Originally posted by backtrail69
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Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205
OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827
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Originally posted by Eurospeed View PostZING!
Whatchu talkin bout, Tigger...
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Originally posted by nando View Postneeds a bumper tuck. :giggle:
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Def needs shadowlined glasses trim.Recent Rebranding!!
Visit Garageaholic for all of your E30 Swap Needs!
E30 SM62/S62
E30 M60 V8
E30 M30 Big 6!
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I hate to say it, but damn, I think my daughter could do better welding than that!! JOSH???????!!!!!!?????????
Prep work is 99% of the work follows along here too.
You need to weld that thing completely on. Not that stitch garbage every foot. that is going to crack the bondo in a few months(I know you wont see it) BUT the rust will see it.
sorry to be the neg one.
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+1 on not leaving the stitches. I know why your welder stitched it, but to leave the stitches and not do the complete seam? C'mon. When you are driving the rear valence will move a little from the wind and, hopefully not, a possible bottom out/uneven surface. That, and those stitch welds, will definitely cause the prep/paint to crack.
Tell him to go to harbor freight, pick up their little flux-cored mig machine for 140, set the speed, low heat, and finish up that stitch welding.....please. And to keep the metal from possibly warping, throw a wet rag on the inside of where the welds are going.
JonMy 2.9L Build!
Originally posted by Ernest HemingwayThere are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games.
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Originally posted by mikeedler View PostI hate to say it, but damn, I think my daughter could do better welding than that!! JOSH???????!!!!!!?????????
Prep work is 99% of the work follows along here too.
You need to weld that thing completely on. Not that stitch garbage every foot. that is going to crack the bondo in a few months(I know you wont see it) BUT the rust will see it.
sorry to be the neg one.
The apron is very securely mounted. The welds, thought they admittedly do look like shit, are plenty strong and are burned through. All of the areas of bare metal will be sprayed with self-etching primer, and the whole area up into the existing body in the bumper area will have rubberized undercoating reapplied, which will fill in the VERY small gaps, and then painted.
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trent
miked and pierced, there is no reason to do an entire seam. I did my setup the same way, and it will be fine. IT isn't like there are cuts or riffs in the panel that will cause it to "prep/paint to crack"
This is more than acceptable. By your stupid theory cars should be seam welded, which they are not.
Besides, MORE welding could possibly mean MORE rust on the back side.
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think you know it all if you want, But I have seen plenty of SHAVED mini trucks in my days, and it all cracks. ask a REAL Body guy too, he will tell you that that stitching on an outside body panel is crap. I am not knocking either of you REALLY--- both cars are super clean, I just know from EXPERIENCE, that will suck up water, after it cracks in a few years and rust VERY fast. do what you all like, im just trying to be helpful.
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Originally posted by mikeedler View Postthink you know it all if you want, But I have seen plenty of SHAVED mini trucks in my days, and it all cracks. ask a REAL Body guy too, he will tell you that that stitching on an outside body panel is crap. I am not knocking either of you REALLY--- both cars are super clean, I just know from EXPERIENCE, that will suck up water, after it cracks in a few years and rust VERY fast. do what you all like, im just trying to be helpful.
Mariano
2001 Titaniumsilber 540i Sport 6-Speed
1990 Diamantschwarz Alpha-N 2.5L ///M3
1986 Alpinweiss 325e M50B25 (R.I.P.)
-Talk to me when more sound comes from the induction than from the exhaust...
-Argentina........lo mas grande que hay.
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When Im in Germany again, Ill give you attention. ;)
Mariano
2001 Titaniumsilber 540i Sport 6-Speed
1990 Diamantschwarz Alpha-N 2.5L ///M3
1986 Alpinweiss 325e M50B25 (R.I.P.)
-Talk to me when more sound comes from the induction than from the exhaust...
-Argentina........lo mas grande que hay.
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Originally posted by mikeedler View Postthink you know it all if you want, But I have seen plenty of SHAVED mini trucks in my days, and it all cracks. ask a REAL Body guy too, he will tell you that that stitching on an outside body panel is crap. I am not knocking either of you REALLY--- both cars are super clean, I just know from EXPERIENCE, that will suck up water, after it cracks in a few years and rust VERY fast. do what you all like, im just trying to be helpful.
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Ya, I was the one welding them. Between the crappy Schucks welder and all the burning undercoating, they came out looking like shit. Good penetration, but they look bad. I really need to pick up a good welder, just don't have the cash.
Oh, it is a flux core welder, not MIG by the way.
And Mike, it will be fine the way it is. The whole thing is going to be undercoated and then painted so there will be no metal exposed to the elements for moisture to get to any of the metal.
And as far as cracking, the metal or the welds sure as hell isn't going to, so I don't know what you are talking about.
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