Chump/lemons rotors

[jlevie]

On ATE calipers I've used both the brass bushings and the OE rubber bushings. I've not found the brass bushings to work any better than fresh OE bushings (which is what I use now). And the OE bushings don't require frequent cleaning and lubricating. On a race car I figure that full caliper rebuilds and new bushings should be done every third year, along with wheel stud replacements.

[Snowmann]

Side note.

What have others used and found to be the best lubricant on the ATE rubber bushing/steel pin?


I ran something different last season but it seemed to gum up/break down after only a few events.

[KenC]

We did three LeMons events on used OEM blanks we had turned, and PFC 06 pads all around. Pads still have 50% left and rotors still look great.

I rebuilt all of the Ate calipers with new bushings also. We could out-brake nearly every car on the track.

[jlevie]

Side note.

What have others used and found to be the best lubricant on the ATE rubber bushing/steel pin?

No lube is needed, nor should be used, for the ATE bushings and guide bolts.

[jandress]

I'm guessing this is a cross-post to the thread on ChumpCar?

We intended to run Centrix Cryo-treated for the Nelson's 25 hour, but after the wheel stud failure took out the left front rotor, we ended up running on Centrix 'premium' rotors, picked up from Rockauto for 25ish a piece.

Cobalt Friction XR2 front brake pads. No real ducting.

We had NO brake issues - nice smooth brakes entire race, with plenty of meat left in the pads.


If you are interested, I am a dealer for the Cobalts - ChumpCar teams get a nice discount on pads.


You might also want to look into your calipers a bit - if there is a lot of slop in the pins/bushing, or something is sticking/not releasing, it may be creating more heat or uneven wear and creating a warped condition. We put in the brass bushings / pins.

Yep, I'm same guy asking the same question on the Chump forum. To quote Schoolhouse Rock, "knowledge is power."
A little more digging through receipts last night and I found we are actually running the Carbotech Rp2's, not Hawks like I originally posted. We have a group of 4 different crap can whips that we have raced and I forgot what went on what, my bad.

Thanks for the bushing tip

Justin

[shoup]

Our team has done 5 Lemons races with the E30. I agree any rotors will work. Just make sure you use a fresh or turned rotors if you change pad compounds.

Brake Pads are a different story.
Started out with Hawk HP+ all around - I don't recommend them, they wore fast and didn't stop great.
Tried Hawk HT10s all around - improved braking, but went through the fronts with a few hours left in the race and had to change. Kept these on the rear
PFC 06 - ran a different track with these in front and the HT-10s in back, but after the race we had plenty of pad left and they felt great on track.

[n0m4d]

We run Advance Auto rotors with carbotech pads on our LeMon. 5 Races and we just got hard braking shakes at the end of our last race (Summit Point). We still have enough pad in the front for 1 more event and the rear pad / rotors will outlast our car. I think we will put new pads / rotors on anyway and keep the old ones as spares.

We put on a whole brake system including hard and soft lines calipers and rotors using a series of Advance Auto coupon codes for 40% off plus $50 off your next order. We were such nerds that we had a spreadsheet calculating how to maximize the coupons by splitting the order up between us.

[jandress]

I'm guessing this is a cross-post to the thread on ChumpCar?

We intended to run Centrix Cryo-treated for the Nelson's 25 hour, but after the wheel stud failure took out the left front rotor, we ended up running on Centrix 'premium' rotors, picked up from Rockauto for 25ish a piece.

Cobalt Friction XR2 front brake pads. No real ducting.

We had NO brake issues - nice smooth brakes entire race, with plenty of meat left in the pads.


If you are interested, I am a dealer for the Cobalts - ChumpCar teams get a nice discount on pads.


You might also want to look into your calipers a bit - if there is a lot of slop in the pins/bushing, or something is sticking/not releasing, it may be creating more heat or uneven wear and creating a warped condition. We put in the brass bushings / pins.

I ordered the brass bushings and pins from IE, but it can't quite figure out how to install them as the pins appear to be designed to screw directly into the caliper, which is not threaded.

After a little reading, I have Girling, not ATE calipers, DOH!!