So In a few race cars, I've seen where they take the window switches, get a new simple up/down switch, and put it where the radio used to be. Does anyone know of a DIY for this? Anyone have any personal experience with this and can help me out?
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Dash mounted window switches
Collapse
X
-
You can somehow fit the stock switches into the hazard/defrost switch area blanks.
If you wanted to wire a switch DTDP switch you can. It's very simple once you know the trick. This is all you need to know:
Originally posted by Matt-Bhey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?
-
Originally posted by nickpro View PostTCare to decode the diagram alittle more?
It's a bad idea to use a switch like that, cause eventually you'll bump the switch, and will be driving with the motors constantly running. You'll raise your arm out the window, sleve will get caught on the switch, trapping your arm or some crazy shit. Not to mention a 10 amp load running full time.
You really want switches that don't stay in the on position, but you'll never find them locally. So I would use the stock switches, but I know you don't want to.Originally posted by Matt-Bhey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?
Comment
-
Another option would be to use 2 momentary switches for each window: one for up and another for down. More is better, right? ;)'88 325is: Diamond Schwartz; 210K miles; Koni SA; H&R springs; poly bushings (sold)
'03 TDi Wagon; 5 spd (Ho-hum DD; 326K miles and counting...)
'64 Morris Mini Cooper (w/e vintage toy #1)
'72 Triumph GT6 (w/e vintage toy #2)
'73 Volvo 1800ES (future vintage restomod project)
Comment
-
Originally posted by Ian F View PostAnother option would be to use 2 momentary switches for each window: one for up and another for down. More is better, right? ;)
Originally posted by Matt-Bhey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?
Comment
-
Originally posted by Ian F View PostAnother option would be to use 2 momentary switches for each window: one for up and another for down. More is better, right? ;)
You could use momentary switches, but if he is having a tough time with what George posted, adding relays will make it much more complex.
Comment
-
God damn it Luke, you're ruining all my fun here. I was going to ask Ian how in gods name he planned to pull that off with two momentary switches and then watch him squirm.
I have very few things I enjoy in life, and poking a sharp stick at the noobs is one of them.
;)Originally posted by Matt-Bhey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?
Comment
-
use George's diagram and his advice, the single on/off switches are bad for window motors. Get the kind that always come back to "off" when your not pushing them.
Did it in my volvo. Three of the yellow ones are the monemtary switches or whatever their called, and control my front windows (rear are lexan), one my wiper fluid pump, and the last yellow is an on/off and thats for the gauge lights. The black is for my horn (on/off for teh lolzors) and the others are fuel pump, head/tail light kill and meth inj.
Scientists have proven that the average human being gives 60% too much of a fvck about most daily
activities, so stop giving a fvck, and drastically reduce your capabilities of giving a fvck
Comment
-
Awesome, thanks for the info guys. I'm pretty new at wiring, as you can tell. Not my forte.
So if I use the switches Kronus posted, I wont need a relay or anything will I? I just snip the wires before the OEM switch, and solder them on to the new switch.
Anyone know which wires that go to the switch are for up down?
Comment
Comment