Nicademus' 1986 325e Journal

[Nicademus]

I put the "Hartge" wheels on today and popped some dents out with my $20 dent popper from Fred Meyer:









Suddenly some things stopped working:

- mph gauge
- window switches
- oem stereo

My number #12 fuse was blown and I replaced it. I pushed that circuit breaker button in and out above the stereo and still nothing. The lights on the stereo light up but it won't don't anything or show anything on the screen? I tried entering the code a couple time on it anyways. Still nothing. I own an extra breaker button so I may try switching them.

but

At least my car runs again! :D It wasn't running about 5 days ago.

[Stephen]

I think the car is going to look good once its been dropped a bit, with those wheels, hot!

[Nicademus]

I think the car is going to look good once its been dropped a bit, with those wheels, hot!

Is your car just sitting around in California or our your parents keeping it running every once in a while? Too bad you don't have it here.

[Stephen]

Is your car just sitting around in California or our your parents keeping it running every once in a while? Too bad you don't have it here.

No they drive it, its alot more fun than the Xterra, altough the same might not be siad about the z3... but it gets use..

[Hick]

p slots



good looking car, love those wheels.

[Nicademus]

p slots
good looking car, love those wheels.

Yeah I love the Pslots. Does anyone have those on an e30? I appreciate the compliment about my car. I take great pride in it and have been keeping it cleaner then my IS300....

[Nicademus]

Today I removed my idle control valve (ICV) and gave it a cleaning. It cleaned up great and looked like new. Not sure that it made a difference though? I also removed the plastic from the bottom of both door jambs and cleaned under it using Meguiers quick detailer spray. While doing the ICV I also just did some random cleaning in the engine bay.


Help :(
My #12 fuse keeps blowing immediately when I put a new one in and turn on the power. Still no:
- windows
- mph guage
- radio
It really sucks and I don't know why its happening.

Lastly I bought another set of wheels...yeah I've got a problem. They're some oldschool 14" Enkei wheels. The condition of them is great; no curb rash, no bends and two excellent tires:

*Picture from ad

[kronus]

If you're blowing a fuse, the solution is not to put another one in. Go look at the ETM and figure out what that fuse powers. Then, check that part of the harness and look for shorts to ground (which typically cause fuse blowouts)

I don't recall what fuse #12 is offhand, but if it's at all related to the cluster, there's most likely a loose solder joint in the cluster's electronics.

[Nicademus]

If you're blowing a fuse, the solution is not to put another one in. Go look at the ETM and figure out what that fuse powers. Then, check that part of the harness and look for shorts to ground (which typically cause fuse blowouts)

I don't recall what fuse #12 is offhand, but if it's at all related to the cluster, there's most likely a loose solder joint in the cluster's electronics.

Thanks for the chart :)

I only put one in and it blew and then I tried something and put another in and it still blew. How do you look for grounds?

Fuse #12
- radio
- speedometer & indicators
- On-board Computer (which now that I think about it isn't working either)

No mention of power windows being part of #12 though? hmm? (Fuse#17 is power windows only)

[Stephen]

Now all you need is some daytime shots :P

[kronus]

The body of the car and most exposed metal is typically grounded. In the harness, brown wires with no stripes are usually ground.

Fuses blow when too much current goes through them, to protect other parts of the circuit, so a fuse that blows when the power is turned on suggests to me that something is shorting to ground (drawing too much current) which is powered off the switched +12V system (which is only +12 when the ignition is in the on or start positions). The Bentley manual gives a description of what each fuse does somewhere in the last few pages. List out those components, disconnect them all if you can, put in a fuse, and if it doesn't blow, work from there. Start putting components back in, and once the fuse blows, you know which component is causing a short.

A good way to look for shorts is with a test light. If you have a Bentley, they detail it there pretty well. If not, googling for "how to use test light" gives some promising results.

Good luck, and don't lose hope. Electrical troubleshooting always sucks dongers, but it's doable in e30's by us amateurs because e30 electrical systems are relatively simple :)

(although in a more complex situation, when one tiny little thing goes in a computer for something or other, you have to replace the entire thing, which is easier than repairing part of a more discrete system. Kind of a flip side in the time vs. cost field)

[Nicademus]

Lucky for me a bought a Bentley yesterday on here and supposedly I should have it tomorrow. I have the radio unhooked already I guess that's not it right? Could wires from the radio touching each other cause it?

Why won't the windows work then if they aren't on that fuse?

[kronus]

Radio wires could indeed be shorting. Make sure they're not.

Not sure about the windows.

[Nicademus]

Radio wires could indeed be shorting. Make sure they're not.

Not sure about the windows.

Why are you up? I'm up because I'm a weirdo and do this nightly.

[kronus]

Well.

I've been working on school assignments since roughly 6 PM. Starting a particularly confusing CS assignment now. The plan is to break for sleep at 4 AM, wake up at 8, and learn a semester of econ before 11. Then, class until 6. Then, 6 hours to finish the CS assignment and submit it before 11:59 PM. Then, more work.

I think I've been on 4 hours of sleep a day for the last 3 weeks.