Japandrew73's OEM Euro Restore

[Japandrew73]

A nice little update today.

What have we here?

Take a guess, it's pretty obvious...

Yes.

I took a closer look at it and saw little gunk on it and i was like "oh great they sent me a piece of shit bumper"

but i took a microfiber towel and lightly rubbed and it came right off.

So reflective

So I have all the chrome together and Now come the trim pieces. The mounting kit is in the mail and will be here any day but it doesn't really matter unless i have the trim pieces.

I also found the correct wiring for the headlights.
the part number is this: 61 13 0 007 445
Even though in the diagram off realoem.com it looks like just the rubber "L" shape, it comes like this...

Everything is sealed and it's pretty much a complete piece.
I ordered 8 for all high beams and low beams.
It just slips into the connector and snaps down to hold it in place permanently

[Japandrew73]

So I got my Headlight wiring from the Dealer Today and Got 4 of those green wires with the "L" shaped rubber plug on the end.

Here is my old sketchy wiring that was waiting for a fire to break out

It was a simple enough procedure, just put the two wires into the plug housing and clip closed

Then Wire up

I found out the grey plug housings I had are not for the windshield washer pumps and the high beams, they are just for the windshield washer pumps. The mysterious White connectors I had for on the High beams. So I need The same wire deal I got except with a straight rubber end instead of the "L" shape. You can see in the pic it fits in the High beam.

So I wired up both Main beams, safely, the way the Factory would have done it.

Then the mail came.
It brought some fun goodies. I got a new washer pump (courtesy of Matt-B) for my intensive tank and the Front Bumper Mounting Kit.

As you can see in this pic the intensive pump i originally had (left) had the bottom nozzles broken off.

Here it is installed with the New grey plug housings. It just needs the tubing to be run correctly and a few wires and a new valve and the Intensive feature will be functional. I would do it but I am VERY low on cash at the moment.

Here is the Euro Chrome Front Bumper Mounting Kit. It comes with the two plastic covering caps which is awesome because it saves me about $13 dollars I thought I would have to spend on them later.

I have nothing else coming in the mail right now because I need to pay off some debt to my parents for overdrafts :p So more progress will come soon. All I need now are the trim pieces and lights and the Front bumper will be on.
From there I could go euro rear bumper first and the euro front valence or opposite. I think I want to go Euro Valence First because that's just as much a part of the Euro look as the bumper is.

Also, I have done some research about the Headlight Vertical Aiming System. It is a definitely a possibility to get it functioning but is the least of my concerns until my bumper project is complete.

[kronus]

Nice. Did you put that mounting kit together yourself, or does someone sell it as a package?

Also, should I keep you in mind if I take off my euro valence? It's straight and has recently been stripped and painted alpine, so the finish is smooth and not textured. I'm looking for the late kind because I want to keep the lip I had, so the early-early kind I have will come off at some point.

(also please let me know if you come across a later-style early euro valence)

[e34john]

I have that whole wiring kit too but my Euros are hacked on like any other good R3ver would do. Maybe this weekend I will get them hooked up right. Those wires and connectors are pretty pricey for what they are.

[Japandrew73]

I have that whole wiring kit too but my Euros are hacked on like any other good R3ver would do. Maybe this weekend I will get them hooked up right. Those wires and connectors are pretty pricey for what they are.

not really. if you look in the for sale section I am selling my extras for $7 shipped a pair. PM me if you want a pair.
the wires that go in the plug housings are $6 each from the dealer. Part number for them is: 61 13 0 007 445

Nice. Did you put that mounting kit together yourself, or does someone sell it as a package?

Also, should I keep you in mind if I take off my euro valence? It's straight and has recently been stripped and painted alpine, so the finish is smooth and not textured. I'm looking for the late kind because I want to keep the lip I had, so the early-early kind I have will come off at some point.

(also please let me know if you come across a later-style early euro valence)

You can buy each piece individually or buy the whole kit as one. It came as a kit for $55 from Blunt. The Part number is: 51 11 9 057 083

And YES definitely keep me in mind for your euro valence. I want to try my best not to piss away my money on the outrageous price shipping would be to ship a euro valence. I'll let you know when I will have the money for it. (somewhere around a month when my bumper is complete and on) and I will let you know if I come across a late style valence. But please reserve the euro valence for me if you can.

[freeride53]

nice build bro.
i want some euro spec headlight wipers!

[Japandrew73]

nice build bro.
i want some euro spec headlight wipers!

Thanks. you know how to instal it if you do get them! just read my thread from the start

[YAN-3]

I love threads like these. keep up the good work and keep snapping photos.

[featuring france]

how every early e30 should be restored. so jealous about minty bumpers.

[Ben Carufel]

Andrew, I thought you'd enjoy this since you're into OEM stuff :).

You should ditch those blue plastic crimp connectors and go with OEM BMW crimp connectors and heat shrink tubing. This is how it would be done at the dealership.

There are three different sizes of crimp connector. I recommend you order a handful of each, as they're cheap and good to have on hand:

CABLE CONNECTOR 0.2-0.5 MM 61138353746 $0.56
CABLE CONNECTOR 1.0-0.75 MM 61138353747 $0.56
CABLE CONNECTOR 1.5-2.5 MM 61138353748 $0.56

You can also get OEM heat shrink tubing. It's clear and is really good stuff -- when it shrinks, the inside becomes gooey and "glues" itself to the wires on each end to provide a 100% watertight seal:

SHRINKING HOSE P/N 61131379833 $1.12

You'll need a decent crimper and a decent wire stripper. Get them at Radio Shack or a hardware store. I really like Klein or Greenlee electrical hand tools. Invest $25 in a good crimper and $25 in a good stripper and you'll have them for the rest of your life. Home Depot carries both brands.

You might want to also get a nice heat gun. I have a Milwaukee 8977-20 (http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-8977...4584345&sr=8-2), which is a good middle-of-the-road heat gun. You definitely want one with adjustable temperature control. Also get the accessory kit (for my gun, it was #49-80-0300). The accessory kit has a cool "reflector nozzle" which will shrink the heat-shrink tubing evenly all at the same time, so that you don't have to try to twist the wire around to shrink all sides of the tubing.

You'll only be stripping about 1/4" of insulation off each wire with the OEM connectors. You'll see how much to strip after your first few tries...

Here are some pictures of the OEM crimp connectors and heat shrink:

[Jean]

Nice job man! I don't even want to ask how expensive that bumper was lol...

[Japandrew73]

Andrew, I thought you'd enjoy this since you're into OEM stuff :).

You should ditch those blue plastic crimp connectors and go with OEM BMW crimp connectors and heat shrink tubing. This is how it would be done at the dealership.

There are three different sizes of crimp connector. I recommend you order a handful of each, as they're cheap and good to have on hand:

CABLE CONNECTOR 0.2-0.5 MM 61138353746 $0.56
CABLE CONNECTOR 1.0-0.75 MM 61138353747 $0.56
CABLE CONNECTOR 1.5-2.5 MM 61138353748 $0.56

You can also get OEM heat shrink tubing. It's clear and is really good stuff -- when it shrinks, the inside becomes gooey and "glues" itself to the wires on each end to provide a 100% watertight seal:

SHRINKING HOSE P/N 61131379833 $1.12

You'll need a decent crimper and a decent wire stripper. Get them at Radio Shack or a hardware store. I really like Klein or Greenlee electrical hand tools. Invest $25 in a good crimper and $25 in a good stripper and you'll have them for the rest of your life. Home Depot carries both brands.

You might want to also get a nice heat gun. I have a Milwaukee 8977-20 (http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-8977...4584345&sr=8-2), which is a good middle-of-the-road heat gun. You definitely want one with adjustable temperature control. Also get the accessory kit (for my gun, it was #49-80-0300). The accessory kit has a cool "reflector nozzle" which will shrink the heat-shrink tubing evenly all at the same time, so that you don't have to try to twist the wire around to shrink all sides of the tubing.

You'll only be stripping about 1/4" of insulation off each wire with the OEM connectors. You'll see how much to strip after your first few tries...

Here are some pictures of the OEM crimp connectors and heat shrink:

wow. you did your homework. that's pretty cool, thanks. At some point I will probably do this, but for now i'm going to focus on the euro bumpers.

I don't even want to ask how expensive that bumper was lol...

not much actually.

about $125 shipped to my house for the chrome center piece
about $70 shipped to my house for the chrome sides
and about $55 shipped to my house for the mounting kit
all I need are the trim pieces and it will be a pretty good deal for a euro bumper (brand new not to mention)

[Ben Carufel]

wow. you did your homework. that's pretty cool, thanks. At some point I will probably do this, but for now i'm going to focus on the euro bumpers.

I would do it sooner rather than later. Those blue crimp connectors are not water tight at all. You don't want water to start corroding your connections.

[Japandrew73]

I would do it sooner rather than later. Those blue crimp connectors are not water tight at all. You don't want water to start corroding your connections.

oh i guess i didn't show a pic of them complete. i wrapped it all in electrical tape so i think that will cover it for a while at least

[Ben Carufel]

oh i guess i didn't show a pic of them complete. i wrapped it all in electrical tape so i think that will cover it for a while at least

Ok, in that case, you're good to go for a while :).

But someday, you can do it the "OEM" way and be 100% OEM with your installation ;).