The Blunderwagon - 89 325iX touring 3.1L stroker

[b5dover]

you have to fill it with something. On the ix it's just a small hole that goes to the pump, on the RWD car it's a big peice that threads in. You can't just leave the valve there either because now you will have two (one in the pump and one on the block).

I don't know how you would do it because once I saw the differences, I just used the ix block (even though the RWD block I had was way nicer). I have heard of somebody machining a plug with a hole in it.

ix block:


RWD block (best picture I have, sorry about the crank scraper in the way):


You can see with the pump right next to the RWD block why it won't work so easily. There's also nowhere for the extra bolt that holds the pump to the block.

You are thinking of my post... It is absolutely possible to use an i block in an ix.

https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?p=3055207#post3055207

[kronus]

^^ yup, that was pretty much the only documentation of it I've seen.

when I converted mine, I took detailed pics, will be posting a DIY.

[D.Martijn]

Also interested in a write up about the engine :D

Did you go with new OEM tie rods or OCAP ones?

On the transmission there are spots for the mounts (at least on mine) and I've been thinking how I'd be able to get some more support back there. A single mount is cool and all, but imagine more support back there...

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

There are no mouting points at that section on the body where the transmission mounts would go that you are talking about. I mean when you push and wiggle on/at the transfer case there is little movement..

[kronus]

Also interested in a write up about the engine :D

Did you go with new OEM tie rods or OCAP ones?

I shot for the middle price point and ended up with some MTC units. MTC is not a stellar supplier, but IMO better than OCAP. They at least came painted and with new lock plates included.

[kronus]

after a thrash and a rampage and some exhaust fabrication, it's a car again



(h/t Julien for the shot)

exhaust -

[D.Martijn]

Car is looking great! Exhaust sure looks tight up in there, great work.
How does it sound?

[kronus]

It sounds ok. The exhaust is nice and deep, and the mid muffler/x-pipe managed to quiet down the stormung drone substantially.

I'm chasing down some other noises that are happening, though, so can't listen to the exhaust quite yet. Getting a loud belt hum from the front of the motor and a honk-like noise from the left CV at low speed in turns. Just more stuff.

The 3.1 feels good power-wise. Not completely mind-blowing, so it's likely that there is more left in the motor that a better tune could evoke.

[BreadMan]

Following from the east coast. I'll say that from 3000 miles away this car shows darn well. Tell us more about specs for the 3.1 stroker.

[Bimmerman325i]

Following from the east coast. I'll say that from 3000 miles away this car shows darn well. Tell us more about specs for the 3.1 stroker.

You're not wrong, it is a 3000mi-er!

[kronus]

it's a bimmerheads motor - serial #188

85mm bore
89.6 stroke crank (S52 or M54, unclear)
s50 rods 135mm
comp 9.75:1 forged pistons
race head
+1mm valves
272 cam
HD rockers
TI springs
IE long tube headers
Gates racing timing belt
ARP hardware throughout



I've basically been driving it on the startup tune for the last week. At some point soon it should be getting a proper one, which I'm looking forward to.

You're not wrong, it is a 3000mi-er!

it true true

[BreadMan]

So once you've had enough your only buyers will be from out here. So keep us (me) posted.

Really, this thing is radical. I love my ix coupe -- until a new post for this car pops up.

Short driving clip after the tune, please.

[kronus]

thanks! it's come a long way but definitely has a long way to go. I'll get a clip together - actually growing happier with how it sounds.



off the top of my head, the current list of things that need to be addressed:

urgent

- motor has a top end rockery noise, needs a valve adjustment
- exhaust leaks need to be addressed - aiming to take the midpipe down, grind down the welds and try to get any leaks closed up
- exhaust hangs low due to flex joint and no support for midpipe, needs a hanger somewhere on the trans brace
- motor burns a decent amount of oil and smells like it.. :[
- leaner tune
- DS front strut is stripped, needs to be replaced. I have a pair of bilsteins to go in, aiming to reinstall stock front iX springs at the same time for dat 4x4 stance


soon

- catback needs to be have its mounting ears straightened
- rust hole next to muffler needs to be closed up with a patch plate
- rust holes under taillights need to be treated with converter and sealed up
- headlights are abysmal, need to be re-wired and probably replaced if I can't get the lenses to be clear again


before the winter

- aftermarket fogs + mount
- mudflaps
- tear down driver's seat, replace collapsed foam bolster with decent one
- variety of cosmetic issues
- rear valence needs repainted
- tow bar needs removed, bumper and shocks replaced
- rear suspension needs all the bushings tossed at it
- rear calipers need to be rebuilt and painted
- rear rotors need to be turned
- rear brake lines need to be swapped for coated SS
- diff needs to have its toasted VC swapped for a good one. might just swap in the full set of 3.91 diffs I have stashed.

[BreadMan]

I've got good condition front IX springs and rear x3 springs (I think) that the PO had on my coupe. Provides proper 4x4 status -- the rear springs eliminate the IX rear end sag. PM if interested, I have to dig out of garage for picture. Shipping cost from NY + some very very reasonable amount.

[kronus]

I've got some E36 springs sitting in a box somewhere that should accomplish the same. thank you, though!

[pandaboo911]

Nice I got that same muffler, although with a single 3" inlet. How deep does it fit into there? Does it hang super low under the car?

Needs sound clip :D