so close!
my German import touring project : S52 / z3M coupe 5 lug + full rust repair
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So I have run into an issue where the slave explodes when I go to bleed the lines and the shaft shoots like a missile inside the transmission. The first time I blamed a semi suspicious slave cylinder. Then it did it again with a brand new FTE unit.
I have pulled the transmission twice now and am beginning to doubt the combination of parts. Problem is I am using a no label no markings, unknown manufacture aluminum LWF. Paired with a OEM clutch and pressure plate for e36 m3. The pivot fork had an unusual divot which I think it unrelated, and the clutch fork pivoting point seemed OK but may be worn also.
I can not be here again. So ordered up a JB LWF / e34 m5 clutch / e36 m3 pressure plate, brand new pivoting fork, front and rear bearings as well as a new steel clutch fork pivot / FTE slave (again.)
With these pieces, I know that the mating between the transmission and motor components are absolutely correct and then I should not have any issues once the final turns are made.
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In other news, I finished the cooling system and ran the motor with the previous mentioned set up. Motor runs and overall the project seems all very close to some inevitable ending.

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This is coming along great ! what are you missing to "finish" it ??
keep the updates coming !Leave a comment:
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Ah nice. Thanks for sending those photos. Yeah my car is Euro and did not have that connector for AC. I will likely get the relay / spal wiring kit and get it all wired up with a new power source. Hopefully will be getting to this stage here shortly.This is from an 89 325is with AC. The small 3 prong plug was hooked up to the front electric stock fan. Here is how it was told to me to set this spal pusher fan up. In order to get power to the fan you use the black/blue wire (high speed) from this plug and connect it to the spal fan for (+) and the brown wire fro ground (-). On the radiator you install an 82 degree switch and use the wires from the stock plug that was in the radiator.
thanks againLeave a comment:
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This is from an 89 325is with AC. The small 3 prong plug was hooked up to the front electric stock fan. Here is how it was told to me to set this spal pusher fan up. In order to get power to the fan you use the black/blue wire (high speed) from this plug and connect it to the spal fan for (+) and the brown wire fro ground (-). On the radiator you install an 82 degree switch and use the wires from the stock plug that was in the radiator. Again there are 3 wires but you twist the black and black/brown together and put on a spade connector and then the green/black on the other spade connection.
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
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hey- didn’t catch your comment earlier.
did you use the stock wires that has the connector behind the driver taillight to get power to the spal fan? If so did you twist the low and high speed cable together and installed them both on the plus side of the fan connector and the ground on the minus side or did you just connect the ground and high speed?
funny we are pretty much at the same state in our swaps and we both have a Blake Minson harness
I am considering running a relay and wiring to make the spal fan run single speed HIGH only.
curious, can you take a photo of the connector behind driver *headlight you are referring to ?
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did you use the stock wires that has the connector behind the driver taillight to get power to the spal fan? If so did you twist the low and high speed cable together and installed them both on the plus side of the fan connector and the ground on the minus side or did you just connect the ground and high speed?
funny we are pretty much at the same state in our swaps and we both have a Blake Minson harness
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Great job on rust work!!!
I love Toyo Proxy tires.
I’m using RA1 on my e30’s.Leave a comment:
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Threw on the front fenders / valance / bumper and working on buttoning up the cooling system:
using Koyorad radiator / Spal push fan

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Got a little busy for the last couple months but a few things got sorted out. Expecting to ramp back up and finish this thing here soon ~
One thing is I got the wheels sorted out, at least for now.
BMW style18 et46 16x7.5 just running a casual square set of 225/45/16 toyo proxes r888

The front calipers are basically smushed into these 16" wheels, which I expected would be extremely close.

Good thing though there is just a bit of material that needed to be shaved off of the outer edge of the calipers to get this wheel to free spin. Rears are good to go ~
Here is the car - first time it has rolled under it's own weight in a long time and it was very satisfying to see it sitting *outside of the garage.

My expectation is that the car needs about 15 hours left to complete...
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just were not enough hours available and I missed my e30 picnic deadline- but no sweat, here is a recap of the final push in the two weeks prior to picnic.
- full wiring interior
- full wiring motor
- main trunk battery cable and all motor connections installed
- rear seats and carpet installed
- installed rear subframe / brakes and suspension (GC coilovers poke through the trunk area above fender arches and required slight modification to fit with the touring rear end)
- dip stick tube weld
- final paint touch ups, hvlp / hardener single stage
- under body rubberized coating
- fuel system re installed, (tank) and all new lines
- OEM paint tint belly coating with raptor liner
- wheels arrive Wednesday, will be going with e36 style 18 z3 wheels- 16x7 ET46 - plan to run square 225/40/16
- still looking for seats but have a set of 996 GT style black leather seats that will work until I find black leather e30 sports.
- all fluids + motor oil
final things to do are a short test fire, then throw together the final bits of the cooling system


it'll all be done soon.
feels like it's getting close ~Leave a comment:

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