You guys make it seem like any RWD platform can drift like FD. I'm researching to find the forumula for the best E30 drift car. Can you drift a stock car? yes. Can you drift a stock car well? Kinda. Can you drift a mildly modded E30 at an FD level? no.
As I've progressed, I've learned a few things that would have made me a better driver sooner. IE stumbling around modding my car made my car harder to drift and not better.
IE my general short list for E30 drifters is this:
side wall flex contributes to large amounts of body roll. 15" minimum for rims
sway bars are your last method of controlling body roll. Springs are prior to that.
When you get really stiff, no rear sway bar is preferred
Now if I had known these few things from the beginning, I wouldn't have fucked with stock bottle caps for so long.
Also, HR Race springs are soft as hell. Most competitive E30s run spring rates near 1000#. Jstock is ~900 front and 1100 rear. HR race is 300/500.
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Originally posted by BimmerScreamer View Posti think the biggest limiter is usually the driver not just the setup, try letting someone better then you drive your car and you'll see. The best mod is the driver.
(not aimed at anyone just my .02)
As for me, I have added and changed parts as I go along. I first upgraded the brakes to some 3DG slotted rotors and Red Stuff pads. I also upgraded the sway bars to thicker Eibachs.
Drift drift drift... then I changed the springs to H&R and shocks to Bilstein Heavy Dutys.
Drift drift drift, I changed the steering wheel to something smaller. Added an M30 intake and chipped the engine.
Drift drift drift, upgraded the injectors to 19lbs. and added a cherry bomb muffler and custom catback exhaust. Swapped to some harder springs.
Now I'm in the drift drift drift stage again, just getting back on H&R springs (they kick ass). Now, if I had jumped into the car I have now as a novice, I wouldn't have an understanding of the limits of the car and how they change and react. I know the car super well, even to the point where I have no problem noticing what I'd change in other E30s to make it like mine.
I hate to be a dick, but that's about as definitive an answer I can possibly give.
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i think the biggest limiter is usually the driver not just the setup, try letting someone better then you drive your car and you'll see. The best mod is the driver.
(not aimed at anyone just my .02)
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Theoretically yes. But the closer the lines get to the level of the caliper, the more likely it is to lose pressure. The relief valve is preferred. I know a similar setup to mine that required the valve as well. It's cheap insurance.
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Originally posted by shiboujin View PostAll lines have been fabbed, just need to tighten them down and run some fluid through the system. Hopefully I don't suck too bad at making brake lines.
I'm not sure the stock clutch master is good enough. Make sure to get a 2psi pressure valve to keep some pressure in the lines. Otherwise, it'll take a few pumps to lock up the rear.
Originally posted by http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderValves.aspxResidual Pressure Valve 2lb, Blue, w/ Fittings.
Wilwood two pound residual pressure valves retain a minimum brake line pressure to help eliminate excessive pedal travel in both disc and drum brake systems. The two pound valve is used in disc brake applications where the master cylinder is mounted below the horizontal plane of the calipers and fluid drain back occurs from gravity and vibration. Residual Pressure Valves are made from billet aluminum and color coded for easy identification. Valves with fittings are supplied with two 1/8-27 NPT to 3/-24 inverted flare female fittings that will most domestic 3/16th hard brake line.
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Originally posted by evil_twin View PostLol. Have you hooked it up the rest of the way? Everything works?
Originally posted by bataangpinoy View Posti cant wait to get my setup hooked up with massive's adapters. and i have had the idea in my head to look for an e30 clutch master and use that as the e brake master cyl and mount a small reservoir near it. should be simple and cheap if i do it right.
i'll work on it over winter break, and come up with a list or parts and cost.
but if not, i'll go with the ASD motorsports setup.
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i cant wait to get my setup hooked up with massive's adapters. and i have had the idea in my head to look for an e30 clutch master and use that as the e brake master cyl and mount a small reservoir near it. should be simple and cheap if i do it right.
i'll work on it over winter break, and come up with a list or parts and cost.
but if not, i'll go with the ASD motorsports setup.
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Lol. Have you hooked it up the rest of the way? Everything works?
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nah. for Lee's thing, you have to run his type of wilwoods. For my thing, you run stock calipers cuz I'm cheap and they are free!
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Wait. I thought someone found a cheaper alternative to the wilwoods?
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Originally posted by Erick View PostSo it looks like this'll be at least $350+ before it's all said and done (in parts)
but you can do it for less...
junkyard clutch master cylinder and pedal will cut costs there
i'm seing what I can do for the calipers but it looks like we are stuck paying 100 per side unless I can find a retailer willing to do a group buy, same with pads
then add some adapters and some hardline and some softline
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So it looks like this'll be at least $350+ before it's all said and done (in parts)
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Originally posted by Erick View Posti'm looking at the last two pages, seems like there's still a lot to be discussed.
Massive is providing the brackets alone? I'm confused as to cost, etc etc. Can you PM me more details as the first two pages and the last two pages aren't completely clear... and I'm not in the 28-page reading mood :p
I might not be able to jump on this due to my recent project on the e30, but we'll see how this goes.
This thread is awesome.
I was trying to find a cheaper alternative to the wilwood calipers
thought i found a solution
solution looks like it wont work so i guess we will stick with the wilwood calipers.
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