You riveted the fuel pump ground? Haha!
Have you used rivnuts?
Thread is motivating for me to get some progress done!
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I think im going to wait a bit to test start the motor, maybe until the car is pretty much finished. mostly because I have several open ports (intake,coolant) for gauge sending units so Ill probably have to wire up the gauges before I try and start it.
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working on the wiring harness a bit I rivet the power distribution box to the firewall and secure some of the lines. ford specifies a maximum 60" distance from the battery to the PDB so that really determines where I can mount the PDB because I also am limited by the location of the ECU in the engine bay. the battery will be located centrally in between the fuel cell an the drivers seat on the backseat
i wire up the fuel pump and connect the lines so can rivet the cover/floorboard in place. the PDB provides power for the fuel pump so no relays to worry about wiring up.
heres my coolant overflow reservoir location
i will run a little bit of line to keep and coolant from leaking out onto the front passenger tire path if the car gets hot or something. once the system is settled in no coolant should exit the tank.
Last edited by hkv; 10-01-2019, 12:45 AM.
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Originally posted by b5dover View PostThat isn't technically a MAP sensor (though it does measure pressure), Ford refers to it as a TIP (throttle inlet pressure) sensor. It uses the TMAP (temp and MAP) sensor in the manifold for speed density calculation but the tip sensor in the charge air cooler is used for throttle plate delta pressure measurement. Basically the TIP value determines turbo wastegate canister duty cycle to try to maintain a given delta pressure across the throttle body to improve throttle response by always having a surplus of boost available whenever desired MAP (torque) goes upTIP (throttle inlet pressure) does make more sense as the proper name for that sensor to me although I will say that the instructions I have as well as the wiring harness refer to it as a "TMAP"
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That isn't technically a MAP sensor (though it does measure pressure), Ford refers to it as a TIP (throttle inlet pressure) sensor. It uses the TMAP (temp and MAP) sensor in the manifold for speed density calculation but the tip sensor in the charge air cooler is used for throttle plate delta pressure measurement. Basically the TIP value determines turbo wastegate canister duty cycle to try to maintain a given delta pressure across the throttle body to improve throttle response by always having a surplus of boost available whenever desired MAP (torque) goes up
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fabricated and welded up the MAP bung
here it is in the car
view of the engine bay as I wire everything up and get it ready.
engine is very close to being operational. I may start it as a test to see if I get any DTCs on Tuesday.
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not even trying to be too arrogant but I think I really finessed the F*** out of this motor swap judging by how close so many of the gaps are. gaps between the firewall and MAP,intake manifold, starter, HPFP. drivers side motor mount clearance between the alternator and steering rack, tranny and tunnel and all that. most of it was luck but some of it was skill and vision lol.
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so I bolted the engine up and holy cow what a pain that was, I wish I had drilled the engine mount bolt holes one size bigger to make it easier but I got it done.
here you can see my freshly painted undercarriage and that I wasnt cheating by supporting the engine with a jack.
here you can see I chopped the firewall a bit because I thought I needed to fit the engine but I think what happened was it was just really hard to get the engine in position with that corner poking out but it probably would have fit if I could have managed to get it in place but the intake manifold was getting stuck.
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Originally posted by LowR3V'in View Postdayyym looks like a motorcycle engine in there.
Why does it need a map after the cooler and in the manifold? electric bov?
im not sure to be honest, it is a dual MAP/IAT sensor though so I think its supposed to measure charge air temps/pressure. but its not at all far from the map on the intake manifold so it doesn't exactly make sense to me but I at least understand why its good to have a IAT reading post intercooler instead of just right by the filter so the ECU can tell if the intercooler is heat soaked or not. I don't think ill have that problem though. my intercooler is 3 times bigger than the mustang intercooler.
it does have an electronically controlled BOV but that is pre intercooler so I don't know.
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Originally posted by rzerob View PostAre you considering painting the whole car orange? Or was this always the plan to just paint the engine bay orange? It is kind of funny to me because it looks like chevy orange and it is a ford engine in a bmw. Regardless it looks good.
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dayyym looks like a motorcycle engine in there.
Why does it need a map after the cooler and in the manifold? electric bov?
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Are you considering painting the whole car orange? Or was this always the plan to just paint the engine bay orange? It is kind of funny to me because it looks like chevy orange and it is a ford engine in a bmw. Regardless it looks good.
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also gave the front subframe a fresh coat of paint, I grinded a good amount off to weld the motor mount so it needed it.
im going to wire wheel the cabin side of the firewalls to remove rough/sharp edges and then clear coat them. and I will bolt of subframe and engine and all the other stuff but I do have to do a modification to the intercooler. turns out this motor uses 2 MAP sensors; one on intake manifold and one post intercooler. so I have to fabricate a bung for the intercooler map and weld it either to my intercooler or too the intercooler piping post intercooler. that's no big deal.
once I have the motor bolted up I will drop the rear subframe and then bolt on the driveshaft and the trailing arms and then bolt it back up. then I will work on the ford wiring harnesses and get the thing wired up pretty good and I may do a first start on the motor in a few days just as a test. and I also have a separate wiring harness for all the lighting to deal with as well. brakes also I need to run lines for.
edit: by the way everything seems to fit good so I think the drivers section of firewall is going to work no issues. theres a port on the back of the intake manifold that is close but probably fine, wont know for sure until I have the motor bolted in place.
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finished the engine bay firewall and the fuel cell firewall and sealed them up pretty good. painted the underside of the car and the engine bay and the motor mounts
then I put the motor back into the car and set up the fpr and lines a bit
grommets as suggested, they look good and protect the lines.
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