ABS Delete Any one runs without ABS

[whowhatwhere]

What does your "abs delete unit" look like?

[lifeiskaos]

Fix your brakes.

What is there to fix? I'm happy without ABS and I can stop much faster than I've ever needed to in an emergency situation (in my black e30).

My alpine m52 e30 has a 735 master with non ABS brake lines and it's quite easy to lock up the front tires. I need to get more power to the rear brakes.

[Massive Lee]

I need to get more power to the rear brakes.

Simply ditch the OEM fixed pressure limiting valve and replace by an adjustable one, still in the engine bay. That can increase rear hydraulic pressure by up to 35%. The knee on the OEM valve is located at 25bar (400psi)

But if you indeed run a heavier motor in the front, then I doubt you need that much more rear brakes.Just because the increased weight of the front axle will allow you to press more on the brake pedal before front wheels lock-up. More pressure at the front equals more pressure at the rear.

[gman325is]

ABS, is the way to go. I am an Instructor for all the local car clubs in our area and have lots of track experience. I have an e30 with S52 motor and have found that with this car it is way to easy to lock up the front tires, with late braking into the turns. My ABS has not been working since I did the engine swap(not wired properly) and I plan to fix that as soon as possible.

[Massive Lee]

...I have an e30 with S52 motor and have found that with this car it is way to easy to lock up the front tires...

With the added weight on the front of the car, it is strange you still lock the front wheels and not the rear too. Please let us know what type of pads you use at each end. And what suspension you run. Maybe you need to increase rear bias, or rear pad grip.

Honestly, I very rarely hit the ABS and I brake very hard and usually on the last marker. So maybe the problem is with drivers not modulating their brakes enough.

[lifeiskaos]

Simply ditch the OEM fixed pressure limiting valve and replace by an adjustable one, still in the engine bay. That can increase rear hydraulic pressure by up to 35%. The knee on the OEM valve is located at 25bar (400psi)

But if you indeed run a heavier motor in the front, then I doubt you need that much more rear brakes.Just because the increased weight of the front axle will allow you to press more on the brake pedal before front wheels lock-up. More pressure at the front equals more pressure at the rear.

Yeah I plan on getting an adjustable bias valve. I do indeed run an m52, but I've definitely lost weight up front. I've got zero AC/heater components, including the huge hvac box behind the dash. Also, no power steering or insulation on either side of the firewall. I'm about to install my carbon fiber hood as well, so I think I've more than made up for the ~50lb of added engine weight.

The front brakes definitely lock up much too easy. I can't stop nearly as fast as my other stock e30, and I've yet to be able to lock up the rear tires.

[MatRacer]

Bringing this thread back to life!

Presently "building" a 325i 1989 with a S50. The goal is to get a fun car that car be daily driven, but also tracked. It had functionnal ABS before swap. Big brakes is on the list, but wont come this year.

My plan for this year was deleting ABS + addition of Stainless Steel Braided Brake Hoses (to replace old dryed out rubber hose) since my last tracked car was a jetta MK2 without ABS. I wasn't having any problem with the absence of ABS.

However, after reading all this thread and the E30thech link, I'm leaning toward: keeping ABS + addition of Stainless Steel Braided Brake Hoses + brake bias valve (as this one http://www.iemotorsport.com/bmw/E30-brakes/wwvalve.html).

I will be able to try ABS and decide if I want to keep it or not...

What you guy think?

One question for Massive Lee: From your last post(#65) "Honestly, I very rarely hit the ABS", I can read that you still have ABS on your car. Is this on your E30? If yes, I guest that it is not as dangerous as stated in post 40... Not trying to pick on you, just trying to make my car as good an safe as possible for its purpose... within my budget...

[Massive Lee]

Hi Matt. My e30 M3 running 17" wheels, R compounds and front/rear uprated brakes has perhaps triggered ABS once or twice in maybe 40 track days. And I understood very well why it happened when it did. My mistake.

If you are a novice tracker, I suggest you keep it. If you are a very experienced tracker and have good brakes, then you don't really need it. Let's not forget that while ABS can be faster on the track, we're talking Motorsport ABS here, not first generation e30 ABS.

Currently redoing my M3 as a full race car and ABS is removed. The boosted system is replaced by a three MC set-up. Now running Massive/AP Racing brakes.

[RangerGress]

Bringing this thread back to life!

Presently "building" a 325i 1989 with a S50. The goal is to get a fun car that car be daily driven, but also tracked. It had functionnal ABS before swap. Big brakes is on the list, but wont come this year.

My plan for this year was deleting ABS + addition of Stainless Steel Braided Brake Hoses (to replace old dryed out rubber hose) since my last tracked car was a jetta MK2 without ABS. I wasn't having any problem with the absence of ABS.

However, after reading all this thread and the E30thech link, I'm leaning toward: keeping ABS + addition of Stainless Steel Braided Brake Hoses + brake bias valve (as this one http://www.iemotorsport.com/bmw/E30-brakes/wwvalve.html).

I will be able to try ABS and decide if I want to keep it or not...

What you guy think?

One question for Massive Lee: From your last post(#65) "Honestly, I very rarely hit the ABS", I can read that you still have ABS on your car. Is this on your E30? If yes, I guest that it is not as dangerous as stated in post 40... Not trying to pick on you, just trying to make my car as good an safe as possible for its purpose... within my budget...

Keep the ABS. It will make it harder to flat spot tires.

Don't spend a bunch of money on a big brake kit until you're working your brakes so hard that track pads and cooling ducts on the OEM brakes can't keep them cool enough. It is entirely possible that scenario may never occur.

[MatRacer]

Thanks!

Did some more reading. Seems like the ABS module is designed to work with the stock brake byas, including the rear brake pressure regulator, which make sense. So from there, I will keep the rear brake pressure regulator.

If I come to the points of adding a BBK, I guest I will delete ABS and add a brake byas valve.

[aventari]

I have an E30 track car and experienced ABS "lock up" or "ice mode" or whatever you want to call it when the system freaks out over bumps into a corner and you lose all braking power. This happened twice in one day with 2 different drivers and we almost crashed/went off track.

So I pulled the ABS fuse. However now the bias is way too much front brake and I've lost braking power and it's easy to lock them up now.

I put some more aggressive pads on the rear to get some more braking out of them, but I'd like to add an adjustable bias valve and remove/gut the stock bias valve. What's a good valve to use? Is there a write-up on how to do this? I'm not too familiar with modifying braking systems.

We almost went

[MatRacer]

What is the production year of your car? Maybe bumps can "lift" the entire car, front and rear...


Is There really a system upgrade at a certain production date?

[Massive Lee]

ABS is not related at all with braking balance. The braking balance is a problem that most likely was always there, but was masked by the ABS.

There's a fixed pressure limiting valve right under the fusebox by the fender. remove it and fit a 10mmx1 union. Then plumb and adjustable one from Wilwood or Tilton. They are cheap at around $50 each. Tilton's is available with metric 10mmx1

Many people who have so-called "upgraded" the MC to a larger one will have a balance problem as they swapped a 22/17 MC to an equal bore 23,8/23,8 ot 25,4/25,4 - bigger rear piston (compared to the front) means less pressure)...

[Jalves619]

I'd be curious how much of a task it would be to implement the e46 ABS in an e30. I know bimmerworld makes a standalone harness for it. Pretty decent amount of $$$, but as long as BMW stuck with the same tooth count, you could probably get away with reusing your factory wheel speed sensors.

http://store.bimmerworld.com/epic-motorsports-mk60-standalone-abs-system-p1691.aspx

[jlevie]

I have an E30 track car and experienced ABS "lock up" or "ice mode" or whatever you want to call it when the system freaks out over bumps into a corner and you lose all braking power. This happened twice in one day with 2 different drivers and we almost crashed/went off track.

So I pulled the ABS fuse. However now the bias is way too much front brake and I've lost braking power and it's easy to lock them up now.

I put some more aggressive pads on the rear to get some more braking out of them, but I'd like to add an adjustable bias valve and remove/gut the stock bias valve. What's a good valve to use? Is there a write-up on how to do this? I'm not too familiar with modifying braking systems.

As best I can determine, "ice mode" occurs when more than one wheel (usually the rears) is locking up. It does not reduce braking pressure on an E30, though it will result in a hard pedal. The cause is simply going too deep into the braking zone for the track/tires. The fix is obvious, brake earlier.

As you found, disabling the ABS means locking up and flat spotting tires...