Just in case someone else wants to do this there are a few details that aren't visible in the picture.
There is a piece of 3/8" Type L copper tubing soldered into the elbow inside the tank. That tube is bent to roughly follow the siphon tube and curve around the pickup cup in the bottom of the tank. The elbow is threaded into a 2x2x1/8" piece of mild steel that is pop riveted to tank and sealed with JB weld. To adapt the 3/8" copper tube to the roughly 1/2" outlet of the transfer pump I soldered half of a 1/2 barbed coupler to the 3/8" tubing.
Because the later tanks don't have a cross over tube, you need level sensors in both sides. It is a simple matter to graft the connector in place of the connector used for the level sensor on the left side. But the body of the level sensor must be electrically isolated from pump housing for both sensors to work. I accomplished that by using a die grinder to open up opening in the pump housing, insulated the studs with short pieces of heat shrink, and used gasket material above and below the level sensor flange. A hard rubber ring about 3/32" thick around the gage tube and plastic washers work work as well, if not better. If you use a ring, a bit of sealant where it contacts the pump flange would be a good idea.
There is a piece of 3/8" Type L copper tubing soldered into the elbow inside the tank. That tube is bent to roughly follow the siphon tube and curve around the pickup cup in the bottom of the tank. The elbow is threaded into a 2x2x1/8" piece of mild steel that is pop riveted to tank and sealed with JB weld. To adapt the 3/8" copper tube to the roughly 1/2" outlet of the transfer pump I soldered half of a 1/2 barbed coupler to the 3/8" tubing.
Because the later tanks don't have a cross over tube, you need level sensors in both sides. It is a simple matter to graft the connector in place of the connector used for the level sensor on the left side. But the body of the level sensor must be electrically isolated from pump housing for both sensors to work. I accomplished that by using a die grinder to open up opening in the pump housing, insulated the studs with short pieces of heat shrink, and used gasket material above and below the level sensor flange. A hard rubber ring about 3/32" thick around the gage tube and plastic washers work work as well, if not better. If you use a ring, a bit of sealant where it contacts the pump flange would be a good idea.
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