Project Facelift
Collapse
X
-
We're almost home... :D
Unseasonable warm temperatures have kickstarted my desire to get this DONE! So as soon as I got home from work today, I went out and carried out one of the last steps of this rear valence swap, and got all the bare metal primered with self-etching primer. The great thing is that all the welds are covered in body seam sealer, so they're safe. I hit all the spots of bare metal on the valence, all the bare metal around where the bumper shocks mount, and any place else I saw naked sheet metal, including all the old mounting holes for the diving board skins. All I have to do now is get this sonuvabitch undercoated and painted, and it will be finsihed.
More to come very soon, I hope!
Leave a comment:
-
-
We cut it flush with the trunk wall so there is nothing for water to get trapped in. And, like Josh said, undercoating.Leave a comment:
-
-
-
I don't think they knew you were painting/undercoating the inside of the valance as well.Leave a comment:
-
See several times mentioned throughout this thread. Self etching primer, rubberized undercoating, paint. Nothing will be left prone to rust.Leave a comment:
-
The purpose of the cap is not only to blend but to keep road debris and water from being throw in between to the two panels where it can collect and cause it to rust.

Did you put anything between the two panels in that area to keep that stuff out?Leave a comment:
-
-
I never really realized those holes...
Josh, I bet we can get some rubber plugs from Miller Lumber to seal them up. They have all kinds of stuff like that.Leave a comment:
-
Those holes go straight into the trunk. If you dont fill or cover them, you will get all kind of crap/water in there. I just did a temp fix on mine. Still gotta seal mine up for good.Leave a comment:

Leave a comment: