I've been looking into tig welding for awhile now....what are the best setups that won't put a hole in my wallet? Not looking to spend 4k or anything like that, just a decent tig that will weld aluminum nicely
Advice for TIG welder
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Miller Diversion if you are buying new.
I have a Miller Synchrowave 300 which is big and more than I really need, but found it on CL for $800 with gas regulator, another $300 for filler and a bottle I was welding.Comment
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best entry level AC/DC TIG machine
Miller Econo TIG, you should buy the foot pedal too thoughThe American Republic will endure until the day Congress discovers that it can bribe the public with the public's money. -Alexis de TocquevilleOriginally posted by FusionIf a car is the epitome of freedom, than an electric car is house arrest with your wife titty fucking your next door neighbor.
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So far you've gotten good advice..
Really only two real makers worth looking at and it depends on you.
Miller or Lincoin. I'm a Miller guy... but it depends on your welding habits and style..
If you go used, do your self a favor and pay the extra money for liquid cooled...
It's the best thing you'll do.. over time or on a long bead you'll be happy you did...
best of luck, welding Is one of my loves and wouldn't give it up if I had to..
have fun with it...Last edited by MonkeyMadness; 11-14-2011, 09:42 PM.https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar...re-irs.356333/
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FoSho. Just bought a 250amp liquid cooled torch (~$200), well a few months ago lol. Got to run a copper line about 10' from the welder to the slop sink I recently installed. Don't weld much over 100amp, but like you, have a passion for fabricating :D The longer your gloves can be near the bead, the better.So far you've gotten good advice..
Really only two real makers worth looking at and it depends on you.
Miller or Lincoin. I'm a Miller guy... but it depends on your weling habits and style..
If you go used, do your self a favor and pay the extra money for liquid cooled...
It's the best thing you'll do.. over time or on a long bead you'll be happy you did...
best of luck, welding Is one of my loves and wouldn't give it up if I had to..
have fun with it...Comment
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I started tig welding on stainless with a scratch start harbor freight inverter welder (little red one) and when it was time to graduate, I decided to try one of those Everlast "multi-process" machines as I needed a plasma cutter as well as ac/dc tig capabilities. There were only a few reviews at the time so it was kinda a shot in the dark.
I got an Everlast PowerPro 205 for 1500 and I am quite satisfied with this welder. It can do so much without putting a dent in your wallet, but it takes a little time to learn how to set the machine up. I actually had to read the manual as to what all the stuff meant on top of the knobs, and watch a few videos. It's got a pretty neat pulse setting, which I find kind of cheating, but is pretty sweet for making pro looking beads on Al. Plus I can plasma cut stuff, but I haven't even used that yet.
I'm still trying to figure out how to weld anodized tubing. Everything else welds fine...but anodized is like trying to weld plastic and stainless together. A big goopy ass mess no one wants to deal with.Comment
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Remove the anodizing in the weld zone. Only way to do it. The reason you need to weld aluminum with AC current is because aluminum oxidizes almost instantly in air. Aluminum oxide melts at around 2000C while Aluminum melts around 700C. You can see how this would present a problem.
The positive cycle of the AC wave removes the aluminum oxide, while the negative cycle melts the aluminum and allows you to weld it. Anodizing is just a process that builds up the aluminum oxide layer to provide a uniform corrosion resistant surface. There is too much Aluminum oxide to be removed by the cleaning action of the AC wave. Thats why it must be removed prior to welding.Comment
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I'm glad I saw some people suggest Everlast. I'm in the same boat as OP and was thinking about going with the 'entry level' Everlast I-tig 200.-AlexComment


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