Drift car wiring questions

[CrisMac]

Ok guys I have a few questions about wiring my OBDII S52 drift car.

My goal is to:

Delete the fuze box inside of the engine bay.
Delete ABS.
Delete Power Steering.
Delete Brake Booster.
Delete Gauge Cluster.

Pretty much delete anything that is not really needed.

I will be running the bare minimum and wiring in my own gauges

-Tach.
-Water temp.
-Oil Pressure.
-Voltage.

Is this possible with one of these?

I would like to wire the engine harness straight into a fuze relay board, rather then sending my harness out to get modified to connect to the stock fuze box.

ARC Flat Touch Switch Panels 8000R


I will be assigning each switch as follows

-Iginition
-Starter
-Headlights
-Aux Fan
-Windshield wipers
-?
-?
-?

Cant think of anything else at the moment. Some input on what should go on the switches from someone who has wired something similar would be awesome.


The main goal is to delete the fuze box under the hood and relocate an aftermarket setup inside of the vehicle while keeping the bare minimums for the car to run.

I love criticism, so don't hold back. got to learn from experiences.

thanks gents!

[JMPAuto]

I run this setup on my e30 s52 obd2 swap race car. I removed the entire factory chassis wiring harness and rewired the whole car. I only wired whatever is need to get the car running. I'm also running Epic obd2 race tune.

[mitchlikesbikes]

just FYI i'm pretty sure there are 0 wires related to PS. so just yank the hardware and call it good

[CrisMac]

I run this setup on my e30 s52 obd2 swap race car. I removed the entire factory chassis wiring harness and rewired the whole car. I only wired whatever is need to get the car running. I'm also running Epic obd2 race tune.

How did this work for you? fairly simple? My main question would be about the engine harness, did you just chop the C101 off, and wire straight into a switch panel/fuse and relay box?

just FYI i'm pretty sure there are 0 wires related to PS. so just yank the hardware and call it good

Ya sorry I was just ranting on what I'm doing haha

[Texas Toast]

I would keep the power steering, just saying. I've driven with it and without it, having it definitely makes transitions and steering input a lot easier!

[henryki]

I would keep the power steering, just saying. I've driven with it and without it, having it definitely makes transitions and steering input a lot easier!

+1

I have no power steering on my daily (pump was bad and dgaf'd it and just pulled it out because the S.O.B. was leaking everywhere) and trying to dick around in that and put it sideways can be difficult and doesn't look nearly as smooth as it could if I had power steering. my

[FLG]

Agree with the above statements.

To add my own, why bother do all this work?

Dont get me wrong ive thought about this on my car, its rarely street driven other then driving to and from events, but then i just say..whats the point? I understand shaving weight on a track car is critical because every second counts, i just dont see the benefit as much on a drift car. Granted there is a balance of course, and being light does help...but i cant see it being AS much of an impact on things.

Assuming your car is working fine as is with no electrical issues, why bother with the hours of work and money this is gonna take only to eliminate some of the non essential wiring, the question for me is, in the end how will it positively impact your driving?

Im not knocking anything and i think if i had the extra time and spare cash id probably do this myself. But i feel if you can take this time and money and put it towards something more beneficial, i would go that route. If everything else is kosher and this is just an add on, then more power to ya.

[nando]

I would like to wire the engine harness straight into a fuze relay board, rather then sending my harness out to get modified to connect to the stock fuze box.

what's a fuze?

you're going to spend hundreds of dollars and hours and hours of time so you can avoid spending ~$200 on re-pinning your harness to plug into the body? huh?

[JMPAuto]

[quote=CrisMac;4037908]How did this work for you? fairly simple? My main question would be about the engine harness, did you just chop the C101 off, and wire straight into a switch panel/fuse and relay box?

It's not that hard as long as you know wiring pretty good. If you have never wired a car before then I would not suggest doing this. You could burn your car wiring it wrong especially starting from scratch.

Familiarized yourself with the e30 and s52 wiring diagram and go from there. Do some research online on how race cars get wired and you'll get the idea.

[Wanganstyle]

We used Longacre racing products wiring for tail lamps and for fuel pump power.
Longacre racing kill / push button start.

Made a fuse pannel and switch junction pannel for toggles.

we have only a few switches; most important one is the battery KILL. Any wheel to wheel racing will require a Kill; read on sanctioning body rules for the specifics.

I'm not sure drifting counts as wheel to wheel "racing" but there is contact - I would install a Kill.



No fusebox under the hood; it had some melted circuits from a O2 harness burning on dp and had to go.

"m50" engine harness is 100% intact; X20 has 2 wires connected going into the body

Battery put in sealed marine box and relocated to passenger seat area.

Is it more reliable than stock? Not in rain.

[CrisMac]

I would keep the power steering, just saying. I've driven with it and without it, having it definitely makes transitions and steering input a lot easier!

Nice, I will take into account when I'm putting everything back together. Iv slid around without power steering before, but not in a E30. I would assume since Im completely gutted, one seat, Tubular front end and with s52 swap It shouldn't be so bad. but then again I haven't driven it yet. Ill keep it around just in case.

Agree with the above statements.

To add my own, why bother do all this work?

Dont get me wrong ive thought about this on my car, its rarely street driven other then driving to and from events, but then i just say..whats the point? I understand shaving weight on a track car is critical because every second counts, i just dont see the benefit as much on a drift car. Granted there is a balance of course, and being light does help...but i cant see it being AS much of an impact on things.

Assuming your car is working fine as is with no electrical issues, why bother with the hours of work and money this is gonna take only to eliminate some of the non essential wiring, the question for me is, in the end how will it positively impact your driving?

Im not knocking anything and i think if i had the extra time and spare cash id probably do this myself. But i feel if you can take this time and money and put it towards something more beneficial, i would go that route. If everything else is kosher and this is just an add on, then more power to ya.

Very good points man. The only reason I am thinking about rewiring and deleting the entire old fuze box is because I have not begun to wire the motor up to the car yet.

I also feel that sine wiring/electrical is one of my weak points when it comes to cars this is the perfect time to actually LEARN. ( Not without supervision from my brother who is a genius with electrical in vehicles, I won't be just dead in the water).

This project is for ease of access, Knowledge of wiring/electrical attributes, and simplicity in design and routing. Im not concerned about weight, saving time or money. Knowledge isn't always free, and this is my opportunity to learn from a good stand point so I'm going for it.

what's a fuze?

you're going to spend hundreds of dollars and hours and hours of time so you can avoid spending ~$200 on re-pinning your harness to plug into the body? huh?

I always say "get what you want, so you don't regret what you got"

I want to do this, I understand the cost, and the time it takes. Isn't that the whole reason we love cars anyways? Spend all of our time and money on our projects just for 5 minutes of fun then do it all over again when it breaks?

"Build. Break. Destroy" is my motto.

[JFarhanbod]

I'm doing the same thing in my e24 but I'm keeping a couple more things. I'm going with the EZ Wiring kit. At < $200 its a no brainer.

Only thing that has me hung up is the c101 connector, do i just wire the fuel pump, starter, alt and ignition wires to the new harness? Is that enough to get it running properly? Then pull the tach signal and run it to an aftermarket tach

Plans are to switch to megasquirt once i go turbo but i would like to get it running on the stock dme first

[unloadedak]

I've been preparing and planning how to use that exact panel in my obd1 s52 track build.

Here is my idea so far:

1. Starter
2. Ignition
3. Fuel
4. Fuel (if i run oem tank setup with dual, won't need this if fuel cell)
5. Fan
6. Headlights
7. Wiper
8.

Issues I can think of in my situation;

Turn signals: Looking through the ETM I think I can make the oem signal stalk and relay work.

Fuel level: Finding aftermarket fuel gauge in our ohm range is impossible, so i'm thinking fuel cell since my trunk already has a big square cut out.

Brake lights: Will wire em up using the oem harness and pedal switch, just supply 12v to it from a distribution block with switched 12v.

subbed for more info, i've never bare wired a racecar and only info i can find online is like camaro and gm guys.

[FLG]

Trunk is a bad spot for a cell for 2 reasons..

Your gonna get fuel slosh and upset balance.

The trunk is a crumple zone, without a lot of reinforcement it's simply not safe. It's been proven time and time again the stock location for the tank is the best.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2

[unloadedak]

Trunk is a bad spot for a cell for 2 reasons..

Your gonna get fuel slosh and upset balance.

The trunk is a crumple zone, without a lot of reinforcement it's simply not safe. It's been proven time and time again the stock location for the tank is the best.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2

Exactly why I don't want to run a cell.....

Any ideas on how to know how much fuel I have in my tank without an oem gauge?

I want to keep oem tank but don't want to have the hassle of never knowing what is in it.