Learn me on Type 1 Beetles.

[quikveedb2]

I DD'd a '73 through highschool until it got totaled parked in front of my house, then a '66 for quite a few years after. Easy to work on, even good parts are relatively cheap, and the aftermarket is enormous. Definitely go for a "German look" if you go for the late model. I want to build one myself pretty badly. Type 4/Subie engine swap if you want to cruise on the highway regularly. They sure aren't quick stock, but damn fun to drive, and every baby-boomer in the world has at least one memory associated with them.

[einhander]

So I've sold my e30 and I really want another project car. A guy local to me has a 1973 beetle in an off white color. It's been daily driven on nice days and kept in a garage all year round. I know the aftermarket is pretty damn large for these things, but I'm looking for some tips and what to look for when I go check it out on Monday. Thanks!

Worst car ever.

[wark]

I'd even go as far to say don't buy anything 67 or later, 67 are a one year only transition car. 58-61 is probably the best years to buy (sans Ovals and Splits, but they are generally much more expensive)

[freeride53]

DOOOOOOO it. the cremé color for the type 1's is sooo sexy.
lower it a little bit, mudflaps, polish plates and vintage paraphernalia

[Herr Faust Schinken]

Worst car ever.

they made 21 million of them, so someone bought them

[ST1G]

If you want to have fun, look into the type 4 engine conversion, or a Subaru engine conversion. Both are extremely well documented.

EJ22 swap. Awesome.

[der affe]

Super beeetles had front end and steering wheel issues when you use anything but stock wheels or stock offset.

Least desirable beetles of all of them.

Pm me with any questions. I started in aircooled VWS and worked at one of the larger VW shops in AZ for 6 years.

My head is filled with all kinds of useless VW knowledge.

[Andy.B]

I'd even go as far to say don't buy anything 67 or later, 67 are a one year only transition car. 58-61 is probably the best years to buy (sans Ovals and Splits, but they are generally much more expensive)

I would counter that it really depends on how you are doing to use it. I would rather daily a later bug, while I would prefer to restore a pre 67. Supers especially have a lot of safety improvements, more cargo room, and drive like much modern car. A 55 looks cooler, sure, but it is less powerful, less safe, preforms worse, and costs more.

I guess it largely comes down to budget, and intended use.

I have a small fortune invested into my bus, even though it is a less desirable baywindow, but like I said, 99.9% of the population doesn't know the difference, and from the driver seat, it is just as fun. If I had it to do over again I would have started with a vanagon, just for reliability and creature comforts sake.

If you get a good deal on a solid late model, I say go for it!

[Andy.B]

Worst car ever.

You are wrong. If we are going with cars that were available in the us, I would argue that most any econo box from the late 80's/early 90's was worse. At least the beetle has character. No one restores a Plymouth breeze.

[Herr Faust Schinken]

You are wrong. If we are going with cars that were available in the us, I would argue that most any econo box from the late 80's/early 90's was worse. At least the beetle has character. No one restores a Plymouth breeze.

metro geo ugggghhhhh, drove in one once, I'm pretty sure a snail was faster

[Andy.B]

Super beeetles had front end and steering wheel issues when you use anything but stock wheels or stock offset.

Least desirable beetles of all of them.

Wrong and wrong.

While the 'super beetle shimmy' can be an issue, it can easily be cured by ensuring that the bushings, bearings, tie rods, and ball joints are all in good order, as well as a proper alignment. Supers have a more modern suspension that happens to be less forgiving of worn parts. My super had the early 3 bolt struts and pitman/idler arm steering, and I still never had an issue. Top line parts has a large line of stock replacement and performance upgrade parts to cure the shimmy, and improve handling.

And supers are quite desired by folks who want to build a lightweight, inexpensive, and potent performer, rather than a car show queen. A super can cheaply be built with coil overs, disc brakes, and 100+ whp in a package that weighs in under 1400 lbs and handles like it's on rails.


Late model type 1 standard beetles with d-jet fuel injection... THOSE are the least desirable beetles

[Andy.B]

EJ22 swap. Awesome.

Mazda rotaries are another option, if you want to go crazy with it. Turbo 13b? Yes please.

[einhander]

You are wrong. If we are going with cars that were available in the us, I would argue that most any econo box from the late 80's/early 90's was worse. At least the beetle has character. No one restores a Plymouth breeze.

Okay, fair enough. Worst car ever is the Plymouth Breeze.

The Beetle can be the second worst car ever.

I will say, though, that I love Baja Bugs.

[der affe]

Wrong and wrong.

While the 'super beetle shimmy' can be an issue, it can easily be cured by ensuring that the bushings, bearings, tie rods, and ball joints are all in good order, as well as a proper alignment. Supers have a more modern suspension that happens to be less forgiving of worn parts. My super had the early 3 bolt struts and pitman/idler arm steering, and I still never had an issue. Top line parts has a large line of stock replacement and performance upgrade parts to cure the shimmy, and improve handling.

And supers are quite desired by folks who want to build a lightweight, inexpensive, and potent performer, rather than a car show queen. A super can cheaply be built with coil overs, disc brakes, and 100+ whp in a package that weighs in under 1400 lbs and handles like it's on rails.


Late model type 1 standard beetles with d-jet fuel injection... THOSE are the least desirable beetles

Nope YOU are wrong. I had several super beetles in the shop that EVERYTHING was replaced even down to the steering shaft/joint. What finally cured it?????? Stock chromie wheels in a 4 1/2 " wide after the 5 1/2" wide on all four still made it shimmy at around 40 mph. The rears are inconsequential.

People get supers because they are cheap because the are less desirable.

Sure topline makes a ton of stuff. We used to sell theirs or bugpacs lowering strut housings. A strut tie bar will help out a lot too.
They are popular in Europe as a road race car, but you are going to put tons of money into the to make them handle like they are on rails.

My friend Dean Lowery (rip) of Deano Dynosoars fame, built several land speed cars using super beetles because of their lower drag co efficient. He also build on of the first Pro Sedans using one for the same reason. You may remember it as a purple and orange car when he campaigned it.

All but the early supers had that giant ugly dash too.

If supers are so desired for race cars, why are 95% of the drag cars built on early model cars???
You are dead wrong on your assumptions.

[der affe]

If you want to build a late model (more affordable) bug, look for a 69-71 standard beetle. IRS, EASY to put ghia/914 disc brakes on with out changing bolt patterns.

As far as the FI is concerned, build a motor (preferably a stroker) using 90.5 or 94 p&ls . The formula btw is borexborexstrokex.0031412 = displacement. Keep your compression under 9:1 for heat issues and pinging unless you want to run race gas all the time.
Get some DELLORTOs if you can find them or IDF webers. Don't settle for the regular off the shelf Engle cam grinds. There are tons of other cam manufacturers, I myself prefer Pauter. If you can get Don or Mario on the phone they are very helpful to get you set up with a cam to make your motor combo work the best.

For heads look at the CB Performance 044 heads. They come in many different valve sizes as well as good off the shelf port work. Ask for Marie Ann she knows her shit.