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    Dash mounted window switches

    So In a few race cars, I've seen where they take the window switches, get a new simple up/down switch, and put it where the radio used to be. Does anyone know of a DIY for this? Anyone have any personal experience with this and can help me out?

    #2
    You can somehow fit the stock switches into the hazard/defrost switch area blanks.

    If you wanted to wire a switch DTDP switch you can. It's very simple once you know the trick. This is all you need to know:

    Originally posted by Matt-B
    hey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?

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      #3
      That whole facad is gone. Care to decode the diagram alittle more?

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        #4











        Talking about something like this

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          #5
          Originally posted by nickpro View Post
          TCare to decode the diagram alittle more?
          Do you see the little black lines in the image I posted? Those are wires. I would use 18-16 gauge wire, something nice and thick. See the gray box with the letters a, b, c, d, etc? That's a switch. You need to buy a switch that is labeled DPDT. See the (M)? That's the motor. The Vs is power (voltage source) and the 0V is "zero volts" or ground. Then connect the wires just like the diagram shows.

          It's a bad idea to use a switch like that, cause eventually you'll bump the switch, and will be driving with the motors constantly running. You'll raise your arm out the window, sleve will get caught on the switch, trapping your arm or some crazy shit. Not to mention a 10 amp load running full time.

          You really want switches that don't stay in the on position, but you'll never find them locally. So I would use the stock switches, but I know you don't want to.
          Originally posted by Matt-B
          hey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?

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            #6
            Another option would be to use 2 momentary switches for each window: one for up and another for down. More is better, right? ;)
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              #7
              Originally posted by Ian F View Post
              Another option would be to use 2 momentary switches for each window: one for up and another for down. More is better, right? ;)
              You mean a momentary switch with two contacts? Like this?

              Originally posted by Matt-B
              hey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?

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                #8
                Originally posted by Ian F View Post
                Another option would be to use 2 momentary switches for each window: one for up and another for down. More is better, right? ;)
                Momentary switches are hard to use for this application as they don't have a NC contact.

                You could use momentary switches, but if he is having a tough time with what George posted, adding relays will make it much more complex.

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                  #9
                  God damn it Luke, you're ruining all my fun here. I was going to ask Ian how in gods name he planned to pull that off with two momentary switches and then watch him squirm.

                  I have very few things I enjoy in life, and poking a sharp stick at the noobs is one of them.

                  ;)
                  Originally posted by Matt-B
                  hey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?

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                    #10
                    use George's diagram and his advice, the single on/off switches are bad for window motors. Get the kind that always come back to "off" when your not pushing them.

                    Did it in my volvo. Three of the yellow ones are the monemtary switches or whatever their called, and control my front windows (rear are lexan), one my wiper fluid pump, and the last yellow is an on/off and thats for the gauge lights. The black is for my horn (on/off for teh lolzors) and the others are fuel pump, head/tail light kill and meth inj.




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                      #11
                      Cole Hersee 55054 DPDT momentary toggle. We use them to replace the crappy factory power mirror toggles in Freightliners at work. They seem to last forever.

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                        #12
                        Get these. They're momentary, so they won't stay in the up or down direction, center-off (which is what you want), and rated for 5A which is good enough for the window motors unless you keep the switch pressed after the window is all the way in one direction.
                        cars beep boop

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                          #13
                          Awesome, thanks for the info guys. I'm pretty new at wiring, as you can tell. Not my forte.

                          So if I use the switches Kronus posted, I wont need a relay or anything will I? I just snip the wires before the OEM switch, and solder them on to the new switch.

                          Anyone know which wires that go to the switch are for up down?

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                            #14
                            if it's a race car, just take the windows out.
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                              #15
                              I'd like to keep the windows in for now. The drive to tracks can get pretty cold.

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