Dash mounted window switches

[george graves]

You won't need relays. You will nned a multimeter and you'll want to learn to use it. Sounds like it would be a good thing to spend an hour doing.

[Ian F]

God damn it Luke, you're ruining all my fun here. I was going to ask Ian how in gods name he planned to pull that off with two momentary switches and then watch him squirm.

I have very few things I enjoy in life, and poking a sharp stick at the noobs is one of them.

;)

Poke away. Why would you use relays here?

[Falcone]

a three way momentary for up/down.


Why not do rolldowns? I have my "summer doors" with manual conversion. I just cut the gear off the motor, and welded it to some rod, welded another piece of rod 90deg, and shoved a buzz light year arm to it. I'll try and find a pic. Or do lexan with cut out sliders. It seems silly to have electric windows in a gutted dedicated track car. My volvo is gutted, but its also my dd

[george graves]

Already poked.

Another option would be to use 2 momentary switches for each window: one for up and another for down. More is better, right?

You mean a momentary switch with two contacts? Like this?

[Falcone]

i'm definitly aroused

[James Crivellone]

Why not just relocate the existing window harness and use the stock switches?

If you shave the edges down they will fit perfectly above the radio. You could then make a panel to fit other switches where the radio would go.

Just a thought anyway, I did it on my 318i

[kishg]

I'd like to keep the windows in for now. The drive to tracks can get pretty cold.

keep the stock switches then. simplicity is a good thing in a race/track car.

[george graves]

Mount the stock switches into the door? You'll get rid of all that wiring, along the tunnel, and they'll be out of the way.

[Nairb]

I like being able to access all of the switches in the center console of the car. However, what James did is pretty nice. I was considering doing that, but decided I didn't want to find a center console without holes.

I would've swapped the defrost switch next to the hazard and mounted the passenger window switch on the outer hole, though. Still looks clean though!

[StereoInstaller1]

The wiring is easy shit.

Use a DPDT switch, like George said. That means "Double Pole Double Throw" and you will see why, or forever be "electrically retarded"

This is how you do it:

All NC contacts get ground

All NO contacts get +12V

Each "common" gets 1 wire from the motor.

This is how it works:

Both motor wires "rest" on ground, as in have ground when your fat little finger is off the switch. When you stab your greasy finger on the "up" button, for example, the "up" wire goes to +12V WHILE THE OTHER ONE RESTS ON GROUND...get it? When you poke the "down" button, the down wire gets 12V...and the other one rests on ground.

If this isn't clear to you, get over it. Wiring is just clear as mud to some guys, while it is first nature to the blessed few, like me, George, James, Dave Smed and a very very few others. The rest of you guys just need to do what we tell you!

GL
Luke

[browntown]

Poke away. Why would you use relays here?

Way OT, but I'm a huge cerebus fan. Never thought I'd see the aardvark on this forum.

Back to your regularly scheduled programming.

[JGood]

When I removed my center console, I just took took a flat piece of ABS, cut holes, mounted the 2 switches, and attached it to the bottom of the dash below the HVAC controls via some screws. Simple, cheap, and it works.

[spic]

I was going to fit my up in the dash by the stereo but found the wires were not quite long enough and couldnt be bothered to extend them so i just made up a small plate out of ABS plastic and mounted them near there original location.

[nickpro]

Where did you get those floorboards?

[spic]

Where did you get those floorboards?

Its aluminium chequered plate sheet cut to size and fixed in... I also added a little grip tape to help grip when they are wet ;)