Rear mount radiator

[Northern]

Use your C pillars for scoops

This sounds awesome if you could integrate the scoops into where the sail panels are on the C-pillars. It might even look decent.


This dual rad idea sounds really complex/unnecessary compared to a single rad with a big fan on it that could kick in under a certain speed, or at a specific temp or whatever.

Or (not that I know your setup) look into a bigger/better fitting rad in the OEM position, and/or big oil cooler.

Having all the piping, connectors, extra coolant volume, stronger pump, all the ducting and fab work just seems like a big pain in the ass for something that maybe shouldn't be an issue in the first place.

[jalopi]

@ aleman - sweet sw. I personally think the tom's scoops look good on sw's, though I think they're only one of a select few cars that could pull it off. not so sure how it'd (or something similar) look on an e30

as far as my setup goes, I had a zirgo "3000 cfm" fan and a z3m mishimoto radiator. ford 302 with aftermarket heads, F cam and carb intake. full roller. no oil cooler (yet). standard CC pistons. running about 10* of timing. runs a stoich of 11-15 depending on load/rpm and lateral g's. probably 300ish wheel.

never overheats or gets past 210* on the street, even with "spirited driving" in the summer. only time i've had issues with heat is at the track, making 30-60 second runs where i'm anywhere between 70-100% throttle the whole time, multiple times in a row with only a minute or so break between runs.

the last event i was at i (as well as most other people) could only make 2 runs in a row in the 90+*, 60%+ humidity weather before having to take a 10-15 minute cooldown break (temps would spike up to 230-240ish). i never want to hit those kinds of temps again, that shit is sketchy as fuck. i wanna be able to do 2 runs, take a couple minute break, then go back and do it all again.

i've tried EVERYTHING i can think of - i put a vent in the hood right in front of the radiator, raised the hood an inch in the rear, biggest rad possible, replaced all underdrive pulleys with standard size pulleys, blocked off other entry points for air to get into the engine bay (in the hopes of forcing it through the rad) and nothing has worked. my shitty zirgo fan took a shit a few days ago, have a spal coming in in a few days. maybe that'll help along with an oil cooler, though i have my doubts. all i know is that it can only get worse once i add the turbo

[TheTacoMan]

I would look into some other cars maybe to see what they are doing to cool their 302 regardless of what car it is. Im sure you have probably read this already, http://diyford.com/ford-small-block-...ooling-system/

[e30_302]

i've tried EVERYTHING i can think of - i put a vent in the hood right in front of the radiator, raised the hood an inch in the rear, biggest rad possible, replaced all underdrive pulleys with standard size pulleys, blocked off other entry points for air to get into the engine bay (in the hopes of forcing it through the rad) and nothing has worked.

-Vent needs to go behind the radiator, towards the driver. Maybe that's what you meant.
-Put the hood back down, the base of the windshield is a high pressure area. Air will get pushed back into the engine bay at higher speeds.
-Try to duct air directly to the radiator. Use sheet aluminum or abs plastic and some temp-rated tape to seal it up. You want to give air no chance to go around the core, or it will.

I assume you have the correct rotation water pump, and does it match your timing cover? Are you using a thermostat? I drilled a couple bleed holes in mine to help bleeding.

It's strange how we're both running a very similar combo, and have such different results. I was watching some video last night of my last track day at VIR over the summer (95*/80%) and you could watch the thermostat open & close on the water temp gauge. Would get to its rated 195* and drop down to 180, rinse and repeat.

Have you tried any sort of chemical cooling system flush? Maybe you have a bunch of scale/rust in the block. I was amazed at the crap that came out of mine. I also use Water Wetter because we have to run straight water.

[jalopi]

Lol yeah, the vent I made is "in front" of the radiator in the sense that it's immediately "after" it. if you look down the vent slit closest to the roundel you can see the edge of the radiator. vent is about 6 inches away from the roundel i'd say.

pretty sure I'm using the right water pump; I ordered one for a 91 mustang anyway

currently have a milodon 160* thermostat; if i ever have it out again imma change it to a 180*. maybe drilling holes will help, i'll probably try it

question for you though.... what kind of intake are you using? reason i ask is that mine has a rear crossover for the coolant. one of my coworkers told me a while back when i originally finished the swap and was having problems that the crossover could be the issue (apparently they weren't meant to have crossovers or something). does yours have a crossover in the back?

@ taco thanks for the link bro. never read that, though most of that info seems to apply towards older 302's. the new mustang stuff is all reverse rotation & short, aluminum pumps. not sure if the one i bought is 'high flow' or not though... pretty sure it was advertised that way, though it was a cheapo summitracing jobbie and i figured it's all just bs. or is it?

[e30_302]

Weiand Stealth, no rear crossover.

Try a 195* t'stat, that's what factory is (193 I think). With a 160 it'll never close- which is debatable as to whether that matters or not, but I subscribe to the theory it does.

[Cephas]

I wonder if the water pump is up to the task of dual radiators and all the piping?

My thoughts exactly. I have no idea what the flow rates are of a stock pump, but it seems like adding all that extra coolant/space to flow it to and from could result is worse cooling rather than better. I'm no mechanical engineer though...

[IronFreak]

All your answer are inside.......

[jalopi]

The link doesn't work

[IronFreak]

Andy Hately's FD car....

http://www.iemotorsport.com/gallery/v/car-of-month/January+2014+-+Andy+Hateley+-+Formula+D+E30+325i/

He was kind enough to post lots of detailed shots
http://s149.photobucket.com/user/Shm...?sort=3&page=9

^^This or look up LMR drift alliance e30. The have a pretty sick setup.

[jalopi]

Gotcha. Doesn't really matter any more since I'm ditching the e30 & going to an e36, thanks for the link/info though

[IronFreak]

how did I miss that haaha. no problem. clean rust free 98m shell for sale here in omaha.

[jalopi]

thanks for the offer, but that's a bit of a hike for me, lol

besides, non-m 6cyl coupes in OK shape can be found all day at auction here for less than a grand. all i need is M trailing arms, brakes, hub, reinforce trailing arm mount area, 750i diff, bracket for diff, dss axles and i'll have the most solid rear setup possible, save for converting to a ford 9" or something

[IronFreak]

bah.....if I went solid it would be a speedway quickchange.

[jalopi]

fair enough. don't they also make an IRS version of the quickchange?