Brake fluid types

[F34R]

I have been building my track car for the last two years and I am almost done, I am getting the BBK setup today and was wondering what brand fluid would be best for a weekend tracker and DD all in one.

Types I have found:

Motul RBF 600 DOT4

ATE Super blue/gold DOT4(leaning more at this one, for DD and race apps)

Also how many ltrs to fill the complete system? I tore out the ABS too. I was guessing three bottles to be safe.

[bimmerteck]

I use ATE type 200, think super blue without the dye that stains if spilled/dripped.

1 Liter is usually plenty for a full bleed including the clutch system with my bleeder. If your filling a new system possibly 2.

[Bimmerman325i]

Ate is DOT4 IIRC.

Valvoline's brake fluid is good too.

1L is enough to bleed the entire system unless it is bone dry.

[F34R]

I use ATE type 200, think super blue without the dye that stains if spilled/dripped.

1 Liter is usually plenty for a full bleed including the clutch system with my bleeder. If your filling a new system possibly 2.

Just looked that up, seems very good for what I am using my car for. And yes the system is in terms dry. I removed the ABS and all braking stuff but the lines. So i want to fill it up with all new for the expensive BBK setup I just spent on.

Here is info on the type 200 for anyone wondering:

ATE TYP 200 Amber Brake Fluid is designed to excel within the extreme demands made on a race vehicle or by high performance drivers and exceeds all DOT4 standards. It is compatible with and will mix well with most DOT3, DOT4 or DOT 5.1 fluids.

The formula offers a minimal drop in boiling point due to outstanding water binding properties resulting in a long-lasting fluid that may not need to be changed for up to 3 years under normal highway driving conditions. Products with a lower wet boiling point have to be replaced considerably more often (e.g., DOT3 products should be replaced annually). The overall high dry and wet boiling points make this fluid an excellent choice for street driven vehicles, too, where brake fluid is flushed less frequently than that in race-driven vehicles.


Features/Benefits of ATE TYP 200 Amber Brake Fluid:

Boiling point minimum: 536 degrees F
Wet boiling point minimum: 388 degrees F
Viscosity at -104 degrees F: max 1,400 mm 2/5
Designed to last up to 3 years under normal highway driving conditions
To maintain the functional reliability of brake systems, brake fluid must be changed according to the specifications of the vehicle manufacturer (quality and change interval). In race/track applications, it becomes even more critical that the brake fluid is routinely changed to maintain optimum performance.

For race applications, vehicle owners will often alternate fluid flushes between ATE Super Blue Racing Brake Fluid and ATE TYP 200 Amber Brake Fluid. The identical specifications of the fluid and color difference make it easy to know when the old fluid is completely flushed out of the system.

[Jean]

I've used both kinds listed, 2 bottles were enough to flush and fill my car (also no abs).

I would rotate between the two to make flush/bleeding easier, as they are different in color.

For me Motul was easier to find and was cheaper than ATE Blue.

I've also used ATE Blue on one of my previous cars at THill and had no brake fade in 2.5 hours of hpde driving, just smoked all the oem caliper paint off in the first 25 minutes.

[F34R]

I've used both kinds listed, 2 bottles were enough to flush and fill my car (also no abs).

I would rotate between the two to make flush/bleeding easier, as they are different in color.

For me Motul was easier to find and was cheaper than ATE Blue.

I've also used ATE Blue on one of my previous cars at THill and had no brake fade in 2.5 hours of hpde driving, just smoked all the oem caliper paint off in the first 25 minutes.

Thanks Jean, I think I am going to buy two bottles of the ATE typ 200 and two of the Super blue since they are made by the same company. I do SCCA events so I am not really into the big HUGE demanding racing yet. I do grid for Watkins Glen so one day!

[F34R]

Info on the super blue:


ATE Super Blue Racing High Performance Brake Fluid is designed to excel within the extreme demands made on a race vehicle and exceeds all DOT4 standards. It is compatible with and will mix well with most DOT3, DOT4, or DOT 5.1 fluids.

The formula offers a minimal drop in boiling point resulting in a long-lasting fluid that may not need to be changed for up to 3 years under normal highway driving conditions. Products with a lower wet boiling point have to be replaced considerably more often (e.g., DOT3 products should be replaced annually). The overall high dry and wet boiling points make this fluid an excellent choice for street driven vehicles, too, where brake fluid is flushed less frequently than that in race-driven vehicles.

Features/Benefits of ATE Super Blue Racing Brake Fluid:

Blue tint of fluid makes bleeding brakes easier
Ideal for race use, excellent choice for street driven vehicles, too
Boiling point minimum: 536 degrees F
Wet boiling point minimum: 388 degrees F
Viscosity at -104 degrees F: max 1,400 mm 2/5
Designed to last up to 3 years under normal highway driving conditions

[Bimmerman325i]

I've run Super Blue and Typ200 on all my cars on track and not. Great fluid, no-brainer. Just do it.

[F34R]

Valvoline's Synthetic
Dry Boiling Point - 480°F
Wet Boiling Point - 311°F

ATE Super Blue
Dry Boiling Point - 536°F
Wet Boiling Point - 396°F

Motul 600
Dry Boiling Point - 594°F
Wet Boiling Point - 421°F

AMSOIL 600
Dry Boiling Point - 580°F
Wet Boiling Point - 410°F

Factory DOT4 MINI (Standard DOT4 specs)
Dry Boiling Point - 446°F
Wet Boiling Point - 311°F

[F34R]

I've run Super Blue and Typ200 on all my cars on track and not. Great fluid, no-brainer. Just do it.

On the phone with my local speed shop =)

[bimmerteck]

I've used both kinds listed, 2 bottles were enough to flush and fill my car (also no abs).

I would rotate between the two to make flush/bleeding easier, as they are different in color.

For me Motul was easier to find and was cheaper than ATE Blue.

I've also used ATE Blue on one of my previous cars at THill and had no brake fade in 2.5 hours of hpde driving, just smoked all the oem caliper paint off in the first 25 minutes.

I quit using the super blue after a customer pointed out that it had stained his M's alpine white fender. He dripped a single drop while topping up his fluids and it left a faint blue line on the fender b/c he didn't notice until it had been on the paint for an hour or two. I figure if I run a full liter of the type 200 through once a year that plenty of fluid will be replaced for my street cars, on track vehicles I would do it more often depending on the amount of time spent on track.

[nando]

brake fluid of any kind is going to ruin paint. don't drip it anywhere, problem solved.

[F34R]

brake fluid of any kind is going to ruin paint. don't drip it anywhere, problem solved.

Yup, I don't see how people have issues with that

I have one for each type of fluid and one custom one I made for topping off my tranny fluid.

[bimmerteck]

brake fluid of any kind is going to ruin paint. don't drip it anywhere, problem solved.

Well yes all brake fluid is bad for paint but this was like attaching a neon sign saying "hey look this guy fancys himself a racer and can't fill his brake fluid without getting it on the paint!" I've personally only had it stain work shirts most often when I was bleeding clutches, I never really cared, but the shop owner wasn't really a fan since the uniform company charged for replacement of ruined uniforms. ;)

I've also seen it stain a brake fluid reservoir making it look more full at a glance than it actually was. (was not a stock BMW reservoir)

[nando]

all I'm saying is if you leave any kind of brake fluid on paint for a few hours, most likely it's going to strip it off.