under water pump :/






Ugh

[jpod999]

Jean- what are you thinking of doing in terms of DME mounting? The wiring doesn't look like it will accomodate the M42 mount unfortunately.

[Jean]

Jean- what are you thinking of doing in terms of DME mounting? The wiring doesn't look like it will accomodate the M42 mount unfortunately.

I take it you tried and it doesn't work ? I am going to tackle wiring clean up tomorrow , today I dealt with coolant system and exhaust some more and got the 2nd diff mount installed .