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Securing stock battery for track use

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    Securing stock battery for track use

    Apparently I'm either the only person with a bad battery compartment, or this isn't an issue.

    I haven't had a functional "stock" battery securing point since I bought the car 4 years ago. When I realized this was causing the clunk in my trunk, I strapped it down with 2 thick rubber ties, sometimes called "Tarp tiedowns".

    Now I'm prepping the car for my very first track day, and I'm trying to eliminate things that will keep me from passing tech.

    The traps I'm using right now don't let the battery budge a cm, but they also look suspect, and are tied down in suspect places, like the notch used to secure the plastic cover.

    In searching the forums I only found this guy trying to secure an Optima battery because the stock point wouldn't work. For me, I don't have a stock point and am wondering how finicky techs will be about "alternative" solutions.

    Thanks guys!
    Last edited by Earendil; 04-11-2011, 01:57 PM.
    -------------------------------------------------
    1989 - E30 - M20B25 - Manual. Approx 300,000+ miles - Track Rat & Weekend Fun
    2000 - E46 - M52TUB28 - Manual. Approx 130,000 miles - [not so] Daily Driver

    sigpic

    I'm looking for a Lachssilber Passenger Fender and Hood. PM if you have one or both to sell!

    #2
    I can try and post pictures this afternoon when I'm back around my car in the daylight.
    -------------------------------------------------
    1989 - E30 - M20B25 - Manual. Approx 300,000+ miles - Track Rat & Weekend Fun
    2000 - E46 - M52TUB28 - Manual. Approx 130,000 miles - [not so] Daily Driver

    sigpic

    I'm looking for a Lachssilber Passenger Fender and Hood. PM if you have one or both to sell!

    Comment


      #3
      whatever you do is going to have to be bolted physically. no bungie chords or zip ties. although I did help a dude from here pass tech at an autox with creative use of zip ties.
      Build thread

      Bimmerlabs

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        #4
        Any auto parts store sells battery tie-down kits, they're usually $10-$15 and come with everything you need. They're more than adequate for a track day but probably wouldn't hold your shit down if you ended up going end-over-end a few times.

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          #5
          FYI you can change thread titles by double clicking on the thread box in the forum.

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            #6
            ignore the fact that the rear corner is smashed against the battery...$5 in materials from Home Depot or Lowes

            sigpic
            '86.5 325eis Track Ho | '08 128i DD | '04 Silverado Tow Vehicle

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              #7
              Ha, that's one way to keep the battery locked in...
              www.slapdashracing.com

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                #8
                Originally posted by SkinnyVT View Post
                ignore the fact that the rear corner is smashed against the battery...$5 in materials from Home Depot or Lowes
                The corner of that car looks not unlike mine! :)

                This looks like something I could rig up pretty easily. Hopefully I have something solid enough in the battery well to attach those threaded rods to!
                -------------------------------------------------
                1989 - E30 - M20B25 - Manual. Approx 300,000+ miles - Track Rat & Weekend Fun
                2000 - E46 - M52TUB28 - Manual. Approx 130,000 miles - [not so] Daily Driver

                sigpic

                I'm looking for a Lachssilber Passenger Fender and Hood. PM if you have one or both to sell!

                Comment


                  #9
                  Shouldnt be going anywhere, pretty much ever. Overkill. :)

                  This is in my old black car, but I have the same setup in my white sedan. bolted to the chassis on all four corners.

                  sigpic

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by nando View Post
                    whatever you do is going to have to be bolted physically. no bungie chords or zip ties. although I did help a dude from here pass tech at an autox with creative use of zip ties.
                    zip ties can do it if you have the HVAC type -- the ones that are like 3/4 feet long and are about 1/2" thick. I used that to pass autox tech with an old car of mine. You can still shake the car as long as they are attached to something secure.

                    on my 318, even though the battery is up front, I used threaded rods cut to correct length, bent metal bracket and locking washers.


                    you should be able to move the entire car from the battery. if you can't or it breaks, you need to try something else. some tech inspectors will nearly pick the car off the ground by the battery to test it out. ;)
                    '84 318i M10B18 147- Safari Beige
                    NA: 93whp/90ftlbs, MS2E w/ LC, 2-Step
                    Turbo: 221whp/214ftlbs, MS3x flex @ 17psi

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