GM PCM Programming

[equate975]

Hey, I was wondering if anyone had an experience programming GM PCMs. Mainly I need to do something that isn't related to the engine, wondering if its possible by programming the PCM or even close.

I need to disable the door dinger, and the key dinger. They play through the radio so there isn't a relay to pull.

Also, the car is only able to have 3 keys that start it. I need to make more that will work. You can have as many as you want to unlock it, but only 3 can unlock and start.

Anyone know what I can do to fix this? This is on an 07 suburban, its a fucking pile of shit. Don't buy GM they are a joke.

[StereoInstaller1]

I need to disable the door dinger, and the key dinger. They play through the radio so there isn't a relay to pull.

OK...wow...what would I do to "fix" this annoying crap. Off the top of my head I have 2 choices:
1. Aftermarket radio, lose the class 2 interface nonsense.
2. A SPDT relay wired to interrupt the speaker when the door is open. You would lose audio while the door was open, but no damn chime.

Also, the car is only able to have 3 keys that start it. I need to make more that will work. You can have as many as you want to unlock it, but only 3 can unlock and start.

Holy crap man, that is a tough one. Since Passlock III is such a dirty whore, I would think an aftermarket transponder bypass box used as the only interface would do the trick, then completely remove the back "rotating magnet" bullshit GM uses as an antitheft device.

I don't understand why you can't have more than 3 keys though. GM odes not use a transponder chip in their keys, so there is no "code" in each key, so multiple keys should not be an issue.

This is on an 07 suburban, its a fucking pile of shit.

Shit, man...try installing alarms in these POS's!

Luke

[equate975]

Awesome thanks for the help man. Those are some good ideas.

I don't wanna put a new radio in, so maybe the second choice might be a neat trick.

The dealer said there was a 3 key max limit. I assume it was RFID or had some other sort of transponder in the key.

[equate975]

Have you done any work on these cars? The interior is a joke I can't even believe they sell it how it is.

The dash and center console might as well be made of popsickle sticks and elmers glue. Its so cheap and flimsy. I was pulling out my ipod charger and it almost broke the "wood" overlay in half. The whole center console was flexing and almost popped completely out when I was unplugging it.

[equate975]

"
DRIVER DOOR AJAR AND PASSENGER DOOR AJAR
The driver door switch (DDS) and passenger door switch (PDS) receive a discrete input from the respective door ajar switch to indicate the status of the door. The DDS or PDS then communicates this status to the instrument panel cluster (IPC) via LAN message. The IPC, upon receipt of this LAN message, will illuminate the appropriate door ajar message in the driver information center (DIC) and also send a LAN message to the radio to activate the door ajar audible warning when the following conditions are met:


The transmission is removed from PARK
The vehicle speed is greater then 8.05 km/h (5 mph)

"

Weak, that makes me think it would be programmable with the PCM though. I don't wanna hack job this thing up. I also see you can get Passlock III disablers. Looks like most people want them so you can put a remote start in. I guess another function should allow for more keys.

[AndrewBird]

WHy not just ground the wire that come off the switch to instrument cluster. Basically, make it so it thinks the door is closed, no matter what.

[equate975]

WHy not just ground the wire that come off the switch to instrument cluster. Basically, make it so it thinks the door is closed, no matter what.

Because that wire if for the GMLan and that would not be a good wire to ground. Aside from the door switch to the BCM, nothing is analog.

If I unplug them from the BCM, then the interior lights won't work.

[StereoInstaller1]

Because that wire if for the GMLan and that would not be a good wire to ground. Aside from the door switch to the BCM, nothing is analog.

If I unplug them from the BCM, then the interior lights won't work.

That is why I suggested using a relay to interrupt the speaker.

Simple stuff, door pin to 85, +12V to 86 so the relay opens, then speaker wire (either one, duh) to 30 and 87a. Should take 3 minutes near the BCM.


The damn key should NOT have RFID or any other such nonsense. Take the key to WalMart, they have a key chip reader...although if it is RFID, this is the first use of it I know of, thus their key reader likely won't be able to read it.

Have not yet done remote start on an '07 'burb, so I am not claming absolute knowledge here.

Luke

[equate975]

That is why I suggested using a relay to interrupt the speaker.

Simple stuff, door pin to 85, +12V to 86 so the relay opens, then speaker wire (either one, duh) to 30 and 87a. Should take 3 minutes near the BCM.


The damn key should NOT have RFID or any other such nonsense. Take the key to WalMart, they have a key chip reader...although if it is RFID, this is the first use of it I know of, thus their key reader likely won't be able to read it.

Have not yet done remote start on an '07 'burb, so I am not claming absolute knowledge here.

Luke

Yeah I think you have the best solution, since the chime (I just noticed) only plays over that one speaker.


As far as the RFID goes, I looked up the Passlock III and it seems to be how the key it cut. I don't really understand how it works, I just glanced over some info. But they key has to be cut a certain way and it makes some electronic signal telling the PCM thats its the real deal key or something. My guess is the dealer just won't let you have more than 3, beats me as to why though. But no there is no transponder of anysort.


Edit:

Also get on AIM or something, I got a few stereo questions for ya ;)

[StereoInstaller1]

Also get on AIM or something, I got a few stereo questions for ya ;)

Sorry, my poor old wrists do not allow for chat. Feel free to call me though, I am actually waiting on a battery to charge (fucking mitsubishi Eclipse junkheap!)

541-747-1171

Luke

[equate975]

Sorry, my poor old wrists do not allow for chat. Feel free to call me though, I am actually waiting on a battery to charge (fucking mitsubishi Eclipse junkheap!)

541-747-1171

Luke

I just PM'd ya

[equate975]

your pm box is now full ;) Heres what I was gonna reply with lol

Guess I can just PM you lol

I have that 07 burb and I need to install a parrot 3200ls-color bluetooth deal into it. Problem is they don't make an adapter for this car yet. The kit comes with the ISO connectors and if your car is not ISO you need to get an adapter for it.

Do you know any place where I can get a harness that plug into the back of the original radio so I can make one? I have the speaker side, but I need the male side that goes into the HU. The trick is just gonna be to get both of the connectors for it so I can retain the GMLan, VSS, etc other special connections.

Also, do you have any good ideas on what I should do if I don't have a line input? I'm looking over the parrot wiring and I have a front L/R "loudspeaker" that needs to go into a line input. The book just says to use the line in jacks. Well thats fucking sweet because most cars I have seen dont fucking have them lol, not for factory HUs.

I do have a line in on the front, 1/8 headphone, but thats being taken up by an ipod.

I do not yet have tech support on '07 'burbs, but I assume it is the standard 40 pin class 2 harness. If it is, I have both male and female in stock.

Can you pull the deck and take a pic?

You should be able to simply use a small amplified speaker with your Parrot, or use the same damn relay you want to use for the chime interrupt, but use 2 SPDT instead.

Check on that parrot and see if you have enough power to run the speaker directly...of course, that would make it easy...bahahahhaha!

Oh yeah, I would bet you already know that there is no ignition wire behind your deck, so ACC power is the brown wire off of your ignition harness.

Luke

Yeah this thing is a bit confusing. The way this is setup is you unplug the stereo, then plug this deal in between the stereo and the wires that should go to it. I have two ISO harnesses for it, one has all the F/R L/R wires for it, and the other has the 12v, ACC, etc on it. In addition I have the two line inputs (which go into the stereo then output to the front to speakers). I don't get why I have a harness for all 4 speakers. All I really need is power, acc, and the mute line. It would appear that the other harness for the speakers does nothing except extend the cable.

Here is a pic I found on ebay on the back of it

http://www.nathanbenreuven.com/GM076CDGeneralN.jpg

I am pretty sure these are the correct pinouts I got off alldata:

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h242/equate975/131294742.gif

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h242/equate975/131294740.gif

Whats the lowlevel outputs mean? Like they have RR Speaker output + and then RR Low Level Audio Signal +

I think if I could just find the C1 male harness that would work, it has all the outputs I really need.

[StereoInstaller1]

your pm box is now full ;) Heres what I was gonna reply with lol




Yeah this thing is a bit confusing. The way this is setup is you unplug the stereo, then plug this deal in between the stereo and the wires that should go to it. I have two ISO harnesses for it, one has all the F/R L/R wires for it, and the other has the 12v, ACC, etc on it. In addition I have the two line inputs (which go into the stereo then output to the front to speakers). I don't get why I have a harness for all 4 speakers. All I really need is power, acc, and the mute line. It would appear that the other harness for the speakers does nothing except extend the cable.

Here is a pic I found on ebay on the back of it

http://www.nathanbenreuven.com/GM076CDGeneralN.jpg

I am pretty sure these are the correct pinouts I got off alldata:

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h242/equate975/131294742.gif

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h242/equate975/131294740.gif

Whats the lowlevel outputs mean? Like they have RR Speaker output + and then RR Low Level Audio Signal +

I think if I could just find the C1 male harness that would work, it has all the outputs I really need.

Oh cool, so you could run this thing into an amp using the low level outputs, or use the little amp built into it...schweet!

I haven't been at the shop today, but I will see if I have your plugs. I should, but who knows, I have hundreds.

Luke

[LINUS]

What if you take one of your keys with the chip & zip tie it into the column?

Then all you do is cut extra keys to move the tumbler pins.

Yes, you loose the EWS type security, but sounds like you need keys more than you car if this shining example of American enginnering got tapped.

I remember a particular car where doing the key thing was the only way to make an aftermarket remote start piece work. It worked for that person.

[equate975]

What if you take one of your keys with the chip & zip tie it into the column?

Then all you do is cut extra keys to move the tumbler pins.

Yes, you loose the EWS type security, but sounds like you need keys more than you car if this shining example of American enginnering got tapped.

I remember a particular car where doing the key thing was the only way to make an aftermarket remote start piece work. It worked for that person.

The car doesn't have a chip in the key. Like I said before I'm not sure exactly how it works, but it uses some way the key is physically cut to make an electric signal.