Back Yard Shed

[fannman]

you dont have to use 2x6's for 24" spacing on studs. you would if this was a house with a increased amount of weight load it would have to carry. also 2x6's are mainly used on outside walls or extreme load bearing walls supporting a girder truss. on all the sheds I have built, I used 2x4's on the walls and spaced them 24" apart on 8' or lower walls. If it is higher than 8' we space them 16" apart.

George has a pretty good idea on what he is doing. also to make it easier on you if you have access to a framing nailer or can borrow one it would really make the job faster and easier for you. if you use one shoot 16 penny nails in the studs and on plywood use 10 penny nails just incase if you didnt know.

the osb on the floors should be fine if you paint a few coats of ext water rest. paint. on the outside walls, the osb really should be covered up. over time it will soak up moisture and start to warp. vinyl siding is the cheapest thing to do so that should give you something to think about, I have never heard of painting osb for ext walls. I will ask my uncle, who is a contractor, about it tomorrow and see what would be the best, cheapest thing to do.

and dont run your floor joists on a 45 degree angle, it is almost impossible to get the floor square that way and also dont put triangles in the corners of the joists, once you lay the plywood down and get it square it wont budge. pm me if you have any questions

and one last thing, for paint use this, http://www.originalcolorchips.com/
you can get it at any paint store and it actually is a good bang for your buck, its really thick and durable.

[ck_taft325is]

you dont have to use 2x6's for 24" spacing on studs. you would if this was a house with a increased amount of weight load it would have to carry. also 2x6's are mainly used on outside walls or extreme load bearing walls supporting a girder truss. on all the sheds I have built, I used 2x4's on the walls and spaced them 24" apart on 8' or lower walls. If it is higher than 8' we space them 16" apart. George has a pretty good idea on what he is doing. also to make it easier on you if you have access to a framing nailer or can borrow one it would really make the job faster and easier for you. if you use one shoot 16 penny nails in the studs and on plywood use 10 penny nails just incase if you didnt know.

Solid advice.

[george graves]

I have never heard of painting osb for ext walls. I will ask my uncle, who is a contractor, about it tomorrow and see what would be the best, cheapest thing to do.

That would be great!

Regarding the OSB, and water - this coop isn't being made to be hosed out. I guess there are different methods of keeping chickens. One type of set up is where you let their poop pile up, and then you hose it out. The other is to use some kind of wood chips on the floor, and you periodically sweep out the dirty wood shavings, and replace.

So, I'm only concerned about the exterior or it. This stuff has a smooth side to it, and a ruff side. I'll get more details later and try to tell you exactly what it is.

[ck_taft325is]

You can paint and use OSB for exterior walls. I've actually seen it used as the "ginger-bread" on a house. Not my bag of tea, but you know ;)

[fannman]

is the osb 1/2, 5/8, or 3/4 that you are using for the outside?

[ck_taft325is]

I wouldn't use anything less than 5/8's, but that's a personal thing. It's for a chicken coop, correct?

[george graves]

7/16 outside walls. 3/4(?) floor and roof. Yes. It's just a chicken coop - no taj mahal this time around.

Pictures will follow when I actually start on the thing. Right now, it's just a pile of wood.

[fannman]

I wouldn't use anything less than 5/8's, but that's a personal thing. It's for a chicken coop, correct?

+1

if it is going to just be painted 5/8's is what I would use, if siding, hardyboard, brick, ect is used you use 1/2" and then house wrap it then do your siding ect.
also I would suggest when you hang the outside walls, since you are still recovering, you will want one or two people helping you hold the board up while you nail it, its pretty difficult by yourself. especially 5/8s

[Farbin Kaiber]

Once you do this chicken thing for a while, you will realize you could use paper mache.

You could repurpose a fridge. Makes chicks to chickens a less costly prospect, unless you are getting full grown laying hens.

[fannman]

7/16 outside walls. 3/4 floor and roof. Yes. It's just a chicken coop - not taj mahal this time around.

you didnt have to go with 3/4 on the roof, 5/8s is all you need, it would have saved you a few bucks on material. and if you are spacing your ceiling joists 24" apart which is perfectly fine, buy h clips. http://www.tecotested.com/techtips/pdf/tt_edgeclips and that link also has really good tips. did you also look into drip edge, felt paper?

[ck_taft325is]

Definately get felt paper if you want it dry on the inside. To be honest, on the OSB (5/8ths) you don't *NEED* to paint it, but go galv. 10 pennies or you'll have these awesome black mascara streaks. Or if you're into that, rock it ;)

H-Clips or if you have cabinate type stuff laying around, Bennet clips work great as well.

[fannman]

[QUOTE=ck_taft325is;1943037]Definately get felt paper if you want it dry on the inside. To be honest, on the OSB (5/8ths) you don't *NEED* to paint it, but go galv. 10 pennies or you'll have these awesome black mascara streaks. Or if you're into that, rock it ;)

very true, I did forget to mention to use galv. nails for the outside walls. you dont have to use them for the roof because it will get covered up with felt paper. if you dont, they will bleed like he said. and dont paint the inside of the roof. I will send you some helpful tips tomorrow when im not so exhausted.

[ck_taft325is]

I was sheeting exterior walls on a house and was 3/4's of the way through when the architech showed up. Had us pull all the OSB and replace it so we could run Galv. 10 pennies.

If you want a bit easier of a time on the hanging of the OSB, double up your studs on every seam. Makes it worlds easier and for the cost of a few extra 2x4's it's worth it (IMO). Also, if you want to get stupid technical, your nail pattern should be every 6" on seams and within 12" in the field. Overlap your tar paper on the roof 6-10".

Remember your framing accuracy will determine how easy your sheeting goes. (Har har har, sheeting...) You can also stand walls up after you OSB 'em, which makes it a bit easier on the hanging side. Get help for this as it can get heavy and a bit hairy.

[ck_taft325is]

I forgot! If you don't mind red and have an extra $50.00 or so in the budget, pick up some "REDGUARD" paint on water proof membrane. I use this on all surfaces that are going to be tiled. Works like a champ and gauruntee's a good water seal/protection.

It looks like a french whore house when you're putting it on and dries ridiculously red. Word of caution, don't paint it on in a garage. Ask me how I know ;)

[fannman]

thats strange the architech made you do that, the building codes around there are probably different than around here. we just shoot 10 penny senco nails (coated sinkers) then we wrap the house then do the siding, or whatever the builder wants. and remember, if you decide to hang the plywood on the walls before you set the walls, make sure you leave 4.25" overhang on the bottom to cover the subfloor and floor joists, I would recommend you set the walls first because you can run into square issues, then hang the plywood and hang the bottom first and hang the plwood flush with the bottom of the floor joist.