Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

A semi restoration (sans paint) of my '87 325i convertible

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #31
    Here's an update. My throttle body heater gasket thing was fubar'd from the three retaining screws rusting into the aluminum. I tried drilling it out but unfortunately I'm not very good at that being that I don't own a drill press. In '87 the throttle bodies were slightly different from 88+ and I was worried my cruise control wouldn't work with the newer type. I was lucky enough to find one exactly like mine on ebay and took a $70 gamble that the screws weren't rusty... and as you can see, I now have a working throttle body heater!
    Click image for larger version

Name:	sPMzvJn.jpg
Views:	144
Size:	65.1 KB
ID:	9898580
    (I also bought a brand new $100 coolant tank, justified by FCP's lifetime warranty program...)

    My car's drivers door lock didn't match the rest, likely owing to a break in at some point in the car's past, and although I'd solved the problem with a keyless entry, it was time to fix it entirely. At work we do car keys so I used the machine to identify my original key's bitting and ordered the $50 rebuild kit to fix the lock! I followed along with a video I found online and once I worked out how to start it wasn't a very difficult process. I also replaced the burnt out light bulb inside the key.
    Click image for larger version

Name:	D583QX0.jpg
Views:	67
Size:	77.6 KB
ID:	9898581

    I managed to acquire a set of cardinal door cards but I had to paint my rear inserts, seatbacks, and handles to match. I used duplicolor fabric paint, and the match is very close, especially considering the cost difference to do it perfectly. I don't have any pictures, but I took apart both seats to replace the 8 gas struts that allow for recline and adjustment, as well as the braided cords that connect the recline adjusters to the seat bases. Mine seemed like they had stretched so I threw another $85 "fixing" that problem. If anyone does this, be aware the part numbers on the realoem diagram are actually for 6 series sports seats, which are larger and have longer lines. I found the correct one under a diagram for a euro spec car, and picking the equivalent part numbers that were described as a shorter length. ECS backordered one of my lines, saying it had to come from Germany, and we all know that means you're basically fucked, but luckily it came in 3 weeks later! One of the mounting tabs that allows the seat back to attach to the base had broken off, which had to be welded back together and painted. This means my seat back had to be taken apart again, foams and all. Pictures came in clutch here, as 3 weeks passed between disassembly and reassembly.
    Click image for larger version

Name:	SSi77rr.jpg
Views:	63
Size:	50.1 KB
ID:	9898582



    it's a Kenny Powers quote on wheels

    Comment


      #32
      I wired up the motor, wired up the dash, then realized I forgot to install the upper steering column trim, and promptly broke the ignition switch trying to mash the trim in. I reattached the broken wire with the soldering iron and was treated to the slightly alarming smell of 1980's electronics. After that was done I plugged everything back in and started the car. It took quite a long time for the fuel pump to pressurize the system enough for the engine to start, and when it did it ran very rough. While checking for leaks I found a small wet spot underneath my external fuel pump. I was trying to avoid replacing this but sometimes life has a way of cutting your work out for you, and another hundred dollars later I started the car again and the engine ran much smoother. So naturally then my starter went out. It worked at first but a few days later I moved my car outside to clean the garage and it wouldn't crank. You turn the key to START and nothing, just silence except for a few relays clicking over. I checked my connection at the battery, which was good. I swapped in the battery from another car and had the same results. I tried engaging the starter from the diagnostic port, which eliminates the possibility of a dash wiring fault, and had the same results still. Finally I tapped on the starter motor with a long socket extension while jumping the diag port, and it came to life!

      What likely happened is the leads inside the solenoid corroded while the starter motor sat in my humid garage all summer. Mike came over and we banged out the new starter install, as well as my $50 Ireland Engineering facebook special exhaust, and got the car finally to a state where it could run continuously while the exhaust manifold paint cured and the cooling system could be bled. We let it heat up, and then we drove it. And it was beautiful.

      My car needs an alignment, and a new brake light switch somehow, and a new set of tires just because. I'm leaning towards Falken Pro Touring A/S, which have a modern tread compound with more silica, and come in 195/60/14, which is what I want to run given my car's height.

      We put the hood on and now it's "done!" Except for my coolant level, of course. And maybe some hood foam. And the damn windshield strip, which is probably going to be postponed until warm weather. And a strut brace, as soon as I can find something cool enough.
      Click image for larger version

Name:	zSYPVCC.jpg
Views:	124
Size:	89.0 KB
ID:	9898591

      Drove her to get some gas. The car badly needs a wash. It's such a weird feeling driving around in this now. It's very surreal. I'll be running the bottle caps for now until I find a set of style 10's, but for the immediate future I'll be focusing on WRX swapping my old Legacy wagon.
      Click image for larger version

Name:	56r9X34.jpg
Views:	68
Size:	84.5 KB
ID:	9898592



      it's a Kenny Powers quote on wheels

      Comment

      Working...
      X