I do love Hill Climbs!!! Its just something on a different level than being out on a track. I hope to be able to do Pikes Peak in the next 5 years. That would be the ultimate!
On another note, I'm sure you'll cover this when you get to it, but why did you only run 225's? With 400hp, I would have thought you might have gone bigger.
Pikes Peak Int. Hill Climb Turbo E30 Build
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No special sauce on the mls just a clean decked block and head, I did not control vanos, more on that when I get to that stuff.What did you do on the block/head surface to prep for the MLS? What O-ring mat'l did you use and what size? Any pics of the process?
Are you controlling Vanos with your Megasquirt? Care to share you wiring diagram?
I'll be following most of the same steps except in a e36 chassis.
Thanks,
MichonLeave a comment:
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Engine Time!
So the main guts of the engine are all stock.
Block is from a m50
rods/crank are from an m52(should have just got an m52 from the beginning)
stock oil pump just rebuilt
e34 m50 oil pan
First thing was to check out the pistons being as all this stuff was a junkyard special it needed some cleaning and I opted to do it myself instead of having the machine shop do it.
Nastyness


I tried all kindsa stuff to get this carbon build up off,
What I ended up using was this stuff
Berrymans Chem Dip

Works well and pretty fast. Smells kinda strange so use it outside or with a mask, and wear some gloves!
I would soak it for about 30 mins and clean off the stuff that loosened up and repeat.
I have seen that ATF works as well, might give it a shot next time and see what works best.
Got them all to look like this in a day.

It really helped to check for cracks and such

Next was the oil pump. The stock pump was fine for my needs, I just wanted to make sure it had been rebuilt. I didn't find too much info on all this but its pretty easy to do, I believe the bently or haynes manual tells you how to do it.
Im really glad that I chose to do this cause there was some build up off junk forming inside.
Heres a shot with it disassembled. I ended up replacing the spring, and the rubber o-ring on the plunger piece.

Just make sure there isn't too much wear on the rotating parts and all should be well.
Here are some part numbers from pelican parts.
Spring - 11-41-1-706-809-M9 (its used for a few things other than the oil pump)
o-ring - 11-41-1-722-837-BOE
some guys also replace the c clip that holds in the plunger and spring in the pump, I didn't but it wouldn't hurt. Sorry dont have the PN. Also I did the oil pump "saftey trick" by drilling through the oil pump nut when it was torqued to spec and wrapped a bit of stainless steel wire around it to make sure that nut cant come off.
Sent the block in to have it honed, decked and o-ringed.

I used copper, .041 can't remember depth off the top of my head. Gotta find my notebook.
Some cosmetic stuff.


arp's


If you get your block decked be sure to give the machine shop the timing chain cover as well, I didnt (another doh!) and had to improvise with a sheet of sandpaper taped to my floor and some elbow grease to take it down.

Parts! I ordered a good amount stuff from Autohausaz. The free shiping over 50 helps a bunch.
Got new main/rod bearings, rings, seals, timing chain, tensioner, oil pump chain, etc...

The Haynes manual has most all the clearance and torque specs that you need as well, the bently was pretty limited on this stuff.
Crank thrown in, just had it polished. Was all to spec as well. Make sure and have a helper to put it in.


The head had been recently worked on by a performance shop in Denver. This was the head from the s50, and the guy I had bought it from had replaced the valves with 1mm oversized ones, new springs and retainers as well as having it decked so I just checked the best I could and made sure it was as clean as I could get it.

.120 mls

Looking more like an engine :)

I stuck with the stock lifters, just decided to get the gunk out of them. I soaked them in some acetone or alcohol to try and loosen up the junk that builds up inside of them. After letting them sit I would squish them down and out would come crud, repeat until no more crud came back, then soaked them in oil and test them to make sure they were okay. found a few that needed to be replaced and found good ones from one of the heads from the junkyard. I still ended up with one lifter that was noisy, so next time the cams come off ill look for it.

Lifters back in :)

Cams back in, they are hollow so be careful taking them off and putting on. I didnt use the special tool, just try to find the sweet spot that isnt stressing the cam and tighten bolts slowly and not all on one side, etc.
I like to use redline synthetic assembly lube if your curious.

The haynes manual even has an instruction how to make a tool to hold your cams at the right position for the timing and vanos instal.

Clutch and flywheel f1racing stage 3 kit with a 10 lb flywheel and rated at 487hp and 435ft/lbs. Works well other than a little noisy when feathering while starting to move, I dont think its broken in yet.
I suggest getting a slave cylinder from an e36 325i instead of an m3 one as the bore is larger and works better with heavier clutches, so they say. Felt great to me :)

Engine awaiting car

Last edited by Zodow; 05-23-2019, 08:16 AM.Leave a comment:
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Subscribed. Looks good so far man. I wish I had the time and money to take on a project like this.
Also I see you are going with the Caswell approach with a $500 e30. Very nice. :up:
Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk 2Leave a comment:
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What did you do on the block/head surface to prep for the MLS? What O-ring mat'l did you use and what size? Any pics of the process?
Are you controlling Vanos with your Megasquirt? Care to share you wiring diagram?
I'll be following most of the same steps except in a e36 chassis.
Thanks,
MichonLast edited by thedean; 12-02-2012, 11:36 PM.Leave a comment:
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Holy god. This is unbelievable. I almost got my motor out today and I feel like that's making progress.
Next time I'm debating whether to go out to the garage, I'm going to check in here and get some motivation!Leave a comment:
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Thanks! Oh man the Evo crash looked pretty bad. Glad both guys survived. Also I love how calm and collected you look while you were sliding...I would have shit myself around those cliffsThanks! Its just an ebay special. Search for dual core aluminum e36 radiator and they have quite a few options. Worked well in 90+degree track weather for 10 min outings, It did start to get hot on the first run up the mountain though (I was stopped and turned around because of the bad evo crash so Im not sure if I would have overheated or not)Leave a comment:

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