As I get my RallyX e30 ready for this season, I have a few things that I want to do to the car to make it more appropriate for its use- which is (edit) event-only, no street use at all. (/edit)
I want to preface this by saying that I can't weld, so if the solution involves welding, please suggest a workaround. I can do woodworking and I have access to plastics and plexiglass-like mateirals (lexian, lucite, etc.), but I can't do metal fab.
1. Dash: I want to remove the dash but still have something to hold the gauges. For now, I have the stock cluster but I don't need to keep it (more on that below). Does anyone have suggestions for cheap DIY solutions to replace the dash? Or even pictures of their track car dash? I searched here but actually was shocked to not find pictures of track car dashes (I used the search term "dash"). I used google images and found some good examples, but I am always looking for new ideas.
Bonus: Pulling the dash will make a future cage install much easier.
2. The OEM cluster: Idiot/warning lights are on EVERYWHERE. How much can I do to get rid of the inspection, ABS, brake lining, etc. lights? I still want the tach and monitoring gauges to work, but I don't really care about the odometer, speedo, etc. How many of those bulbs can be removed by disassembling the cluster?
3. Dead pedal: I lost my dead pedal when I removed the carpet. What are people doing for a dead pedal in a stripped car?
4. Switches and controls: I can do basic wiring, and I want to get as many switches and controls off of the steering column and out of the OEM dash as possible and want ot get those things onto/into the "new" dash. Of particular interest are the wiper and washer controls and lighting, as I might actually use those. WHat (if anything) can be done to re-locate the wiper and washer controls to the dash? The washer is a momentary switch, so that should not be too tough. But the wipers have me stumped. I don't even need delay- just high & low "on" settings will be enough. The turn signals...notsomuch. I can leave the light controls in the curent location, but I actually broke the wiper stalk while trying to bend it away from my steering wheel for when I was racing.
5. HVAC: THe car does not have any A/C, but it does still have a heater core (but no blower motor). The car is NEVER street driven and the racing is primarily March-October. Frost and cold are not a huge concern. Should I yank the heater core? Harbor freight actually sells a small 12V defroster: http://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt...fan-96144.html For $10, I could put it in my tow vehicle and use it if I need it. (I keep a 12V outlet connected in the center console for my inflator.) What are the ramifications to the OEM cooling system if I take out the heater core?
6. Windows: Is there a way to make a multi-position switch and relay where a single window switch could control drivers window or all 4 windows at the same time while only using one actual switch in the dash? I was thinking that I could bypass the OEM circuit breaker (or buy a second one) and have the 12V power coming into a single switch, then the out could go to the OEM circuit breaker and then go to the up/down wires all of the windows. I just need to get a pin diagram on the window controls.
I have had suggestions to remove the electric windows, but I would rather use that money (the manual setup can be expensive) to buy other parts.
7. Central locking: Can the central locking be removed and all locks be converted to manual? Seems like a little thing, but one less thing to go wrong. And a little less wiring.
That is all for now. I will update the thread with other ideas or questions over time.
I want to preface this by saying that I can't weld, so if the solution involves welding, please suggest a workaround. I can do woodworking and I have access to plastics and plexiglass-like mateirals (lexian, lucite, etc.), but I can't do metal fab.
1. Dash: I want to remove the dash but still have something to hold the gauges. For now, I have the stock cluster but I don't need to keep it (more on that below). Does anyone have suggestions for cheap DIY solutions to replace the dash? Or even pictures of their track car dash? I searched here but actually was shocked to not find pictures of track car dashes (I used the search term "dash"). I used google images and found some good examples, but I am always looking for new ideas.
Bonus: Pulling the dash will make a future cage install much easier.
2. The OEM cluster: Idiot/warning lights are on EVERYWHERE. How much can I do to get rid of the inspection, ABS, brake lining, etc. lights? I still want the tach and monitoring gauges to work, but I don't really care about the odometer, speedo, etc. How many of those bulbs can be removed by disassembling the cluster?
3. Dead pedal: I lost my dead pedal when I removed the carpet. What are people doing for a dead pedal in a stripped car?
4. Switches and controls: I can do basic wiring, and I want to get as many switches and controls off of the steering column and out of the OEM dash as possible and want ot get those things onto/into the "new" dash. Of particular interest are the wiper and washer controls and lighting, as I might actually use those. WHat (if anything) can be done to re-locate the wiper and washer controls to the dash? The washer is a momentary switch, so that should not be too tough. But the wipers have me stumped. I don't even need delay- just high & low "on" settings will be enough. The turn signals...notsomuch. I can leave the light controls in the curent location, but I actually broke the wiper stalk while trying to bend it away from my steering wheel for when I was racing.
5. HVAC: THe car does not have any A/C, but it does still have a heater core (but no blower motor). The car is NEVER street driven and the racing is primarily March-October. Frost and cold are not a huge concern. Should I yank the heater core? Harbor freight actually sells a small 12V defroster: http://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt...fan-96144.html For $10, I could put it in my tow vehicle and use it if I need it. (I keep a 12V outlet connected in the center console for my inflator.) What are the ramifications to the OEM cooling system if I take out the heater core?
6. Windows: Is there a way to make a multi-position switch and relay where a single window switch could control drivers window or all 4 windows at the same time while only using one actual switch in the dash? I was thinking that I could bypass the OEM circuit breaker (or buy a second one) and have the 12V power coming into a single switch, then the out could go to the OEM circuit breaker and then go to the up/down wires all of the windows. I just need to get a pin diagram on the window controls.
I have had suggestions to remove the electric windows, but I would rather use that money (the manual setup can be expensive) to buy other parts.
7. Central locking: Can the central locking be removed and all locks be converted to manual? Seems like a little thing, but one less thing to go wrong. And a little less wiring.
That is all for now. I will update the thread with other ideas or questions over time.
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