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My Wife's weekend warrior in Panama, she daily's an LR3 which we just purchased her and I have a defender 110 recently purchased as well.. no pics:(
day we picked her up
I love the older range rovers. I talked my mom into getting a p38 and its been an awesome SUV and the turning radius is surprisingly good. can pull a u-turn a lot easier than my subaru can. the Air suspension was destroyed so we did an arnott Coil spring conversion and its rides smooth as can be. Arnott used proper spring rates and height so the car has a nice level ride and is about the same hieght as air suspension on the middle setting.
So, on my LWB I replaced two calipers, right rear and right front. On the right rear I had to replace the disc, wheel bearing, and ABS ring (old ring had seized in place). I did the rear w/ABS ring first, then went to do the front pads and noticed the front right caliper was seized. I drove the truck outside to sit for a bit (week or two) then got a caliper and did the job. Bled the brakes according to the Rovers North procedure.
Finally got the truck going and before I get 50 yards the ABS and traction control light come on. I diag that with the blink test and get a few codes. Clear them, drive again, and 2-7 (Continuous supply to ECU w/ignition off, faulty valve relay AB14 or wiring)keeps coming back. I replaced both relays, light still comes on, same code.
I've been driving like this for some time. Truck won't pass state inspection with the ABS light on, so I've got a 7/12 sticker. Recently the red brake light has started coming on, but would go off ~40mph. It's staying on longer now, if not indefinitely.
I'm stumped on both counts. I really need to get this thing inspected. I'm leaning towards replacing the ABS module for the 2-7 code. I just don't know what else to look into.
This red brake light, I thought it was for the parking brake. It's across from the ABS light. I'm assuming there is a sensor to let you know if the parking brake is left up?
My red brake light was from the fluid level sensor in the M/C. Turns out I had a hard line about to blow out. CHECK YOUR LINES!!
Why don't you just disable the ABS system? Pull the module block & replumb lines to the proportioning valve. You'll need a T-fitting from a Defender. RovahFarm has them.
My red brake light was from the fluid level sensor in the M/C. Turns out I had a hard line about to blow out. CHECK YOUR LINES!!
Why don't you just disable the ABS system? Pull the module block & replumb lines to the proportioning valve. You'll need a T-fitting from a Defender. RovahFarm has them.
Hmm...
I checked the brake fluid and it is indeed low. Kinda ridiculous a light can mean so many different things.
As far as the ABS light, I'm fine with disabling it, but the light needs to come on and do the "bulb check" upon start up to pass inspection. Absolutely ridiculous, IMO. I know in BMW, Mercs, etc people will wire the bulb to the CEL so it just comes on with the check engine lamp. Can I do this in the Rover, or will it act normally?
I really have to get this done. Especially working with a county trooper.
So I have been in the market for a Land Cruiser for a while now, but finding what I really want won't fit my budget.
So now I'm in the market for a clean Disco 1. I'm finding that I seem to just miss any potential good ones. Super bummed out about it and I really don't want to settle for a Disco 2.
1985 M10b18. 70maybewhpoffury. Over engineered S50b30 murica BBQ swap in progress.
Originally posted by DEV0 E30
You'd chugg this butt. I know you would. Ain't gotta' lie to kick it brostantinople.
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