What we did to get the positioning right was to mount the bumper, and then we adjusted the valence, so the gap was the same all the way around. And that "goop" is automotive body seam sealer, and that's not all that's holding it on. When we first put it on, we used screws just to get it in the right position. After it was all adjusted properly, we welded it with 2-3" welds every 6-8", and then used the seam sealer to completely close the gap.
And Mike, you can call me crazy, but I prefer the look of the standard E30 body to the M-Tech II.
I was actually wondering about that. Do I need to? They aren't bare metal, and even if they do have any spots that are scraped bare from the threads of the bumper skins, I'm going to be re-undercoating the whole area.
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He welded it on, that "goop" is seam sealer, so water doesn't get in behind there. I plan to rivet mine on. I have one sitting behind my car with some rust issues I am going to address and is skirts in front that I am going to paint at the same time.Leave a comment:
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ill take that tech2 please. ill even pay shipping.
finally, you bonded this thing on. ive been waiting.
was there anything there you could easily go by on height/adjustment/ where to put it.??
is that goop all you used to attach it? or are there a few screws in it too?
ive been wanting to do this for a long time to mine ...Leave a comment:
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are you going to be sealing the holes where the rubber piece covered the aluminum bumpers...Leave a comment:
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the more i see updates,
the more i really want to get rid of my Mtech2.
Love the look.
Keep pics coming.Leave a comment:
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Alright, ALRIGHT!
Just a small update, the Fuzor body seam sealer worked great! We did the full seam today, with a continuous bead all the way around, starting from inside the wheel wells and out across the whole valence, and we covered the welds, as well. Tomorrow if the weather stays pleasant, I'm going to etching prime the bare metal, and possibly get the undercoating sprayed on.
The seam sealer is a very wierd product, just a very strange concistency. It's very much like Bondo in the way it comes out of the tube and spreads, it's really easy to spread, but kind of sticky. I just smoothed it out with my fingers, working it into all of the open areas, and as it was exposed to air, it smoothed out really nicely with very smooth, glossy finish. It's just about dry now, and is setting up very well. It is a bit messy looking, but that's just from spreading it. Once it's all undercoated, it won't be visible anymore, anyway. This rear valence swap is nearly finished!
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