quality studs? vorshlag = :(

[nando]

just call tms...or BW...or Vorshlag even

nando......

you're a smart car guy....

every club racer in the world uses studs...and get the brakes hot as well.....this isnt brain surgery.....

I know, I'm just busy. My wheel isn't going to fall off with two lugbolts and two studs holding it on, not in a hurry. I'll probably just call vorshlag when I get the chance. Just seeing what other people's experiences were.

[Massive Lee]

The new Vorschlag bullet nose with hex holes are made by ARP (same supplier as Turner) and should not bring any problem. I bought a set last month. The older style that was shorter and zinc plated (and cheaper) was a bit akward to work with. I had them too and am replacing them. Never had problems though wit the old style studs.

Lee

[JRKOUPE]

i could.. The h&r headquarters is right here in town!

just call tms...or BW...or Vorshlag even

nando......

you're a smart car guy....

every club racer in the world uses studs...and get the brakes hot as well.....this isnt brain surgery.....

[nando]

I could.. the H&R headquarters is right here in town!

[SA E30]

Why not try H&R Studs? Although they aren't bull nosed. They do have a nifty allen socket in the front for tightening.

[jms16v]

I've been using the TMS bulletnose studs this season without any problems.

[Van Westervelt]

I have been using TMS studs for years, zero issues.

[JRKOUPE]

studs

I use TMS...no issues at all........on a track car.

[nando]

This. Heat stretches bolts, and when you re-torque them hot, and they cool, the stress on the bolt rises a huge ammount, as if you torqued them like the crank hub bolt. Turner Studs fail under the same circumstances, saw a good friend lose the RF wheel to the trees in a left hander. Tyhe studs sheared because they were way too tight, and the load of the c orner did them in. Luckily, he was safe and only needed to replace the studs and fender.

If I may be so blunt, I hope you aren't tightening the nut with the impact set to a "torque"

oh yeah, no I'm not retorquing them hot (although with two of the nuts backed off 1/2", I had to do something). and my impact isn't capable of more than ~60ft/lbs. it's enough to get them snugly on there, and then I have to torque them with my torque wrench.

[Asbradley21]

Holy shit. And I JUST installed those exact studs a few weeks ago.

[nando]

or they are too small. mission is murder on brakes. :p

not sure what I'm doing yet. Will probably call vorshlag when I have a chance. These weren't quite a year old btw. I also don't use an impact to break them free.

[jlevie]

Wheel studs are easy. Go to Bimmerworld and get their bullet nose studs. Those are the same part they use on their race cars and they work. Do give the studs a dab of anti-seize every other weekend and replace the studs every other year.

Red locktite is more than adequate. If that isn't holding, there is insufficient cooling to the front brakes or less than optimal use of the brakes.

[nando]

remove and install wheels twice a weekend and see how the threads in your hubs like you. ;)

[Knockenwelle]

I was given a set of studs and nuts from a buddy who used to have an E30. I don't know the make, but they had rolled threads, and looked OK. I installed them on one front hub with red loctite, let it sit overnight, and put the wheel on using the supplied matching nuts. They did nothing but stretch (.200"!!) and wouldn't even achieve 80 ft-lbs with a known-good torque wrench. I ripped those bitches out of there and I'm using stock-replacement lug bolts to this day. I've never had a problem with them, and never had one loosen up. Sure, they're kinda difficult to get lined up at first, but so what? I guess it's a different story with a big spacer...

[whiltebeitel]

I also had problems with vorshlag studs. They would constantly back out (even with red loctite) and were a general pita. The problem is that screw in studs are not ideal.

This is why Vorshlag's first studs had an interference fit thread on the hub side, so they studs would feel like they wer cross-threading, but were just exteremly tight to the female threads of the hub, to keep them from rotating out. People didn't like it, so they discontinued that.