Control arm/bushing suggestions?

[SlapDash]

My stock control arms are failing and need to be replaced to pass inspection. However, I am building my '88 325is into a rally car. Anyone have any suggestions on what brands to replace the stock versions with? Also, I don't think this would be a factor, but rally cars must remain street legal.

In rally situations they're gonna take a beating. I heard E30 ball joints weren't as stout as they could be, so I'm looking for an upgrade. I am not a bazillionaire either, so if you have a line on some solid replacements, by all means, let me know. They don't have to be show quality, just strong and, as usual, as cheap as possible.

Another factor is I may be upgrading to an E36 steering rack so it doesn't take me 20 minutes to turn left or right. Does this affect the control arms/placement?

Thanks

[JGood]

Lemforder is your only option. PM 'blunt' on here, $97 each shipped to your door.

For bushings, you may want to go with poly or at least M3 offset bushings. There's tons of info on the options here, do a search.

For the rack, no, it will not effect placement of anything. your steering rack is mounted to the chassis, and the tie rods connect to the strut housing. The placement of the steering rack can effect bump steer, and depending on your rally requirements you may wish to look into this.

[jlevie]

I'd use delrin bushings. They will increase the NVH, but they are ideal for tack or rally activities. As JGood stated, Lemforder control arms are as good as it gets.

[SlapDash]

Thanks guys. I'll track down Blunt and see what I can do.

I'm assuming NVH is Noise, Vibration and Harshness? If so, I'll take it. That means I am getting closer to living the dream.

Thanks again.

[JGood]

Also look at AKG's 75D poly CAB's. I'm not sure if you've worked with 75D poly before, but it is basically plastic. Very very hard plastic. I'm not sure how anything could possibly be stiffer. You can hit those things with a hammer and it won't dent, chip, or depress.

[SlapDash]

Will do. I haven't looked at anything before. Thanks for the info.

This is my first journey into building any sort of racing machine. I have enjoyed the journey so far. I have been doing what I can on my own and relying on R3V experts and others for the rest.

[jlevie]

Also look at AKG's 75D poly CAB's. I'm not sure if you've worked with 75D poly before, but it is basically plastic. Very very hard plastic. I'm not sure how anything could possibly be stiffer. You can hit those things with a hammer and it won't dent, chip, or depress.

Delrin specs out to about 83D, so it is a fair bit stiffer than 75D urethane.

[JGood]

Delrin specs out to about 83D, so it is a fair bit stiffer than 75D urethane.

I'm glad you have that number, I have been looking all over for a comparison. What does that number mean, exactly? Would it be possible to put a number like that on aluminum mounts, for comparisons sake?


EDIT: Nevermind, just found this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shore_durometer

Interesting...

[2002maniac]

I'm glad you have that number, I have been looking all over for a comparison. What does that number mean, exactly? Would it be possible to put a number like that on aluminum mounts, for comparisons sake?

shore durometer :)

*edit* damnit too slow!

[FredK]

A 1995 E36 M3 control arm shares the same geometry as an E30 control arm, but allegedly has beefier ball joints.

[MatRacer]

For track use (Autocross, lapping and solosprint), should I replace the stock contral arms?

[2002maniac]

For track use (Autocross, lapping and solosprint), should I replace the stock contral arms?

If you don't know when they were last replaced, yes.

[MatRacer]

^^ They are pretty much brand new. I will look at what brand I have.