My Update! (cable/dsl only)

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  • winfred
    replied
    told ya it was going to be ass happy with that fat bar, it's around 1mm fatter then my mutant rear bar, it'll be interesting to see how it balances out with a ic front, mine is pretty close to dead on but you are a good bit lower then me and have the other choice in front suspension

    Originally posted by PiercedE30
    The ass end is soooo easy to slide around now. I've got the stock 20mm front in place for now. I'll probably put the convertible 21mm on next weekend. But the slides are soo predictable and so easy to control it's just ridiculous.

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  • PiercedE30
    replied
    Haha, I didn't even see that you guys had said anything about it. Yea, it is pretty obnoxious. Especially since I cruise at like 80 mph and 3900RPM's.

    Oh, I got my new rear sway bar put on. I took an MCoupe rear bar (19.5 mm) and since the legs are about 2.25" too long, I simply cut that much out and TIG welded it back together and put a sleeve over the weld to help strengthen everything. It was such a bitch to get mounted in place. I still need to go back and put in a plate on the inside of the trunk so that the bolts don't pull through or anything. I need to cut the ends off of the bar so that they aren't as close to the springs as they are at the moment (less than about half an inch).
    The ass end is soooo easy to slide around now. I've got the stock 20mm front in place for now. I'll probably put the convertible 21mm on next weekend. But the slides are soo predictable and so easy to control it's just ridiculous. Sucks that the next AutoX for my region (CenLA) is in July since we have 2 TLAC's before then. But I will see if I can make one of the Delta events next month. Or, I will just wait until the Picnic and go drift with Erick and the other guys that will be there.

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  • So Live
    replied
    D-BAG status FTMFW!!!! When i put the 3" on my car NA it was pretty stupid loud too lol

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  • golde30
    replied
    Originally posted by PiercedE30
    Here is a video of one of my runs. I believe this was my second run which was, I believe, a 53.2xx. Which was before increasing the rear tire pressures by 2 psi. I NEED a pair of resonators to get rid of the metallic sound. In the video, you can barely hear it, but when I get onto the "straight" going to the back of the lot you can hear the engine cutting up due to my high intake temps, thank you heat soak.
    HAHAHAHA my e30 sounds VERY similar to yours. freakin loud. its really a bitch to drive around town without looking like a total D-bag...

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  • So Live
    replied
    So no dice on the exhaust cam set up? Ive been asking all over the place and no one knows for sure. People on BFc say to PM urinemachine!

    Id like to try the cam set up but im hesitant because of the whole valves and contacting pistons kinda thing.

    I might jsut have to try it myself and try to orient the lobes exactly like they should be with the right cam there.

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  • PiercedE30
    replied
    Yea, whenever I open up the throttle above like 2500, it is obnoxious. But under that just cruising around town it has a nice burble to it. I really need to just re-do my whole exhaust so that I'm not hitting my swaybar any more.

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  • So Live
    replied
    Thats pretty sweet dude. Car sounds a little obnoxious :)

    Yeah, something must be up with my gauge. Its reading about 330 I have to take some readings of the oil manifold i made with the little laser temp thing when i go home next. If its that high im gonna copy your setup :) Hope you dont mind. What size lines did you run? 10's?

    Get the IAT thing figured out and do some runs :)
    Last edited by So Live; 04-21-2008, 08:50 PM.

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  • Unleashed603
    replied
    those are some bad ass camera skills right there.

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  • PiercedE30
    replied
    Here is a video of one of my runs. I believe this was my second run which was, I believe, a 53.2xx. Which was before increasing the rear tire pressures by 2 psi. I NEED a pair of resonators to get rid of the metallic sound. In the video, you can barely hear it, but when I get onto the "straight" going to the back of the lot you can hear the engine cutting up due to my high intake temps, thank you heat soak.

    Leave a comment:


  • nando
    replied
    Originally posted by PiercedE30
    Well, we had our 2-day divisional event today and yesterday. Southwest Divisional with SCCA. I didn't get any pictures but here are some pictures. We had 100 total entries. A lot of them from Texas, since the 3 other divisional events are in Texas, and a lot of people from all over the state. It was a lot of fun. I wasn't able to get the care to rotate very well until today when I got serious with playing with tire pressure. Saturday I was running 37/39 (F/R) and today I went to 40/39 (F/R) and today, that made ALL the difference. I was able to run the same time, if not faster, than my buddy in his '98 BS M3 (which should technically be in BSP). I also realized that I NEED to move my air intake temp sensor out of the intake plenum and into the intake tract. I was getting BAD heat soak and it was breaking up on the top side due to not injecting enough fuel (thought it was fuel starvation at first since I was under a half tank). I also had to weigh my car before and after my runs on Saturday. Before my runs I was at 2680 and after I was at 2674. Used up 6 lbs. of gas (roughly 1.5 gallons). I've got a lot of little things that I need to do this up coming weekend.
    if you don't have a chance to relocate the IAT, you can use the MAT correction table under the advanced menu. I was able to get my AFRs to be flat despite heat soak that way - of course it works better N/A, as it's much less susceptable to high intake temps, for a turbo a better IAT location is more helpful. mine is flat up until about 20c and then it goes up quite a bit to ~50c.

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  • PiercedE30
    replied
    I'm not exactly sure. I need to get a new sending unit since I can actually spin the sensor by hand (autometer sensor). I believe it is around 180. When my water temp gets up to operating, my oil pressure hasn't even dropped to 25 (warm pressure). It usually takes about 15-25 minutes to get my oil temp up enough to drop the pressure.

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  • So Live
    replied
    Sounds like a blast dude.

    I have a question for ya, whats your oil temp once warmed up? I think i need a cooler or my gauge isnt working right.

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  • PiercedE30
    replied
    Well, we had our 2-day divisional event today and yesterday. Southwest Divisional with SCCA. I didn't get any pictures but here are some pictures. We had 100 total entries. A lot of them from Texas, since the 3 other divisional events are in Texas, and a lot of people from all over the state. It was a lot of fun. I wasn't able to get the care to rotate very well until today when I got serious with playing with tire pressure. Saturday I was running 37/39 (F/R) and today I went to 40/39 (F/R) and today, that made ALL the difference. I was able to run the same time, if not faster, than my buddy in his '98 BS M3 (which should technically be in BSP). I also realized that I NEED to move my air intake temp sensor out of the intake plenum and into the intake tract. I was getting BAD heat soak and it was breaking up on the top side due to not injecting enough fuel (thought it was fuel starvation at first since I was under a half tank). I also had to weigh my car before and after my runs on Saturday. Before my runs I was at 2680 and after I was at 2674. Used up 6 lbs. of gas (roughly 1.5 gallons). I've got a lot of little things that I need to do this up coming weekend.

    Leave a comment:


  • PiercedE30
    replied
    Ok, I found some pictures. Sorry they are enormous.
    Yes I know I need to do another valve cover. The crappy yellow keeps peeling.






    Here are some pictures from my cell phone.






    I'm still waiting from one of my friends to upload their pictures from the caravan down there.

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  • PiercedE30
    replied
    Here's a link to the local forum thread with the pictures for the meet.

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