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91 318is M50 swapped
05 Honda Pilot
24V swap thread
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=302524Comment
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The sad reality of the world of cycling. The "standard" changes every year, it sucks from the standpoint of a professional mechanic. In my career I've seen mountain bike drive-trains go from 8 speed to 9, 10, and now 11 speed. The space those gears go in hasn't gotten any bigger, everything just gets more compact & harder to keep running smoothly. They all require their own shifter set-up, chain rings, cassette, and chain, nothing is easily interchangeable in many cases. Never mind suspension technology and hydraulic brakes, which are pretty much miniature versions of what you'll find on any motocross bike.
All this new technology in modern bikes is good for when you're out riding, but a bit of a pain in the ass when it comes to fixing stuff. /rantOriginally posted by DozyproductionsComment
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I was able to find a somewhat-local Jamis dealer, who is getting me the chainstay for $100. I'm pretty pumped!
I'll probably save up and plan on selling this bike and buying something better at the end of the year, as I think the chainstay is just a bad design that will break again.
Is there a good time to buy a new bike for a good price, are they pretty consistent on seasons and new models years?Comment
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To be fair, it's a Jamis. Likely a high jacked design or a leased one from a more reputable company but several years old. If you want to get serious, look into a bike from someone you see dominating world cups, be it XC/DH/4x.Comment
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Good plan, you're probably right about it being a poor design. Bikes typically go on sale around September/October, shortly after Interbike when the new models are released. I'd suggest buying from a local bike shop for a couple reasons. Firstly, you'll be able to try before you buy; most shops have bikes available for demo so you can actually ride on a trail for an hour or 2 and see how different bikes perform. Second, as you've experienced personally, it's easier to get parts for your bike if there's a dealer local to you. And finally, you'll most likely get a free tune up with the purchase of the bike and (potentially) free adjustments as long as you own it, and buying from your lbs will create a bond between you & whatever shop you choose, so when you have questions, fit issues, or need repairs you'll have that relationship & the shop will have an understanding of your riding style and expectations.
I'm glad you were able to source a rear triangle, and that's pretty damn cheap as far as bike parts are concerned. Good luck, and if you have any questions when you're ready to purchase don't hesitate to shoot me a PM.Originally posted by DozyproductionsComment
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Cool, thanks.
Yeah I'm either going to get another slightly used bike, or if I can, I'll buy a new one from my LBS. Luckily, my LBS is about 5 minutes away, so it's really convenient. But they only really deal with Cannondale, Specialized, GT, Yeti, and Transition.... none of which offer anything in my price range. I really had my eyes set on a Trek Fuel EX 5 as a decent entry level FS bike that I can get for a decent price ($1600). Maybe I just need to adjust my price expectations and/or start looking at hardtails.Comment
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Maybe check out 29er hardtails? My dad was set on a Trek Fuel EX7, iirc, but his LBS talked him into a Specialized 29er hardtail and he loves it!
Originally posted by SpasticDwarf;n6449866Comment
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Yeah I'll probably do some test riding.
Well, I now have two new chainstays. One of the LBS's that I called back before I made this thread just called and said my chainstay is here. Last time I talked to them, they took my number and said they'd call me back with pricing and availability. I didn't hear back so I figured it was a no-go. On top of that, they got it as a warranty part, for free.
So, I called back the place that ordered me one this morning for $100, and it was too late to cancel that order, LOL. Oh well, I'll have two now.Comment
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Alright, new chainstay is installed, everything is working well.
I have a question regarding torque specs though. Here is the specs I have:
The measurements are in KG F, which from what I understand you can multiply by .87 to get in. lbs.
So the front chainstay -> frame pivot at 130 KG F is only 9.4 lbs ft? I can tell you that it required a lot more force then that to remove it, regardless of the amount of lock-tight that was on it. And the chainstay -> seat stay bolts would only be 4.35 ft lbs? I could probably make it tighter by hand...
I just cranked everything down to about what felt right for the size of the hardware. I've been told that is bad, lol. So I want to get this right before I ride.Comment
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From what I've read in your build threads you seem pretty mechanically inclined. That said, going by feel is not a bad thing in most cases, assuming you aren't accidentally putting too much pre-load on a bearing set. I'm sure the hardware involved has a nylock insert so it'll stay in place(?), hence the low torque specs. You're only trying to hold everything together, allow it to move freely vertically, & eliminate any side-to-side there might be. Iirc, those Parker frames are just a bushing at the bolt between the seat & chain-stays so I doubt you'll have any problems, if anything the sleeve of the bushing might eat a groove into the hardware or frame & self clearance. Not ideal, but it's not gonna cause a catastrophic failure either. You could just remove the rear wheel & shock & see if the linkage is binding or loose anywhere by cycling it manually.
Also, +1 on checking out 29" hardtails. The rule of thumb I pass on to customers looking to purchase a new bike is that $1500 is absolutely the bare minimum I would spend on a full suspension bike. Anything below that price is going to be heavy, poorly equipped, and probably poorly engineered. You can get on a nice 29" hardtail for that same money from Trek, Specialized, or any number of smaller companies that will probably perform better than a base model full suspension bike in a lot of cases. Nice full suspension bikes start around $2000-2500, beyond that you can spend as much as you want. I sold a married couple 2 matching Yeti As-r carbon's last year, they left $7400 poorer. It's a slippery slope...Last edited by quikveedb2; 05-04-2013, 10:40 AM.Originally posted by DozyproductionsComment
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There were sealed ball bearings at each joint, and where the chainstay bolts to the frame, thick metal washers as spacers. For the smaller bolts, like the chainstay to seat stay, there was a 2 piece setup, an outer sleeve with female threads inside, which seems to act as the bushing for the pivot, then the bolt that threads into it that holds the joint together.
I'll pull the shock out and see how it feels through the movement.
There is side to side play in the rear shock 'dogbone' where it bolts to the frame. If you look at the specs pic, it's the upper most pivot point, labeled as 60 KG F. It's a noticeable amount, probably 1/8". I loosened the bolts and retightened them, but it made no change. I guess I'd need to take that apart and see what's worn, because I can't imagine it's like that by design...Comment
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I'd follow torque specs as much as you're able to, if there are bearing sets at the pivots on the frame those specs can also dictate the pre-load on those bearings. The play at the top most pivot you mentioned is probably a dead bearing, your lbs should have some on hand or be able to get some. Could be worn hardware too. You should be able to inspect that pivot & figure out where the play is coming from. Are you certain it's from there? The 2 eyelets in the shock have bushings that are a more common wear item.Originally posted by DozyproductionsComment
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Yeah, I can actually see the dogbone slopping back and forth on the frame, almost like it's too wide for the frame, or the frame is too narrow for the dogbone. But I see there is some sort of washer in there on either side of the frame, so maybe it has something to do with that. I'll pull it apart when I get home tonight.
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