Lollipop

[Adrian_Visser]

Does anyone else with the THR's notice that their steering wheel doesn't return all the way to centre when you let the wheel go?

I need to get a proper alignment still too but noticed that my wheel doesn't return all the way anymore.

[E30-M3]

Alignment should fix that. I had a similar issue with my M3 when I did all my suspension stuff. The alignment seemed to fix it.

[F34R]

Does anyone else with the THR's notice that their steering wheel doesn't return all the way to centre when you let the wheel go?

I need to get a proper alignment still too but noticed that my wheel doesn't return all the way anymore.

Get it aligned, same thing happened when I did my brothers WHOLE front end. It is super easy to do it yourself too.

[JRKOUPE]

does the THR or AKG cabs give you more caster?...I just bought and installed offset bushing and got 9.5% of caster :):):)

yes!...thats one of the features for buying the prod.

offset...means more caster.

[Teaguer]

Over solid polly bushings? If so link me, I am not in need of comfort.

Such a noob.
Quit being such a fuh raze wannabee poser.

[JGood]

That AKG part is not a street part. Unless you like tearing your suspension apart and checking for wear after every drive.

Those are race parts, made to work on a race track. That's why it says "Recommended for race use only".

[F34R]

Such a noob.
Quit being such a fuh raze wannabee poser.

Your funny!

That AKG part is not a street part. Unless you like tearing your suspension apart and checking for wear after every drive.

Those are race parts, made to work on a race track. That's why it says "Recommended for race use only".

I have a daily and this will mainly be used for SCCA events and nice days. I am selling the daily e30 and buying a Evo 9 to take it's place.

So am I cleared to build my own car or not?

[JGood]

So am I cleared to build my own car or not?

You can do whatever you want to your car. Most people who have a desire to have an even somewhat reliable/fast track car like to know what parts work best and why. I'd be asking what kind of heim joint is in the AKG part, if it's metal on metal, or kevlar lined, or what. But you probably know all that stuff and the pros/cons, so carry on. Just don't come back here bashing AKG when the part fails after 100 street miles, or you wipe out your front end when it comes lose because you didn't check it for wear after each track event, etc...

That part has a specific use. Your use does not line up with that. It's like using a track brake pad on the street. It will not work properly, and a proper street pad would do the job much better. But, as I said, build your car however you want.

[F34R]

You can do whatever you want to your car. Most people who have a desire to have an even somewhat reliable/fast track car like to know what parts work best and why. I'd be asking what kind of heim joint is in the AKG part, if it's metal on metal, or kevlar lined, or what. But you probably know all that stuff and the pros/cons, so carry on. Just don't come back here bashing AKG when the part fails after 100 street miles, or you wipe out your front end when it comes lose because you didn't check it for wear after each track event, etc...

That part has a specific use. Your use does not line up with that. It's like using a track brake pad on the street. It will not work properly, and a proper street pad would do the job much better. But, as I said, build your car however you want.

It has a steel sleeve, and I am using some white grease to slide it on. I figured with the metal sleeve it will be just like OEM, sense BMW uses a metal sleeve but rubber outsides. I am also using IE trailing arm bushings. The reason I asked about the AKG to treehouse ones was because of the price. But after asking a few friends and what they use I went with the THR ones.

I am picking the brains of UUC, AKG and Treehouse racing. Rob, Jon and the tech at AKG all do tracking and know what their products take. I am doing my homework and making the right moves on well made parts. I am in no mood to use junk, I am not that kinda guy. Buy once and do it right.

I am using a cabby rear sway with polly bushings to keep the rear wheels on the ground under hard turns and thinking about a H&R front sway. What size bar would you think work well? I was thinking the 27mm.

I could see 1000 miles on a non-sleeved sub-bushing. But sense it is sleeved and has a metal base I see it getting better than 100 miles. I have a full garage with lift, I don't mind dropping anything out of my car. And thank you for being honest, it is hard to find people on here that are willing to talk about parts that matter.

Three years ago I was into low and loud subs. Now I have a gutted radioless e30 with well thought out plans and ideas. I learned to weld from my father and I am now learning proper cage builds points to get it right.

And I know what you mean by buying parts, I am not looking for fancy parts all over, I am buying what works to get fast times. I am building a fast track car, not a show car. It does have wicked nice stuff and only the best. But I will not just buy it to turn heads, I want times not drool.

I am getting the UUC BBK for brakes, for road use I will swap out to a solid rotor and for the track I want to use a slotted and drilled rotor.

[JGood]

It has a steel sleeve, and I am using some white grease to slide it on. I figured with the metal sleeve it will be just like OEM, sense BMW uses a metal sleeve but rubber outsides..

I'm not talking about the inner race-to-control arm material. I'm talking about the spherical rod end design, it's a metal part that rotates inside another metal part. That = extremely low lifespan, depending on the material used to seperate them. It makes for a very stiff and accurate part, good for a few RACES... not a few HPDE's or street driving. Just IMO.

I am using a cabby rear sway with polly bushings to keep the rear wheels on the ground under hard turns and thinking about a H&R front sway. What size bar would you think work well? I was thinking the 27mm.

I've never heard of anyone using a swaybar that big on a proper e30 race suspension setup, or a rear bar all at for that matter. They are usually used to tune f/r balance in race cars, not control body roll. You should go stiffer on springs, not thicker on swaybars. There's many many threads discussing this though. I am no expert. I do know that a larger rear swaybar is not going to "keep the rear wheels on the ground". They generally help promote inside wheel lift in cornering, which is not an ideal thing.

I am getting the UUC BBK for brakes, for road use I will swap out to a solid rotor and for the track I want to use a slotted and drilled rotor.

I'd avoid drilled rotors.



I'm no expert in race car setup, just throwing out some things I've heard/read from people who's opinion I value.

[F34R]

I am looking into the front for a proper size and using the vert one on the rear sway. I have a super stiff coilover setup from ground control.

About the control arm, I am using the treehouse eyeballs and on the rear subframe I am using this stuff:

IE rear trailing arm bushings

Last one red 75D

http://www.akgmotorsport.com/catalog/catalog.php?page=5&category=e30%20Suspension/Bushings

Red 75D diff bushing.

http://www.akgmotorsport.com/catalog/catalog.php?page=1&category=e30%20Suspension/Bushings

[SA E30]

Sometimes I think people act stupid just because they think it gets them attention. In this case I feel you are just oblivious to what comes out of your mouth.

Read read and then read... Surprising as it may be all the information you want and need is out there.