Brake fluid types

[F34R]

Anyways, just called EVERY car place in town and NO ONE carries it. So I am now a Pegasus buyer from now on. They are close and can ship to my door in two days. So I got two amber and one blue coming.

So in conclusion for anyone in the future that wants to flush and fill go with ATE typ 200(x2 bottles) and one ATE super blue to flush for racing.

I talked with a sales rep/their race car mechanic(BIG PLUS) he told me their setup and that is what I am following. They race Porsches and I think I remember lining their car up on grid at Watkins Glen for one of the Porsche clash events. So that was cool too =)

Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies, Inc.
2475 S 179th St
New Berlin WI 53146 USA

Order Toll Free: 1-800-688-6946 (US & Canada)
Local/International Order Line: 262-317-1234
Technical Questions: 262-317-1200

[F34R]

all I'm saying is if you leave any kind of brake fluid on paint for a few hours, most likely it's going to strip it off.

I have left some on a junk fender before, it softens the paint and in time starts to boil up. If any gets on paint stop everything and wash with soap and water.

That is why I use a funnel and keep a nice new rag in my back pocket.

[Emre]

I've never understood why BMW guys are so obsessed with Ate Super Blue (besides the fact that it's cheap). The performance isn't significantly better than Valvoline SynPower, which you can buy from Autozone for less cost/hassle.

Factoring in cost in addition to performance, I would choose any of these over Ate:

• Amsoil Series 600 DOT-4
• AP Racing 551
• Brembo Sport EVO 500++
• DuPont GS610
• Motul RBF600
• Wilwood 570

In terms of bang for your buck, it's impossible to beat Wilwood 570 at just $5-7 per bottle.

[bimmerteck]

I've never understood why BMW guys are so obsessed with Ate Super Blue (besides the fact that it's cheap). The performance isn't significantly better than Valvoline SynPower, which you can buy from Autozone for less cost/hassle.

Factoring in cost in addition to performance, I would choose any of these over Ate:

• Amsoil Series 600 DOT-4 13.60 per 12 oz.
• AP Racing 551 12.79 for 17 oz.
• Brembo Sport EVO 500++10.85 for 16.9 oz.
• DuPont GS61012.94 for 16.9 oz
• Motul RBF600 14.99 for 16.9 oz
• Wilwood 5707.00 for 12 oz.

In terms of bang for your buck, it's impossible to beat Wilwood 570 at just $5-7 per bottle.

ATE type 200 was 11.95 last I bought it for 33.8 oz (But ranges from 12-15)

How exactly is $15-21(wilwood) cheaper than $12-15(ATE)

ALL the options you have posted are more expensive than the ATE and most are double what it costs. The ATE works very well for it's cost.

[xxlbimmer]

ATE super blue is no longer available! I went to buy some on Friday. I was told by my supplier that ATE wrote DOT4 on the bottle. DOT expressly prohibits colored brake fluid! He was strictly forbidden by DOT, who came into his store and inventoried his supply!, and was told to produce a receipt for return to his distributor for said amount, or he will be fined!! How is that for the shit!?!?
ATE type 200 is the same stuff, just amber in color! Have had great luck using blue, in dozens of racecars built to date.
If you are going bonzo on the brake system you absolutely cannot beat Castrol SRF! Just have to spend 75 BUCKS apint!!!!

[xxlbimmer]

EDIT!! Sorry it is only illegal in the state of Florida!! Just checked the facts!
Its on Turners site, TireRack etc.!!!

[Emre]

How exactly is $15-21(wilwood) cheaper than $12-15(ATE)

Did you bother to read my post? Where did I say it was cheaper? In fact, I made a point of saying the major advantage to Ate is that it's cheap.

My point is that there are better performing fluids out there that are not substantially more expensive. As for Wilwood 570, I said it's great bang for the buck. One liter (three 12oz bottles) of 570 comes in at around $20 and not only outperforms Super Blue (in my experience, of course) but also doesn't turn your brake fluid reservoir blue. The extra $5 per liter is more than worth it.

Besides, you rarely need a full liter of brake fluid. I prefer to have smaller bottles on hand so I don't have to contaminate it all if I just need to top up the reservoir.

ALL the options you have posted are more expensive than the ATE and most are double what it costs. The ATE works very well for it's cost.

Considering how much money it costs to spend a weekend at the track, paying five or ten bucks more for brake fluid doesn't seem extravagant to me. Especially when brakes are one of the weak-points on our cars.

[bimmerteck]

Did you bother to read my post? Where did I say it was cheaper? In fact, I made a point of saying the major advantage to Ate is that it's cheap.

Yes.

In terms of bang for your buck, it's impossible to beat Wilwood 570 at just $5-7 per bottle.

My point is that there are better performing fluids out there that are not substantially more expensive. As for Wilwood 570, I said it's great bang for the buck. One liter (three 12oz bottles) of 570 comes in at around $20 and not only outperforms Super Blue (in my experience, of course) but also doesn't turn your brake fluid reservoir blue. The extra $5 per liter is more than worth it.

ATE super blue/type 200 has a wet boiling point of 396 degrees vs the Wilwood 570's 313 degrees. In the humid south at least that is where the ATE fluid beats up on the rest, beating the newer DOT 5.1 specs for both it's boiling points while the Wilwood 570 eeks by at only 2 degrees over the minimum wet boiling requirement for a DOT 4 fluid. This means that with very little water in the system the Wilwood's performance will be surpassed by the ATE. As for the blue reservoir my first post was to let the OP know that the ATE Type 200 fluid mirrors the specs of "Super Blue" without the blue dye.

Besides, you rarely need a full liter of brake fluid. I prefer to have smaller bottles on hand so I don't have to contaminate it all if I just need to top up the reservoir.

Considering how much money it costs to spend a weekend at the track, paying five or ten bucks more for brake fluid doesn't seem extravagant to me. Especially when brakes are one of the weak-points on our cars.

It's certainly not extravagant, and EVERY brake fluid you recommend above would be a fine choice for the OP. I was merely trying to explain why many people are, as you put it, "obsessed" with ATE super blue/type 200's performance, especially in street/track vehicles that may serve dual purpose and don't want to necessitate the frequent servicing required on a track specific vehicle.

[bimmerteck]

If I were looking closely at your list for Brake fluids worth spending more money on; I'd concentrate on the ones with both a higher Dry Boiling point and a Higher Wet Boiling point than the ATE.

Amsoil Series 600 DOT-4 Wet BP-410
AP Racing 551 Wet BP-284
Brembo Sport EVO 500++ Wet BP-336
DuPont GS61012.94 Wet BP-417
Motul RBF600 Wet BP-420
Wilwood 570 Wet BP of 313

If I were to go to one of the lower wet boiling point fluids I would step up the fluid changes to twice yearly or more if raced heavily due to the severe drop off in some of them with water in the system. While this does increase the cost x2 of the fluid some people's time spent bleeding is worth far more than the difference there.

[jlevie]

One liter of fluid is more than enough to fill and empty system (with or without ABS) or to flush a system. When doing a brake system flush it will suffice to bleed a measured 250cc through each rear caliper and 150cc through each front caliper. That leaves 200cc from a liter container for the reservoir on an empty system. For the curious, I proved this by injecting a small amount of dye into the master cylinder and measured how much fluid had to be bled to see the dye at a front and rear caliper. Then I increased the desired quantity partly as a safety measure and partly to use up a liter (once opened there's no point in saving what is left).

I quit using ATE Blue a long time ago as it stains things. And if you alternate colors you'll wind up using a lot more fluid than is necessary to get the color change when going from Blue to Type 200.

A pressure bleeder is the best way to flush/bleed the brakes and it is a good idea on an empty system, to pump the brake pedal a few times for each caliper to eliminate any bubbles from the master cylinder.

[samiam3356]

^^^Ever since you gave me that info Jim i have never had an issue bleeding or flushing my brakes.

[F34R]

ATE super blue is no longer available! I went to buy some on Friday. I was told by my supplier that ATE wrote DOT4 on the bottle. DOT expressly prohibits colored brake fluid! He was strictly forbidden by DOT, who came into his store and inventoried his supply!, and was told to produce a receipt for return to his distributor for said amount, or he will be fined!! How is that for the shit!?!?
ATE type 200 is the same stuff, just amber in color! Have had great luck using blue, in dozens of racecars built to date.
If you are going bonzo on the brake system you absolutely cannot beat Castrol SRF! Just have to spend 75 BUCKS apint!!!!

You're FUCKING ANNOYING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I know!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! LET'S END EVERYTHING IN explanation marks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Because I don't know proper punctuation!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[JJ1]

I use Motul 600rbf. I live in socal (90+ temps at the track). Ive heard by several track people that ATE blue degrades quickly even after one track day. I will look for a link that shows a stone test.

JJ

[JJ1]

^Couldnt find a link, but alot of stories of it boiling. But with a BBK I cant imagine it being a problem.

[QUKBMER]

I use either Ate super blue or Motul 600,great stuff. I have never had any brake fade