Sonny's Weak M10 Build

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  • Sonny
    replied
    Don’t do what I did and forget the brake dust cover. Luckily I had not torqued down the nut so I pulled the bearing out and redid it

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  • Sonny
    replied
    Sonny's Weak M10 Build

    Meyle hubs on success

    Today she is getting new locking nuts put on for control arms as I don’t trust the old ones anymore after the drop of tire. She drives solid so far and I want to thank you all for helping me !:) anything else I should do while at it?


    The insides of the locking nuts that mount control arms to subframe near engine mounts seem to look like they were pushed out?

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  • Melon
    replied
    I've been sig'd!

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  • CMBusch
    replied
    Originally posted by Melon
    Engine work takes patience and finesse.

    Suspension work takes anger, a big fucking hammer, and a torch.
    Also,
    Sig'd

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  • CMBusch
    replied
    Ok! Post a video? Yeah I skipped reading pretty much everything but just wanted to put my 2 cents in.

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  • Sonny
    replied
    Originally posted by CMBusch
    Hey Sonny,



    Glad to see that you finally got around to making a build thread.

    I would honestly recommend having these three things as priority:



    1: Cooling System - Flush the rad and system, new water pump, new fan clutch. If you're really going to go for an electric fan, I would avoid ebay and go with a Spal if anything. The stock mechanical fan is perfectly adequate but make sure the engine mounts aren't trashed.



    2: Suspension - Replace bushings (especially worn ones), shocks and springs, sway bars, tires. Look out for worn suspension parts like bushings, ball joints, etc. Replace and upgrade as necessary. Shocks and spring kits are a good option because coilovers are not always the best suspension solution depending on the application. With an early model 318, I would assume your car doesn't have a rear sway bar. Try to find front and rears from a convertible or 325 or aftermarket. Tires are important, you don't need to drop a ton of money on Michelin Super Sports but make sure they're at least decent. Having a sorted suspension will make the E30 more fun to drive regardless of power.



    3: Manual Swap - Swap it to manual, the car will be much more fun to drive. Driving slow cars fast is more fun than driving fast cars fast IMO.


    Yes thank you! I have done the entire cooling system, car is a 5 speed, and also did a suspension refresh.

    I ended up messing up by not torquing a wheel down correctly and dropped it. I’m dealing with a clunk right now that happens on driveways and speed bumps if you may know what that’s causing the issue. Thank you!

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  • CMBusch
    replied
    Hey Sonny,

    Glad to see that you finally got around to making a build thread.
    I would honestly recommend having these three things as priority:

    1: Cooling System - Flush the rad and system, new water pump, new fan clutch. If you're really going to go for an electric fan, I would avoid ebay and go with a Spal if anything. The stock mechanical fan is perfectly adequate but make sure the engine mounts aren't trashed.

    2: Suspension - Replace bushings (especially worn ones), shocks and springs, sway bars, tires. Look out for worn suspension parts like bushings, ball joints, etc. Replace and upgrade as necessary. Shocks and spring kits are a good option because coilovers are not always the best suspension solution depending on the application. With an early model 318, I would assume your car doesn't have a rear sway bar. Try to find front and rears from a convertible or 325 or aftermarket. Tires are important, you don't need to drop a ton of money on Michelin Super Sports but make sure they're at least decent. Having a sorted suspension will make the E30 more fun to drive regardless of power.

    3: Manual Swap - Swap it to manual, the car will be much more fun to drive. Driving slow cars fast is more fun than driving fast cars fast IMO.

    Leave a comment:


  • Melon
    replied
    Originally posted by 2mAn
    Its a spider coming to get you

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  • 2mAn
    replied
    Its a spider coming to get you

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  • Sonny
    replied

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  • Sonny
    replied
    Originally posted by Powling
    Did the clunking sound happen before you had your wheel fall off incident? Or has it started after that happened?


    It started just after, I did the suspension refresh because there was clattering on rocky roads. Now there is no more , but she is very sketchy in the loud clunk when entering any driveway, and I’m afraid to go over 40mph in a straight line

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  • Powling
    replied
    Did the clunking sound happen before you had your wheel fall off incident? Or has it started after that happened?

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  • Melon
    replied
    Originally posted by Sonny
    If you want some trailing arm bushings I have new Febi that I can mail you out for free, mine were replaced by previous owner .
    Every bushing on that car is new, but thanks tho.
    Feels tight like tiger, but with harder materials comes more NVH.

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  • Sonny
    replied
    I will try doing more shaking. It just seems the clunk is deep and I feel it in the floor board , the same frame rail the control arm mounts to

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  • Sonny
    replied
    Sonny's Weak M10 Build

    Originally posted by Melon
    Jack it up, put it on a stand, and then use the jack to compress the suspension slightly, see what you notice. Also, just put a wrench on all the bolts, from the strut tower to the subframe, make sure they're all tight.



    Also, my rear end makes clunking noises, I think it's the powerflex bushings. Because I've checked it three times, nothing is loose.


    If you want some trailing arm bushings I have new Febi that I can mail you out for free, mine were replaced by previous owner .

    Leave a comment:

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