Bimmerworld SE30 Swaybar install - adjustable links?

[speedblind]

Posting this in here to get track guys experience (and to avoid discussion of why my car isn't slammed/stanced/stretched/etc.).

I bought the Bimmerworld SE30 swaybar kit to go with the SE30 HR/Bilstein suspension. Nothing new/outrageous/groundbreaking about my setup, but the bars did come with adjustable end links. I've never used these before, and I'm not a good enough driver to tell the difference between a thread or two of adjustment. ;)

I'm looking for a baseline setup here, so my initial thought is to adjust them to the length of the stock endlinks, install and go from there. Does this make sense? Is there a better way to do it?

Thanks.

Also, here's part of the reason for swapping to the SE30 setup from the soft-ish Eibach springs that came on the car - couple shots from VIR:

[jlevie]

To adjust those, have the car resting on the wheels, but up high enough that you can get under the car to adjust the links. Then adjust the links to have the ends of the sways as close to horizontal as you can with no pre-load on the sway bar. Two to three 4x8x16" concrete pavers under each wheel works well.

It is essential to weld in the reinforcements on the sway pickup points on the rear trailing arms. I'm not a fan of the plain flat triangular plates that are furnished with the sway bar kit. I prefer the the reinforcments like those sold by Turner that triangulate the load to the trailing arm.

[Hellabad]

Here are the Ground Control directions:


Ground Control sway bar end links.

Intended to fit only the make and model of the car stated on the invoice


The following is for a right handed person, swap sides if you are left handed:

Always use two wrenches to tighten the end link studs to the existing holes in the strut and sway bar. Do not use power tools to spin the bearing stud until it tightens. This will void any warranty, and is easily recognized. The stainless stepped washer remains up against the stud, and the small gold washer is placed on the other side of the bracket or sway bar.

After installing both Ground Control sway bar links, and using the two wrenches to tighten the bolts that hold it to the sway bar and strut:


Start by actually setting the passenger side link length permanently. You will not adjust the length of this side. Make sure the rod ends are parallel when tightening the jam nuts. This operation should probably be done with car in the air. This link should be as long as possible, with about 0.250 minimum clearance from the sway bar to the top of the control arm.

Again, use two wrenches to tighten the jam nut, do not twist the rod end until it stops and then tighten the jam nut. This will force the ball loose, and the rod end will not last as long.

Now for the drivers side, set the length the same as the passenger side, but do not tighten the jam nuts. For consistency sake, have the left end rod end on the same end (top or bottom) as the passenger side.

Now, set the car on the ground, and roll or drive the car about 20 feet.

This next step is actually setting the length of the drivers side link. The best way to do this is for the car to have been cornerweighted, but at a minimum, the ride heights must have been set. Adjusting the length of the sway bar links to remove sway bar preload is the very last step in setting up the car.

With the wheels pointed straight ahead, and the driver or drivers equivalent weight in the car, lie down on your right side and reach up behind the drivers front tire and grab onto the drivers side link. Twist the link one way or another, it doesn't matter yet. As you feel the link start to get harder to turn (adding preload to the sway bar), maybe after after 3 turns or so, stop turning. Now start turning the other direction until the preload feels the same. Keep track of how many turns with your fingers, it is actually pretty easy.

Lets say you have turned 6 turns between preload clockwise and the same preload counterclockwise. You may have to go back and forth a few times to make sure what you are feeling is consistent, but it doesn't take long. You would then split the difference of 6 turns. In other words, turn the link back to where you felt you were preloading the bar, and turn back 3 turns.
This will be very very very close to zero preload.

Jay Morris

[kevnj]

Speedblind,

How did you like the kit? I have been looking at these for my track day car.

Thanks,

-Kev