LeMons pad recommendation? '87 eta

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  • KenC
    King of Kegstands
    • Oct 2003
    • 14396

    #1

    LeMons pad recommendation? '87 eta

    We're building a LeMons racer right now, and we're trying to pick out a brake pad. We're driving a stock eta (on coilovers and street tires), and none of us have a lot of track experience. Our needs are a pad that doesn't fade, but also one that we can use for the whole session.
    Any pad recommendations? Hawk HT-10s? Porterfield R4?
    Originally posted by Gruelius
    and i do not know what bugg brakes are.
  • priapism
    E30 Enthusiast
    • Mar 2010
    • 1182

    #2
    Either of those are fine. Just don't cheap out...we made the mistake of using some Akebono pads and they were toast way early, had to come in and do a brake pad change while the track was hot. I hear the HT10s are the good stuff but we've been running Porterfields with some success, I'd say you can't go wrong either way.
    sigpic
    -Sean : 91 Calypso 325i : Castro Motorsports SoCal Spec E30 #33

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    • Massive Lee
      R3V OG
      • Sep 2006
      • 6782

      #3
      Also check the Performance Friction PF06 endurance pad
      Brake harder. Go faster. No shit.

      massivebrakes.com

      http://www.facebook.com/pages/Massiv...78417442267056





      Comment

      • kishg
        R3VLimited
        • Sep 2006
        • 2624

        #4
        my vote's for PFC 06!
        '12 F30 328i Sport Line
        '91 SpecE30 #523
        '00 Ford F-350 Dually Tow Vehicle

        BMWCCA #360858 NASA #
        128290

        Comment

        • KenC
          King of Kegstands
          • Oct 2003
          • 14396

          #5
          Thanks for the recommendations!
          Originally posted by Gruelius
          and i do not know what bugg brakes are.

          Comment

          • jlevie
            R3V OG
            • Nov 2006
            • 13530

            #6
            Another vote for PFC 06 pads. They have nearly the same performance as the 01 variant, which are equivalent to Hawk HT-10's, but last far longer.
            The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
            Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

            Comment

            • Massive Lee
              R3V OG
              • Sep 2006
              • 6782

              #7
              I'd say that PF01 have more bite than HT10, but indeed they last longer and have friendlier/non-corrosive dust.

              If the OP had been running Wilwood calipers, I would have suggested Wilwood H compound. A long lasting high friction endurance pad.
              Brake harder. Go faster. No shit.

              massivebrakes.com

              http://www.facebook.com/pages/Massiv...78417442267056





              Comment

              • KenC
                King of Kegstands
                • Oct 2003
                • 14396

                #8
                It looks like the PF06 is going to be the best for our application. We're running OE Ate calipers (rebuilt obviously) with OEM blank rotors. I'm doubting our car will even see speeds in excess of 80mph often. Fade resistance and longevity are what we're looking for.
                Originally posted by Gruelius
                and i do not know what bugg brakes are.

                Comment

                • Massive Lee
                  R3V OG
                  • Sep 2006
                  • 6782

                  #9
                  Get the PF06 at the front AND the back. If your car is a track-only car, I suggest removing the rear backing plates and handbrake assembly to keep radiant heat from bouncing back onto the rotor. At the front, the usual cooling ducts are recommended because the stock rotors are small and not too good at evacuating heat as they have straight vanes.

                  Wilwood and Tilton make a fluid recirculate kit, allowing to keep the fluid much, much cooler. This is a superb idea in theory. After each application of the brakes, the hot fluid is recirculated back into the reservoir.

                  A cheap improvement on stock front and rear calipers would be the replacement of stock chrome steel pistons by stainless steel cups. Stainless reduces the progression of heat, therefore better insulating the fluid from the pad's intense heat. A good machinist can probably craft pistons and have them polished.
                  Brake harder. Go faster. No shit.

                  massivebrakes.com

                  http://www.facebook.com/pages/Massiv...78417442267056





                  Comment

                  • NigelStu
                    E30 Modder
                    • Oct 2010
                    • 827

                    #10
                    Cobalt Friction XR3 front and probably XR5 rear (maybe XR4). I'll be running one of those set-ups on my Chump car.


                    I run that combo on my Spec Miata and love it. I ran a ton of races this year, changed front pads once and rear pads are still good for next year. Also ran Cobalt's (XR1/XR3) on a E92 M3 for One Lap of America this last year; the 1 set of pads lasted the entire week of 4000+ street miles plus 2 track sessions per day plus an open track day a few weeks later with material to spare at the end.

                    Cobalt Friction has been well known in endurance series like Grand Am Cup, and is becoming better known in club racing now. They have excellent wear characteristics with good bite and modulation.


                    Shamless plug - I am a dealer for CF brakes if anyone is interested in that route.
                    Ben
                    Thelma-Louise, the '88is Chump Car - back to M20 power!

                    2014 ChumpCar Season Schedule!
                    April 5-6 Autobahn, IL - Sat: 1st! Sun: 3rd
                    May23-25 Watkins Glen, NY: 4th, 5th, 4th
                    October 4 PittRace Sprints: 2nd in C-class
                    October 18-19 NCM, Bowling Green KY: 2nd, 1st!
                    Nov 1-2 Watkins Glen - Chumpionship - 1st car to exit the race with significant body damage :(

                    Find us on FB! Schaut Speed Motorsports

                    Comment

                    • lateracer
                      Grease Monkey
                      • Sep 2009
                      • 302

                      #11
                      Originally posted by KenC
                      We're building a LeMons racer right now, and we're trying to pick out a brake pad. We're driving a stock eta (on coilovers and street tires), and none of us have a lot of track experience. Our needs are a pad that doesn't fade, but also one that we can use for the whole session.
                      Any pad recommendations? Hawk HT-10s? Porterfield R4?
                      Destroyed brake systems are all over the place at Lemons.

                      The speeds are slow enough and the corners are crowded enough to where you can live with one set of decent pads (we run HP+) in an E30, but DON'T FORGET FLUID. We boiled our DOT 3/4 synthetic and cheaped out on pads in the first race and I had to rebuild the entire system (calipers, seals, boots, rotors, bushings, etc) as a result of the ensuing melty chaos.

                      You guys running Buttonwillow in a few weeks?
                      sigpic

                      Comment

                      • KenC
                        King of Kegstands
                        • Oct 2003
                        • 14396

                        #12
                        Originally posted by Massive Lee
                        Get the PF06 at the front AND the back. If your car is a track-only car, I suggest removing the rear backing plates and handbrake assembly to keep radiant heat from bouncing back onto the rotor. At the front, the usual cooling ducts are recommended because the stock rotors are small and not too good at evacuating heat as they have straight vanes.

                        Wilwood and Tilton make a fluid recirculate kit, allowing to keep the fluid much, much cooler. This is a superb idea in theory. After each application of the brakes, the hot fluid is recirculated back into the reservoir.

                        A cheap improvement on stock front and rear calipers would be the replacement of stock chrome steel pistons by stainless steel cups. Stainless reduces the progression of heat, therefore better insulating the fluid from the pad's intense heat. A good machinist can probably craft pistons and have them polished.
                        Thanks for the tips.

                        We'll be fabricating some ducting for the front and rear. As it's a LeMons car, we'll be doing it on the cheap... think dryer ducting and household HVAC heater registers for "scoops"
                        Originally posted by Gruelius
                        and i do not know what bugg brakes are.

                        Comment

                        • MaksV
                          E30 Enthusiast
                          • Oct 2010
                          • 1042

                          #13
                          hawk pads are usually pretty good. just make sure you get ATE blue/gold fluid.
                          CHEAP REBUILT INJECTORS




                          Need Quality Brakes? BimmerBrakes has it!
                          For anything Else go with BluntTech!

                          Comment

                          • KenC
                            King of Kegstands
                            • Oct 2003
                            • 14396

                            #14
                            Originally posted by lateracer
                            Destroyed brake systems are all over the place at Lemons.

                            The speeds are slow enough and the corners are crowded enough to where you can live with one set of decent pads (we run HP+) in an E30, but DON'T FORGET FLUID. We boiled our DOT 3/4 synthetic and cheaped out on pads in the first race and I had to rebuild the entire system (calipers, seals, boots, rotors, bushings, etc) as a result of the ensuing melty chaos.

                            You guys running Buttonwillow in a few weeks?
                            Yeah, we're definitely taking the brakes seriously. I don't want to "fade" into the side of anyone.
                            I'm betting we'll go with the PF06s front and rear. And we'll definitely be bringing many liters of full DOT4 fluid. I definitely don't want to be rebuilding hot calipers.

                            We're just starting to build our car now. It's a weekends project thing right now. We're planning on running at Infineon/Sears Point in March.
                            Originally posted by Gruelius
                            and i do not know what bugg brakes are.

                            Comment

                            • lateracer
                              Grease Monkey
                              • Sep 2009
                              • 302

                              #15
                              Originally posted by KenC
                              We're planning on running at Infineon/Sears Point in March.
                              Yeah, that's an awesome race. Hope you guys get in. We ran it last March.


                              Seeing an E30 do battle with a weinermobile on a world class track is not something that happens often.

                              sigpic

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